I've been a fan of Castrol Edge 0W-40 with an OCI of under 5K miles and a good Fram Ultra filter. OP, enjoy the heck out of the car!
Can't go wrong with that.
Can't go wrong with that.
Oil for new 18 Stinger GT
- Thread starter Spdfrk1990
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Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
The manual says you can use 5w40 or 5w30 in the TTV6. I was thinking about going with the thicker 5W40 but not sure which brand to go with. Plan to do the first change around 1k miles. I liked the 0w40 castrol I used in my Subaru but I dont like to stray from what is in the manual.
No! This is a GDI engine. A full-SAPS ACEA A3/B4 oil like a 0W-40 and most 5W-40's will result in intake-valve deposits and possibly LSPI.
Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
Originally Posted by Ruturaj
Joining the conversation as owner of 2019 Kia Stinger
If weather permits,
Wouldn't 10w30 be better over (0/5)w(30/40) in terms of VII's, Noack volatility, and shear stability?
Edit: Also oil evaporation and carbon build up.
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
The manual says you can use 5w40 or 5w30 in the TTV6. I was thinking about going with the thicker 5W40 but not sure which brand to go with. Plan to do the first change around 1k miles. I liked the 0w40 castrol I used in my Subaru but I dont like to stray from what is in the manual.
No! This is a GDI engine. A full-SAPS ACEA A3/B4 oil like a 0W-40 and most 5W-40's will result in intake-valve deposits and possibly LSPI.
Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
Originally Posted by Ruturaj
Joining the conversation as owner of 2019 Kia Stinger
If weather permits,
Wouldn't 10w30 be better over (0/5)w(30/40) in terms of VII's, Noack volatility, and shear stability?
Edit: Also oil evaporation and carbon build up.
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time. According to M1 the 0w40 is designed to work well with newer DIT engines. Copied this from their website.
Applications
Thanks to extensive cooperative development work with major manufacturers and the application of the latest lubrication technology, Mobil 1 0W-40 is recommended for many types of modern vehicles where it will help provide unsurpassed performance even under very demanding driving conditions.
Latest engine technologies including Turbo-chargers, Direct Injection, Diesels (without DPF) and Hybrids
High performance engines
Most operating conditions, from mild to extreme
Applications
Thanks to extensive cooperative development work with major manufacturers and the application of the latest lubrication technology, Mobil 1 0W-40 is recommended for many types of modern vehicles where it will help provide unsurpassed performance even under very demanding driving conditions.
Latest engine technologies including Turbo-chargers, Direct Injection, Diesels (without DPF) and Hybrids
High performance engines
Most operating conditions, from mild to extreme
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time. According to M1 the 0w40 is designed to work well with newer DIT engines. Copied this from their website.
Applications
Thanks to extensive cooperative development work with major manufacturers and the application of the latest lubrication technology, Mobil 1 0W-40 is recommended for many types of modern vehicles where it will help provide unsurpassed performance even under very demanding driving conditions.
Latest engine technologies including Turbo-chargers, Direct Injection, Diesels (without DPF) and Hybrids
High performance engines
Most operating conditions, from mild to extreme
This is only marketing.
In reality, M1 FS 0W-40 has high calcium (> 2,500 ppm) and no magnesium; therefore, it can't have SN PLUS. Also, 1.34% sulfated ash is really high. In addition to not having LSPI protection, this is definitely a high-SAPS/full-SAPS oil.
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time. According to M1 the 0w40 is designed to work well with newer DIT engines. Copied this from their website.
Applications
Thanks to extensive cooperative development work with major manufacturers and the application of the latest lubrication technology, Mobil 1 0W-40 is recommended for many types of modern vehicles where it will help provide unsurpassed performance even under very demanding driving conditions.
Latest engine technologies including Turbo-chargers, Direct Injection, Diesels (without DPF) and Hybrids
High performance engines
Most operating conditions, from mild to extreme
This is only marketing.
In reality, M1 FS 0W-40 has high calcium (> 2,500 ppm) and no magnesium; therefore, it can't have SN PLUS. Also, 1.34% sulfated ash is really high. In addition to not having LSPI protection, this is definitely a high-SAPS/full-SAPS oil.
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
How come they are non issues?
With GDI engine, you would want to keep valves cleaner. The issue starts with air coming out of PCV value with oil vapor right?
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
How come they are non issues?
With GDI engine, you would want to keep valves cleaner. The issue starts with air coming out of PCV value with oil vapor right?
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Ruturaj
Originally Posted by Gokhan
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
How come they are non issues?
With GDI engine, you would want to keep valves cleaner. The issue starts with air coming out of PCV value with oil vapor right?
Nope, not PCV oil vapor (evaporated oil) -- PCV oil mist (unevaporated liquid air droplets). This has been explained in several other threads.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
NOACK, VII, and shear stability are nonissues for synthetic oil. Carbon build-up and intake-valve deposits have nothing to do with the NOACK and VII. Use a full-synthetic mid-SAPS oil with API SN PLUS and/or dexos1 Gen 2.
How come they are non issues?
With GDI engine, you would want to keep valves cleaner. The issue starts with air coming out of PCV value with oil vapor right?
Nope, not PCV oil vapor (evaporated oil) -- PCV oil mist (unevaporated liquid air droplets). This has been explained in several other threads.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time.
Don't mix the oils. Run the 0W-40.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time.
Don't mix the oils. Run the 0W-40.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
What about Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel 10w30?
It's gas rated and meets A3/B3, has no VII, super low noack etc.
Or my second choice would be Shell Helix Ultra 5w40
It's gas rated and meets A3/B3, has no VII, super low noack etc.
Or my second choice would be Shell Helix Ultra 5w40
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Can you point out where in the current VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes specs, the oil is tested for LSPI and intake-valve deposits in GDI engines?
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Can you point out where in the current VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes specs, the oil is tested for LSPI and intake-valve deposits in GDI engines?
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Can you point out where in the current VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes specs, the oil is tested for LSPI and intake-valve deposits in GDI engines?
The German MFGs were the first to the party with direct injection... Most if not all of their engines now use the technology, and many are sold to the same style of driver that would purchase a Stinger... That is the market Kia is trying to capture.
Does the Kia Stinger engine have issues with LSPI or IVD? Not sure why you'd try to solve a problem if one doesn't exist.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Can you point out where in the current VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes specs, the oil is tested for LSPI and intake-valve deposits in GDI engines?
The German MFGs were the first to the party with direct injection... Most if not all of their engines now use the technology, and many are sold to the same style of driver that would purchase a Stinger... That is the market Kia is trying to capture.
Does the Kia Stinger engine have issues with LSPI or IVD? Not sure why you'd try to solve a problem if one doesn't exist.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time.
Don't mix the oils. Run the 0W-40.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 to mix with the 5w30 next time.
Don't mix the oils. Run the 0W-40.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
It's not really suitable for GDI engines.
Sure it is. It meets current spec for VW/Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes.
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Why not buy some 5W-30 and use the rest of your 5W-30?
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Why not buy some 5W-30 and use the rest of your 5W-30?
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Why not buy some 5W-30 and use the rest of your 5W-30?
Why do that if I plan to switch to 0w40? When you buy 5 quarts and your vehicle takes 7.3 its a bit difficult. They want too much money for the single quarts.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Why not mix and use the rest of my 5w30?
Why not buy some 5W-30 and use the rest of your 5W-30?
Why do that if I plan to switch to 0w40? When you buy 5 quarts and your vehicle takes 7.3 its a bit difficult. They want too much money for the single quarts.
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
Who said it would?
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
Who said it would?
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
Who said it would?
Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.
Who said it would?
Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
No I will have to wait till my next pay check to get the other 2.3 quarts.
What about the left over 5w30 in my engine? Maybe I should disassemble it to get all that cleaned out?
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
No I will have to wait till my next pay check to get the other 2.3 quarts.
What about the left over 5w30 in my engine? Maybe I should disassemble it to get all that cleaned out?
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.
I asked you to say who told you it would "blow up" as you stated. I've never seen anyone say that on here. There are good and valid reasons not to mix oils but the simple reality is that if you do so it will not "blow up" your engine, that is guaranteed.
Or do we just want to beat that dead horse more than it has already been beat?
Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.
I asked you to say who told you it would "blow up" as you stated. I've never seen anyone say that on here. There are good and valid reasons not to mix oils but the simple reality is that if you do so it will not "blow up" your engine, that is guaranteed.
Or do we just want to beat that dead horse more than it has already been beat?
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