Oil Recommendations for turbo 2.4 dohc

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Yea, I'd go with any A3 rated 5w-40/0w-40. Even Rotella 5w-40 would be a good choice. Those should offer better high temp protection over the OEM recomended weights.
 
Mobil 1 10W-30EP might be a good choice. It's not cold here now so no worries. Probably better for a Tennessee Turbo than the 5W-30 as it has a bit better NOACK and is a bit more shear stable.

Depending on warranty considerations: GC (Castrol Syntec 0W-30) or Amsoil ATM 10W-30 would likely be good over the long haul.

Wal-Mart has Quaker State Synthetic discounted to $2.50 here in 10W-30. Check Wally's discount shelf for it.

I'd pick the M1 10W-30 EP myself over the 0W-40.
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[ March 08, 2005, 02:02 PM: Message edited by: haley10 ]
 
I agree with Drew; Mobil1 0w40, which is on the low end of the 40-wt scale, is a great oil for most turbo motors. It's a bit more robust than M1 5w30 while degrading fuel economy only slightly. Made-in-Germany Castrol Syntec 0w30, available at AutoZone, is another excellent choice. It's what I use in my Audi.
 
I appreciate all the info folks. I didnt mean for my post to infer that I wanted to change from M1 5w30. It's just that I want to keep this motor going as long as possible and just because i'm using a good oil doesnt mean there isnt a better one out there. That being said, it looks like I will have to keep my eyes out for some 0w40.

Thanks Again,

Don
 
Don, 0W-40 will be fine.
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Dont' discount my advice on the 10W-30 EP, though. Consider it.
 
I am one of the newer members, but I don't seem to mind posting
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I disagree with most of the opinions offered above. I had this basic question come up with my '99 SAAB 9-3 (turbocharged 2-liter). It had 185hp stock, and I had Abbott Racing flash the computer to 250hp (I also changed the Intercooler to a very slightly larger/more efficient one).

I talked to Dave at RedLine a fair amount about the issue because I didn't want to make a poor choice and thereby destroy the engine prematurely.

He said that the higher viscosity would only increase turbo lag and internal engine drag but would not likely increase durability/longevity.

One thing he pointed out that I was not aware of is the fact that there is relatively little shear in a turbo bearing. I believe that is because, even though the turbine might see 140,000 rpm in that SAAB, there is relatively little load.

Plus, automotive turbo bearings are nearly all water cooled these days, so coking problems of the past are MASSIVELY reduced, as is oil heating/thinning in that bearing.

So, I would not use an xW-40 oil. I would stick with what you have, or if you think you need/want more protection from heat and/or you want the ACEA A3/B3/B4 HTHS protection, I would go with RedLine 5W-30 or 10W-30.

$0.02
 
quote:

Originally posted by bulwnkl:
I am one of the newer members, but I don't seem to mind posting
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I disagree with most of the opinions offered above. I had this basic question come up with my '99 SAAB 9-3 (turbocharged 2-liter). It had 185hp stock, and I had Abbott Racing flash the computer to 250hp (I also changed the Intercooler to a very slightly larger/more efficient one).

I talked to Dave at RedLine a fair amount about the issue because I didn't want to make a poor choice and thereby destroy the engine prematurely.

He said that the higher viscosity would only increase turbo lag and internal engine drag but would not likely increase durability/longevity.

One thing he pointed out that I was not aware of is the fact that there is relatively little shear in a turbo bearing. I believe that is because, even though the turbine might see 140,000 rpm in that SAAB, there is relatively little load.

Plus, automotive turbo bearings are nearly all water cooled these days, so coking problems of the past are MASSIVELY reduced, as is oil heating/thinning in that bearing.

So, I would not use an xW-40 oil. I would stick with what you have, or if you think you need/want more protection from heat and/or you want the ACEA A3/B3/B4 HTHS protection, I would go with RedLine 5W-30 or 10W-30.

$0.02


I agree 100%. Turbo lag is a possible issue and hence a robust 30 wt. is why I said what I did. Spot on!!
 
Thanks for the post and new member or not..all opinons/info is welcome. The SRT-4's are similar in that they have dedicated oil feed/return lines but unless i'm mistaken (which has happened
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) they use water lines to help cool the oil, similar in concept to how Ford uses engine coolant to cool the oil in the P71 Crown Vics and older SSP Mustangs. The shear in the turbo bearings might not be of concern but i'm still paranoid about how much heat this thing puts out and I cant believe there would be that much of a difference in turbo lag just from using 0w40 in lieu of 5w30. One thing I failed to mention is that I will soon have the Mopar stage 2 kit on the car which will push the stock turbo to the limit (approx. 265 hp at the wheels) and as HP increases i'm sure heat and wear does also. Does this affect anyone's recommendations? I have always heard good things about amsoil, royal purple and red line but has anyone ever proven that one is better than another for a given application?

I appreciate all the great info folks. Free knowledge is always good.

Thanks,

Don
 
Use what the owner manual recommends since its under warranty?

I own a turbo WRX and maybe live on the edge but use Mobil Dino drive clean every 4k-5k miles. However the time interval is 2 months over these miles due to a pure highway long commute.

I let you guys know when the turbo blows up if ever. I think the whole oil coking issue was from the days when turbo's were only oil cooled and motor oils were not up to today's specs.
 
I have a 2004 dodge SRT-4 that has a 2.4 dohc turbo. It has just under 12K miles and to date I have been using only Mobil 1 5w30. I guess everyone has seen the ads for the new quaker state oils (high rpm...4x4, etc..)and was curious as to what everyone thinks about the new oils and what you might recommend as far as oil for my car. I had someone recommend Mobil 1 0w40 and have heard good things about it but wanted to check opinions here first.

Thanks in advance,

Don
 
I think the mobil 0w-40 would be your best bet but I don't have a turbo so maybe turbo owners will check in. It has the A3 and long life ratings I think you would want with a turbo.
 
quote:

Originally posted by rjundi:
I own a turbo WRX and maybe live on the edge but use Mobil Dino drive clean every 4k-5k miles. However the time interval is 2 months over these miles due to a pure highway long commute.

You might want to take a look at my Drive Clean UOA (from my '05 STi) which also links to Tim's UOA of the same oil in his STi. This oil appears to shear out of grade a bit too easily (IMHO).

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002305#000000
 
I have a 03 2.4 Turbo in my PT GT, also have 5 other Turbo Dodges.

I use Amsoil 0w-30. You would never know any difference in turbo lag due to the viscosity of the oil you choose. MObile1 5W-30 is fine too. I have used the Amsoil in all my other cars and have never had any issues with the engines or turbos.

If you still have the stock PCM, and replace it with the Stg2(get the toys and the HOM) you will notice a big difference in the boost schedule in 1st gear.

A friend did a stg 3 install on an 03 SRT4. The kit has the bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump, WGA etc. I believe he got 309HP and 340ft-lbs at the wheels on pump gas and on HOM with race gas got 348 HP and 374ft-lbs at the wheels on a dynojet. Very impressive. If you figure 18% driveline losss your pushing 420Hp and 450 tq on HOM at the flywheel with a bolt on kit.

I have the stg 1 and got 227WHP and 252 Wft-lbs in the PT on a dyno jet. Lots of fun blowing away ricers in their poser cars with the PT
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The 2.4 looks like a nice motor.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Don Workman:
...One thing I failed to mention is that I will soon have the Mopar stage 2 kit on the car which will push the stock turbo to the limit (approx. 265 hp at the wheels) and as HP increases i'm sure heat and wear does also. Does this affect anyone's recommendations?...

It does not affect mine. That's very, very similar to the position I was in and I chose RedLine 10W30. I would chose it again.

It is true that most are not likely to particularly notice the lag difference between xW30 and xW40, but it is also true that most will not likely notice a difference in longevity with most any of the oils it sounds like you're likely to choose.

We (well, I anyway) often lose sight of the fact that even though our cars can make a lot of power, they are doing so very little of the time. Unless the car is just for track duty; If that is the case I recommend a single-grade racing oil.

Clearly, you should choose what makes you comfortable. I do not think anyone can prove according to the scientific method that any of the oils you mentioned are better than the others.
 
You want the lowest viscocity oil that is A3/B3 certified if you really want protection. Remember, and engine is just a giant air pump that is designed to pump air as efficient as possible. You want something that will give you the best cold start up protection for obvious mechanical issues and the least amount of drag on the engine as possible while maintaining a protective barrier of oil between bearings. If you run the dry lake beds in the desert maybe you might consider higher protection over efficiency, but everyday driving, including all those in AZ that drive in the summer, you want efficiency. Isn't the object of everyone asking advise for the benefit of keeping their engines running the long as possible? The more efficient the engine runs, the longer it lasts. Go find an oil like the GC or anything xw-30 that is A3/B3 certifed and you are WELL protected and helping your engine the best as possible.
 
Don, While M1 0W40 is not going to hurt anyting I doubt it is going to be the best choice for your car!! M1 0W40 really is not shear stable and quickly becomes a 0W30 in most engines! You turbo charged engine will probably shear it to pieces in no time flat! M1 10W30 EP or M1 TSUV 5W40, or Delvac-1 would all be better canidates in my opion! Even though I am recomending M1EP based on what we do know about it and M1's past track record I would stick to the recomended OEM OCI on a forced induction engine until you had enough UOA to justify moveing it out past the recomended OCI!!


P.S. Don, I think this car is a great canidate for the 50/50 mix of M1 5W30 and M1 15W50! This would give you a nice 40Wt. oil with a good aditive package. It has been time tested in hard driven Corvettes!
 
quote:

Originally posted by VNT:
A friend did a stg 3 install on an 03 SRT4. The kit has the bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump, WGA etc. I believe he got 309HP and 340ft-lbs at the wheels on pump gas and on HOM with race gas got 348 HP and 374ft-lbs at the wheels on a dynojet. Very impressive. If you figure 18% driveline losss your pushing 420Hp and 450 tq on HOM at the flywheel with a bolt on kit.

Impressive numbers, I hope your friend upgraded to a Quaife diff as well otherwise those 309HP are going up in tire smoke!
 
Don,

I'd recommend the new Mobil 1, 10w-30, EP formulation as the best choice in their product line for any small turbo engine....

If you weren't satisfied with the results you see with the 10w-30, I'd run Delvac 1, 5w-40. It's a shear stable, mid-range 40wt oil....

JB,

Enough with all the exclamation points already - I get stressed out just reading you posts!!!!!!!!!!
See what I mean?

TS
 
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