Oil 2009 Kawi 650R

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quant

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Hello guys,

so I have been surfing the forums but I still can't find an oil / oil filter that fits my application per say..

I own a 2009 Kawasaki 650R Parallel Twin with wet clutch. It is almost at 6000km (~3700miles) and I would like to switch to synthetic if that offers me better protection. I will occasionally ride it to work and ride most weekends. Once the weather gets cold it's stored.

I would not mind doing oil changes as often as 3000km(~2000miles) if the price is right and I get a decent piece of mind. Conventional or synthetic shouldn't matter as long as the numbers do the talking.

What do the experts recommend in terms of oil / oil filter to use for this type of application?
 
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Filter: Wix 51358 (Napa Gold 1358).

As for oil, if you're going to be changing it as often as every 2-3K miles, then you can just run mineral oil in it to save you some money, for example Shell Rotella T 15w40.

The main benefit of running synthetic would be longer drain intervals; however, in many wet clutch applications, even the synthetics don't last a whole lot longer before your clutch/trans gets clunky and you want to change it anyway. But if you do want to run synthetic, Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil seems to hold up well. I'm sure there are others...

Welcome to BITOG!
 
The 650R has a fairly high speed engine...red line what, 10k?

I'd not use a 15w40; I'd prefer an oil with a lighter vis when cold.

What's so unusual about your riding? Any 10W-40 motorcycle oil, many 10W-40 car oils, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 all will do a fine job. As will just about any oil filter spec'ed for your bike.

And I'd use the oil drain intervals and filter change intervals shown in your owner's manual.
 
I'd suggest Valvoline 10w40 conventional motorcycle oil, JASO MA2 rated, good for wet clutches, avail at Walmart here in U.S: don't know about Canada. Its reasonably priced and would be suitable for your use.
 
In my old R6(2002) I ran Rotella T 15w40, my red line was 14k this oil works great.
If you can run a longer oil filter than stock, then I would try a Baldwin B1431 or if it will fit B161-S. If you like Wix, the 51344 oil filter is the same size as the B161-S. If you can use a filter that is 4.8" long then I'd go for the Wix 51347.

ROD
 
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Thank you for the great replies guys !

The redline is at 11K like you said. I am strongly considering Rotella 15w40 but I don't really want to risk it.

I can run a longer filter, no issues there so right now I am leaning towards the Wix 51344.

I am unsure about running a filter that is not specified for my bike because maybe the pressure or filtering element is not designed for the capacity or pressure of the oil in my bike. Are the longer filters just...longer? Are the by-pass valves specified to open at a different pressure? What's the general opinion on this?

I guess my options for oil are:
Valvoline 10w40 conventional at about $5.50/quart
Valvoline 10W-40 Synthetic at about $7.97/quart
Rotella 15w40 conventional at about $3.17/quart

If 11K redline is not an issue for Rotella 15w40 with a bit shorter OCI I will probably go that route. Will the Rotella perform really well?
 
Is your redline so important? I run Rotella T6 in our Ninja 250 with a 13000 RPM redline and have had no complaints running it since 2006. I Did a 800 mile run across Texas at 9-10000 RPM the whole day with that oil.
 
Nah, I wouldn't say that it is that important and I don't spend that much time around it but I am still considering it.

I used to have a 250R and that revs quite a bit higher than the 650R at highway speeds.
 
My 450 would rev and sit at 9000rpm for hours on end. The 750 shadow revs at 6000rpm on the highway for hours until it needs fuel again. So rotella conventional has done just fine for me at high rpm,and I use it in my Harley,
Not sure what you are referring to as far as risking anything.
 
Originally Posted By: quant
Thank you for the great replies guys !

...but I don't really want to risk it...

I can run a longer filter, no issues there so right now I am leaning towards the Wix 51344.

Are the by-pass valves specified to open at a different pressure? What's the general opinion on this?



The Rotella 15w40 will be just fine for your bike. As for the length of the filter, the more filter material you have the better it will filter. It will take longer to load up with junk(like stuff off your clutch) and go into bypass. The bypass on your oil filter for your engine is around 12 lbs but the larger the filter the lower the bypass can be because if you go with the a filter that is over twice as large(Wix 51347) as the stock one it will flow more oil with less PSID on the filter.

ROD
 
I've owned a 650R, stick with a Kawasaki oil filter, they are different inside than a standard paper element filter. Use Maxima Maxum Extra 10w-40 oil, your bike will love you for it. Change it once a season. It is a Ester synthetic,and while pricey it runs SO nice, best motorcycle oil I have found.

Inside Kaw oil filter: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=127512

Oil:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/988/7376/ITEM/Maxima-Maxum4-Extra-Oil.aspx?SiteID=Google_PLA988&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&kw={keyword}&gclid=CL2r4PPAmLgCFehAMgod4GgAaA


Those Kaw oil filters are really high flow for the high revving sport bike motors. I don't know if it is coincidence but my last Kaw (ZZR600) that that had Frams it's whole life before me ( 25 of 30K miles) had some pretty major motor issues around the 30K mark.... We're talking bearing issues and stretched timing chain. Now, not saying it was 100% because of the Frams but I'd suspect that revving at 14K RPM's and not getting enough oil flow lead to issues over time.
 
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The 11K redline on your bike is no big deal; some people use Rotella in sport bikes with much higher redlines with excellent results.

I think you are right to be concerned about the filter. There is nothing wrong with using an aftermarket filter, just do some research and make sure you get one with the right specifications. I use a NAPA Gold 1365, which has an 8-11 psi bypass, and costs a little more than half of an OEM Triumph filter. If it fits your Kawi, it might be a good choice for yours too. If Triumph filters weren't so expensive, or I only changed my oil once per year, I would just use them. Because of the early 600 miles oil change, I changed mine five times last year, so I don't mind finding less expensive alternatives whenever I can.
 
btw, the 650R uses Kawi part# 16097-0004 for filter... it might be slightly different than the 16097-0003 that was cut up..
 
Originally Posted By: Huie83
Those Kaw oil filters are really high flow for the high revving sport bike motors.

The Wix flows 8-10 GPM. Does the Kawasaki filter flow even more?


As for the bypass valve, the way I understand it, most Kawi engines have an internal valve that engages at fairly low PSI, therefore, if you have a bypass valve in the filter, it never even comes into play. Another words, no benefit of having one inside the oil filter, but no particular harm either.
 
Purolator Pure One PL14610 is longer than stock, increasing oil capacity slightly. It fits fine in my Versys 650 (very similar engine/exhaust to the Ninja 650R). Don't remember if I ever tried one in my Ninja 650R, but it seems the same down there.
 
If you're going to change your oil every 2500 miles, just change your filter every other change. Lots of articles show that filters are more effective for smaller particles after they have caught a few larger particles. Plus, this is still more often than OEM recommendations...
 
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