Oil Warranty Requirements for 2010 Subaru STi

[carb850]

I just brought home a 2010 STi and have about 80 miles on it so far. Anyhow, I'm wondering how I should proceed with the oil. The dealer was telling me that Subaru is a stickler for OCI in the STi in cases of warranty work. Subaru awhile back revamped the intervals on Turbo engines. So the manual calls for 4 months or 3750miles.

I have a short commute so I will likely hit the time before I hit the mileage requirements. So, should I go with a synthetic oil even though it will be changed at 4 months, which means it could have as little as 2K miles? If not, if I stick with dino oil, do I need to worry about it breaking down under the heat and stress of the turbo if driven hard (even with a low miles)?

 

[d00df00d]

I think you can trust Subaru to spec an oil that'll stand up to the turbo. The factory oil is probably just fine.

That said, a synthetic that meets the proper specs certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

[The Critic]

An extra $15 every four months for synthetic oil should not break anyone's bank.

5 qt of conventional oil already costs $13. Even the new Pennzoil Ultra is only $28 for a 5 qt jug.

On a turbocharged gasoline engine, use a premium synthetic oil. Period.

 

[Lead Shoes]

If you put the money into a new 2010 Subaru STI, I'm sure you have the extra 30 dollars for Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, or another premium synthetic oil in your yearly budget somewhere.

You already did it right once and bought a fresh vehicle, so you might as well continue with a string of correct choices, starting with the oil...

 

[Steve S]

Does Subaru recommend or require syn oil ?

 

[virtual]

just ask them what brand of oil they carry they mostly carry other brand to,as long you car is under warranty i would do at least 1 on 2 oil change at the dealer,it make warranty work more easy.

 

[Captain_Klink]

even though the manual doesn't say, i would only use synthetic in a turbo charged engine, and be sure to let it idle for 30 sec before extinguishing the engine, to help the turbo cool down in order to avoid cooking the oil. Consumer Reports gives the used turbo a bad rating, probably because people are careless with it. Subaru otherwise, overall carries the highest Consumer Report rating. This is a very fine machine.

 

[iunderpressure]

I have an older(96) Volvo with a turbo, and the engine seems cleaner after using Redline. I'm really impressed with it. You don't have to use Redline, but I would use a high quality synthetic.

 

[virtual]

Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
even though the manual doesn't say, i would only use synthetic in a turbo charged engine, and be sure to let it idle for 30 sec before extinguishing the engine, to help the turbo cool down in order to avoid cooking the oil. Consumer Reports gives the used turbo a bad rating, probably because people are careless with it. Subaru otherwise, overall carries the highest Consumer Report rating. This is a very fine machine.

My landlord have an old sti imported from japan ,now 180 000 k everything working top notch he just did rebuilt the turbo in case,like you said ,oowner are the problems, lots of kids think they are Jacque villneuve when they drive their car,always broken and its never their fault . And if you are in the military thanks for your service ,your help is highly apreciated.

 

[crinkles]

Originally Posted By: virtual
..., lots of kids think they are Jacque villneuve ...


spoken like a true canadienne!!

 

[sicko]

Check the manual, I thought it was 6mo/3750mi but I could easily be mistaken

 

[gathermewool]

I have an '08 STI - same car. The dealer near me uses Cheap, bulk Cam2. One of my first oil changes was this since they owed me a free oil change, and the used oil analysis looked fine after 3022 miles, though TBN was nearly depleted at 2.6.

Subaru changed all TC cars in their line up to the severe service oil change interval of 3750 because of issues with a turbo oil supply screen that was clogging, causing turbo failures. With all of the opinions online, it's tough to get the right answer, but, from what I've read, the screen has been removed from (at least) the '08 STI.

The dual AVCS (valve control) feed also has an oil screen that can clog, though this won't hurt the engine, and I think there's a MIL code associate with AVCS malfunctions, IIRC.

I don't agree that TC cars require synthetics. A synthetic may degrade more slowly due to the higher temps, but that's not to say, IMO, that an oil like PYB can't hold up to the Subaru-recommended OCI of 3750 just fine. I think the requirement for synthetic - NOT Subarus requirement or recommendation, btw - has always been propogated by those who don't know much about oil. If you hear it from enough of your buddies you assume it's true. I'm not saying any of the above posters know nothing about oil, but hose who have told me I HAVE to run Redline or Royal Purple at the hobby shop sure didnt.

As far as cool down times, this is always a good idea, tough Subaru does not require you to cool down the car. The turbo is oil and water cooled, and the water will continue to flow through natural circulation even after you shut the car down. I rarely go from hard charging to fully stopped, ready to shut the car down, and I'm not sure when this type of drivng would take place for a normal commute. Unless you rally the car or perform and endurance run, the minute or so that we usually drive in 25MPH in the neighborhood or in the parking lot at work gives the engine plenty of time to cool down. Despite what I just typed, I do tend to let it "cool down" for 10-20 seconds if I drive moderately and park at the store, even though it took me a minute to find a spot. Force of habit, I guess.

Cool down times and oil are like anything else - most will just do what they feel comfortable with, and most STI owners spend tons of money on oil at 3kmi or less OCI because, "why would you NOT do that with such a highstrung 4-banger?" I change my oil based on UOA, and so far that's up to 7k using Rotella T6. I have 19,500 miles so far.

 

[Bluestream]

I would use a good conventional oil and change at every 3000 miles

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: crinkles
Originally Posted By: virtual
..., lots of kids think they are Jacque villneuve ...


spoken like a true canadienne!!

he, he, he..

Lots of Adults think they are Jacques Villeneuve...

 

[ARCOgraphite]

M1 0w-40 or redline or Motul X-Max 5w-30 ester. If you put a GF4 5w-30 conventional in that "race tuned" engine say bye-bye. Our 165HP N/A 2.5 wont tolerate 5w-30. I would also be looking for a better oil filter than the dinky fram that is OEM service replacemnt now. A good start would be the early RX8/RX7 japanese filter from MAZDA or a wix 51356 (not 51365). Haunt the WRX forums.

 

[JAG]

My experience with my 09 STI engine is that it is really stresses oil's ability to not leave deposits. I've used only synthetic oils and changed at 3750 miles or less and the oil fill tube still has developed hard deposits. It's not possible to look inside the engine without taking it apart so I don't know how that's looking.
My relevant thread

 

[carb850]

Thanks for the replys everyone. I traded in a 2004 WRX and had 74K trouble free miles. I was using GC @ 5K mile intervals.

My situation is different now hence the question. I'm short tripping more and I'm trying to keep the warranty police happy. I have no problems using a quality synthetic at the required 4 months (appox 1500 miles) if it helped but at the same time if a quality dino oil held up just as well why waste the money.

I'm an oil newb but I thought I have read that dino oil is actually 'slicker' when new. That it's issue is it breaks down while the synthetic holds up better. Since it holds up so much better you can extend the OCI a lot. My hands are tied at 4 months on the OCI.

 

[ScoobySTeveD]

Although the Wix 51356 has more filtering area, I'd hesitate to switch to it since it is not the OE size, and our Subaru's are known for spun bearings. Don't give them excuses.

If you want to be serviced by the dealer for warranty maintenance, buy any decent GF4 synthetic and bring it in to them at oil change time to keep costs down instead of paying for synthetic at the dealer. If the US dealers are using Fram, then yes I'd also recommend bringing a Napa Gold or Wix 51365.

If you're going to compete with that motor or do lapping days, Amsoil AMO 10W40 does great in there though it's not GF4.

 

[skypants]

I own a 2004 WRX stage 2. I used RP when is was $5/qt. But just changed to Shell Rotella T 5-40 syhthetic. $20/gal and has reduced the piston slap a little. I also use over sized oil filters. Burning though my last few K&N hp1010 and will switch over to Pure one PL141610 which is 50% larger than the OEM filter. When I add 5qts of oil it is only slightly over filled.

 

[gathermewool]

The new blue filter is not as heavy-duty-feeling as the older Tokyo Roki, but it's still good in my book. More importantly, it has the proper, subaru-spec'd bypass setting.

The spun bearings and #4 ringland failures don't seem to be oil-related, so I wouldn't assume either failure mode would preclude a warranty rebuild/replacement.

If my motor or turbo dies or if some one can prove to me that an oil that shows as perfect via UOA could still cause sludge build up or failures I'll shorten my OCI. Until then, I'll keep to 7kmi+ OCI, even in warranty, using T6.