I should have remembered that. The TG3985 would be a good choice. They have silicone anti drainback valves.
Oil drainback/dry startup issues
- Thread starter Brynjaminjones
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+1 for the Fram TG
Thanks, I'll look into that Fram.
For the next OCI I've got my hands on a Made in USA K&N HP-2007. They're easy to find over here and after watching loads of tear down videos, I've been pleased with the build quality. I've heard mixed reports on them but I liked what I saw.
I'll report back here once I've tried it in a couple of weeks.
For the next OCI I've got my hands on a Made in USA K&N HP-2007. They're easy to find over here and after watching loads of tear down videos, I've been pleased with the build quality. I've heard mixed reports on them but I liked what I saw.
I'll report back here once I've tried it in a couple of weeks.
Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
Thanks, I'll look into that Fram.
For the next OCI I've got my hands on a Made in USA K&N HP-2007. They're easy to find over here and after watching loads of tear down videos, I've been pleased with the build quality. I've heard mixed reports on them but I liked what I saw.
I'll report back here once I've tried it in a couple of weeks.
Those k&Ns are some very well made filters. Made by champion labs again nowadays and probably very similar media to the M1 which by my experience can easily withstand the 20k miles it's rated for and more.
Thanks, I'll look into that Fram.
For the next OCI I've got my hands on a Made in USA K&N HP-2007. They're easy to find over here and after watching loads of tear down videos, I've been pleased with the build quality. I've heard mixed reports on them but I liked what I saw.
I'll report back here once I've tried it in a couple of weeks.
Those k&Ns are some very well made filters. Made by champion labs again nowadays and probably very similar media to the M1 which by my experience can easily withstand the 20k miles it's rated for and more.
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Guys, please remember that this engine was not built by Chrysler or AMC. This engine was built by by his builder. If his builder says 20-50, then 20-50 is what he should run.
I would normally agree with a motorsports premium build, We also don't know the reputation of this "engine builder" or what he/she may know about motor oil. Likely not a 'motorsport" guy. We all know most mechanics have been reported to be notoriously ignorant on the subject. Agreed that an ACEA A3/B4 30 grade should do it. Unless the guy clearanced something wide for some unknown reason.
The OP should have a talk with the builder. Learn final clearances measured and piston type/ metallurgy.
Guys, please remember that this engine was not built by Chrysler or AMC. This engine was built by by his builder. If his builder says 20-50, then 20-50 is what he should run.
I would normally agree with a motorsports premium build, We also don't know the reputation of this "engine builder" or what he/she may know about motor oil. Likely not a 'motorsport" guy. We all know most mechanics have been reported to be notoriously ignorant on the subject. Agreed that an ACEA A3/B4 30 grade should do it. Unless the guy clearanced something wide for some unknown reason.
The OP should have a talk with the builder. Learn final clearances measured and piston type/ metallurgy.
Thanks for the advice guys.
On the topic of suitable oil type:
My engine builder usually builds drag racing engines for a living. He specifically told me that he tightened up the clearances vs. what he would normally do for a racing engine, as this is in no way meant for racing. He explained that the wider clearances in a racing engine are in order to build a thicker wedge of oil.
He did tell me briefly what the clearances were in my engine but I'm not clued up on what the normal range is. I think he said around 0.001"- 0.003" for the main bearings.
I ordered all the parts myself and everything is pretty much a good quality stock replacement.
The pistons are cast aluminum.
He did tell me that 20w-50 is what all his drag racers use, which is why he does too. I'd guess in this case that I could do to drop down a touch in oil weight as they would have wider clearances than I do.
Based on all the above, would you guys agree?
Linctex, the oil filter in this is on its side, so I think a regular style filter should be okay.
On the topic of suitable oil type:
My engine builder usually builds drag racing engines for a living. He specifically told me that he tightened up the clearances vs. what he would normally do for a racing engine, as this is in no way meant for racing. He explained that the wider clearances in a racing engine are in order to build a thicker wedge of oil.
He did tell me briefly what the clearances were in my engine but I'm not clued up on what the normal range is. I think he said around 0.001"- 0.003" for the main bearings.
I ordered all the parts myself and everything is pretty much a good quality stock replacement.
The pistons are cast aluminum.
He did tell me that 20w-50 is what all his drag racers use, which is why he does too. I'd guess in this case that I could do to drop down a touch in oil weight as they would have wider clearances than I do.
Based on all the above, would you guys agree?
Linctex, the oil filter in this is on its side, so I think a regular style filter should be okay.
Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
Thanks for the advice guys.
On the topic of suitable oil type:
My engine builder usually builds drag racing engines for a living. He specifically told me that he tightened up the clearances vs. what he would normally do for a racing engine, as this is in no way meant for racing. He explained that the wider clearances in a racing engine are in order to build a thicker wedge of oil.
He did tell me briefly what the clearances were in my engine but I'm not clued up on what the normal range is. I think he said around 0.001"- 0.003" for the main bearings.
I ordered all the parts myself and everything is pretty much a good quality stock replacement.
The pistons are cast aluminum.
He did tell me that 20w-50 is what all his drag racers use, which is why he does too. I'd guess in this case that I could do to drop down a touch in oil weight as they would have wider clearances than I do.
Based on all the above, would you guys agree?
Linctex, the oil filter in this is on its side, so I think a regular style filter should be okay.
If the bearing clearances are 0.001" to 0.003" I'd think a good full synthetic 5W-30 would work good for normal street driving. Lots of V8 engines with 400+ HP have been or are specified for 5W-30 and have similar bearing clearance. You're in the UK that doesn't get that hot either, so no real need for 20W-50.
Thanks for the advice guys.
On the topic of suitable oil type:
My engine builder usually builds drag racing engines for a living. He specifically told me that he tightened up the clearances vs. what he would normally do for a racing engine, as this is in no way meant for racing. He explained that the wider clearances in a racing engine are in order to build a thicker wedge of oil.
He did tell me briefly what the clearances were in my engine but I'm not clued up on what the normal range is. I think he said around 0.001"- 0.003" for the main bearings.
I ordered all the parts myself and everything is pretty much a good quality stock replacement.
The pistons are cast aluminum.
He did tell me that 20w-50 is what all his drag racers use, which is why he does too. I'd guess in this case that I could do to drop down a touch in oil weight as they would have wider clearances than I do.
Based on all the above, would you guys agree?
Linctex, the oil filter in this is on its side, so I think a regular style filter should be okay.
If the bearing clearances are 0.001" to 0.003" I'd think a good full synthetic 5W-30 would work good for normal street driving. Lots of V8 engines with 400+ HP have been or are specified for 5W-30 and have similar bearing clearance. You're in the UK that doesn't get that hot either, so no real need for 20W-50.
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