Oil for new 18 Stinger GT

[Spdfrk1990]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.

I asked you to say who told you it would "blow up" as you stated. I've never seen anyone say that on here. There are good and valid reasons not to mix oils but the simple reality is that if you do so it will not "blow up" your engine, that is guaranteed.

Or do we just want to beat that dead horse more than it has already been beat?


If it was not obvious I was trying to figure out why not to mix the oils. I was poking for answers that actually had an explanation.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
If it was not obvious I was trying to figure out why not to mix the oils. I was poking for answers that actually had an explanation.

This has been a frequent topic of endless debate on here. The reasons not to do so is because there is no guarantee that the resulting mixture will perform as intended. As Shannow has pointed out, the winter (W) rating may be affected (mixing two 0W oils does not guarantee it will result in an oil with a 0W rating), plus any certifications and specifications either oil has will not carry over into the mixture. An oil obtains approvals, specifications and licenses based on the specific additive pack and base oil composition that was tested for compliance. If this changes (as it obviously does during your mixing) the oil has to be re-submitted for testing. As an example, two licensed oils with API SN when mixed together do not necessarily meet the requirements for SN - and you as the consumer have no way of knowing whether they do or not.

Two API licensed oils must allow mixing without gross chemical defects (in other words, "blowing up" your engine). However this does not mean that the resulting mixture is optimal nor does it mean it meets any of the stated properties and specs the individual oils had prior to mixing.

 

[PimTac]

Just buy 5 quart jugs and a pitcher. Measure the 2.3 quarts using the pitcher. That's cheaper than buying quarts.

 

[Spdfrk1990]

Thanks. I guess we dont have to beat the dead horse any longer as I can search since it has been discussed a lot.

 

[ka9mnx]

Originally Posted by PimTac
Just buy 5 quart jugs and a pitcher. Measure the 2.3 quarts using the pitcher. That's cheaper than buying quarts.

Beat me to it. Buy 2 jugs and use the left over for top off's or the next oil change. I agree. My 4Runner takes 6 quarts and the quart bottles at WM are expensive.

 

[RooflessVW]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
If you can afford the car, you can afford the oil...
I dont think it will blow up if I mix 0w40 and 5w30.

Who said it would?

Give me a reason not to mix the 0w40 and 5w30 for one interval? I am trying to figure out why not as I have done it before and so have many others on here.

How much do you have left? I'm assuming 2.8 quarts.

So buy another jug of M1 5W-30, and do one more oil change. It won't cost any more or less. Some say there's no good reason not to mix but, well, I can't think of a good reason TO mix.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Don't mix the oil all up. Just go to Walmart and buy some oil.

 

[wymi516]

Could we start a list of what oils people like for this application.

 

[PimTac]

Since the OP started this thread last March we must assume he has changed the oil already and moved on.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Castrol 5W-40 would probably be my last choice for a 5W-40. It�s generally regarded as sub-par around here. There are plenty of others available here in the U.S. I listed them above. Motul or Pennzoil 5W-40 would be great options.

Motul is much more expensive online. I will check and see if walmart has the pennzoil though.

Valvoline 5W40 MST. I used it in BMW X5 35d a lot and it proved good. It is available in Wal Mart. It is thinner than Castrol 5W40 but, HTHS is same, 3.7, which indicates more sophisticated formulation. My choice would be Castrol 0W40, but since you are worried about warranty (and not sure why 5W40 is OK, but 0W40 is not) I guess stick to 5W40.

 

[aquariuscsm]

QSUD has a euro 5W40 but I've never seen it in the stores.

 

[Ruturaj]

Originally Posted by PimTac
Since the OP started this thread last March we must assume he has changed the oil already and moved on.


I hope he will change oil again.

I am the one who commented on old thread. I am also a owner of a Kia Stinger. I think I can use a lot of info here (I went through all posts) and make a good decision for coming oil changes. May be post some data on stingerforum. I had few questions that's why I made a post.

 

[Spdfrk1990]

Originally Posted by Ruturaj
Originally Posted by PimTac
Since the OP started this thread last March we must assume he has changed the oil already and moved on.


I hope he will change oil again.

I am the one who commented on old thread. I am also a owner of a Kia Stinger. I think I can use a lot of info here (I went through all posts) and make a good decision for coming oil changes. May be post some data on stingerforum. I had few questions that's why I made a post.


Why should I change oil again? I do UOA's for every change to see how my engine is doing. Bit too new at this point though as I have only done 2 oil changes on it. Do you have data to claim that a certain oil is best for the 3.3? The engine could be totally fine on the 5w30 M1 EP. I tend to think if you use any quality synthetic in the manufacturer suggested range for a daily that you should be fine. Whats odd about the Stinger is they say you can use 0w30 for the 4 cylinder but only suggest 5w40 and 5w30 for the v6. Everybody has a different opinion when it comes to oil it seems. One person will say this oil will protect best and then another person will chime in and say no you cant use that in a DIT engine it will cause too many deposits around the valves. blah blah blah. I tend to like a 0w40 in a turbo charged engine but was a bit worried about the warranty at first.

Now if someone proved that a certain oil consistently had really good UOA's in this engine then I may change my mind. I remember back when I had an LS1 camaro I ran the 0w30 castrol because there was a ton of UOA's out there to back it up.

I like to come on here and hopefully find some facts about different oils that I didnt know about but it just gets too confusing at times with all the different opinions. So just choose an oil and change it on time with a new filter and post up some UOA's.

 

[Ruturaj]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Why should I change oil again?


I meant regular oil changes (every 3,000 or 6,000 miles, whichever you follow). If you going to keep the oil forever then keep it in the engine

I didn't mean switch brands.

Edit: And what I meant in my original post was, there is a point in keeping the thread going on and not drop it since you changed your oil after selecting one brand. As you will change oil again and might be open to changing brand if something new comes out of this conversation. Also sorry for hijacking your thread but I tried to kept it relevant.

 

[Ruturaj]

I am a novice.

What I understood about viscosity
1. Oil needs to be at certain viscosity at engine start
2. Oil needs to be at certain viscosity at operating temperatures

So depending on weather any of the 0W-XX, 5W-XX and 10W-XX might suit someone better than the other. I live in Raleigh, NC, someone might live in texas and you in Cincinnati. Though 5W-30 works everywhere as per manual. But I was trying to get answer to was, will it be a better choice for me over others.

Assume, you start your car in average winter temp of -5°C where my winter average is 7-8°C (made up numbers). If I am using 10W30 and you are using 5W30, (still assume) we might be starting the car when oil as at same viscosity.

So if viscosity goes out of question for "me" (i.e. both oil viscosity work for me) then I should look at other things.

 

[Spdfrk1990]

It will never be as thin at a cold start as it is when the engine is up to temp. If they say its ok to run on a 5w40 then why not a 0w40 which should flow better at startup?

 

[Ruturaj]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
It will never be as thin at a cold start as it is when the engine is up to temp. If they say its ok to run on a 5w40 then why not a 0w40 which should flow better at startup?


No, because of the additives, the oil is at 30 at operating temperature. That's what the second number stands for.

I think the bigger tha gap between viscosity at 0 and operating temp, less stable is oil and more additives.

 

[Spdfrk1990]

Originally Posted by Ruturaj
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
It will never be as thin at a cold start as it is when the engine is up to temp. If they say its ok to run on a 5w40 then why not a 0w40 which should flow better at startup?


No, because of the additives, the oil is at 30 at operating temperature. That's what the second number stands for.

I think the bigger tha gap between viscosity at 0 and operating temp, less stable is oil and more additives.


I know what the numbers stand for and between an 0w40 and a 5w40 why not go with the 0w40? There is no 30 in either one of those I listed.

 

[Ruturaj]

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
It will never be as thin at a cold start as it is when the engine is up to temp.


I was replying to this in my first part. As this is not possible. I had a reference of 5w-30 (which I should have mentioned).

Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
between an 0w40 and a 5w40 why not go with the 0w40?


I think the smaller gap between viscosity at 0 and operating temp means less VII's, lower Noack volatility, and be more shear stable.

Also depending on where you live, 0W might be useless to you. Second number matters for normal operation and First number matters for start and completely depends on weather or cold start temp.

 

[Brigadier]

If it were my T-GDI engine, I would be running a dexos 2 rated 5W30 or 5W40.