New mobil 1 extended performance pds

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Person I ran that by said that the reason it stalled out under it's own power was that something "seized" to stop the rotation, is why I mentioned that in that way.

Starting it right back up avoided staying seized
No. Who is this person? I am going to put a WANTED poster out for him :)

Like someone else said, keep and eye on the HG now. One way to do this is buy an OTC kit to test for exhaust bubbling into the coolant.

And I don't ever recommend opening a hot cooing system to "let the steam out" that will just boil MORE coolant.

What year and model Subaru do you have ?
The EJ253 is a fun engine. V8 size pistons, super short stroke, High static compression. good breather, It even has a Subaru version of Honda's VTEC called iALVS. I enjoyed driving my wife's Foresters that had this engine with a 5 peed manual..
 

Foxtrot08

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Where do you place Chevron in this mix?

Same with Citgo. Chevron isn't huge in the PCEO market.

Havoline is fine. But it's more of a 'we have this' instead of 'this is what we do.'

Citgo Supergard is the same thing.
 
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No. Who is this person? I am going to put a WANTED poster out for him :)

Like someone else said, keep and eye on the HG now. One way to do this is buy an OTC kit to test for exhaust bubbling into the coolant.

And I don't ever recommend opening a hot cooing system to "let the steam out" that will just boil MORE coolant.

What year and model Subaru do you have ?
The EJ253 is a fun engine. V8 size pistons, super short stroke, High static compression. good breather, It even has a Subaru version of Honda's VTEC called iALVS. I enjoyed driving my wife's Foresters that had this engine with a 5 peed manual..
I am not at liberty to disclose who this person is lol. But they made similar observation about possible problems going forward. Not trying to jinx anything but I am starting to really feel like this engine had a head gasket replaced under warranty which is why it is holding up so well at high miles.

You bring up a good question about why engines stall by themselves when they overheat.

So are you saying that you don't feel like a superior quality oil with superior quality base oil would make a difference in preventing seizing there?
 
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That's my thought, he hit the thermal kill temp. As @Trav pointed out though, that likely means damage.
While that is possible , I basically haven't had a single issue with the engine except for P0420 monitor and my battle with it presently since I got the hose and coolant situation replaced and bleeded (replaced hose bled system no coolant lost I check it regular. temp gauge stays put)

And I'd love to share my findings but for now I'm going to have to refrain from commenting on it further because its not going to be thread derailed today.

Maybe to people that would like to know. Maybe.

The whole point of my post was that I absolutely had to hire quality motor oils in the engine at that time and I spoke with someone at length about how it did turn off by itself pretty much at the same time I noticed the temperature gauge spiking (right after gave it gas to accelerate. Down block from my home) and the takeaways that were observed were the following:

1. " it shut off by itself so that tells me something got hot enough to seize, stop the rotation of the engine, maybe a ring to a wall" may have been said, this is a month and a half ago at this point and many thousands of miles ago. Incident-free.. from the anonymous source I quote. Can't cite the person. Sorry.

2. High quality motor oil was credited with being able to immediately restart it. Makes sense, since oil lubricates the cylinder wall in the 4-stroke cycle. Oil rings, oil control rings, scrape.

3. Was able to restart after "30 seconds" of assessing the situation and get it back home it was definitely a close call and the problem was later traced to a blown hose with a pinhole leak that let coolant out enough for that to happen.

Put at least 2000 miles, more like double that plus since this happened. No issues. No signs .

That's how this post got in the post about the motor oil here.

And it has been my experience that if you drive a car that is overheating long enough it will turn off by itself and if you leave the coolant cap on then all that Steam and pressure has nowhere to go and that's when you end up with a blown head gasket it was in my youth that I discovered that if you open up the system that yeah it's extremely unsafe to do so but you just might be saving the engine by giving it a place to go. Coolant boiling? Okay, as long as it's not boiling a hole in your head gasket but that's just speculation. Had more than my share of instances so now we're coming back to reality and normalcy. Maybe a Group 3 would allow easier seizing of a piston to a cylinder wall? over one with Group 4 or Group 5 oils... speculation, but, again, as to the discussion of formations.

Maybe it doesn't.

Maybe it does.

Extreme heat environment....

Any details beyond that I'm going to have to defer to a new thread or DMs since this thread is about the new Mobile 1 oil.
 
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Unless your comparing redline's parent company, P66 to Mobil, there is no comparison between Redline and Mobil. As they don't share the same market place. Amsoil vs Mobil also, don't really share the same market place. Comparing Boutique oils to Mobil One isn't really an apples to apples comparison, as you're comparing essentially ILMA's to a major.

So it would be Mobil vs SOPUS vs P66 vs BP/Castrol, essentially in the US.

So let's look at some 'creativity' - mostly marketing for PCEO, as it really in the scheme of things matters little.

Mobil vs SOPUS - Specifically Pennzoil platinum. Creative marketing with the usage of GTL base stocks. Low Noack, over all good formulation. They evolve it through the typical SOPUS style of more convoluted naming sequences, with little easy to understand explanation of what the differences are between them.

Mobil vs P66 - Kendall GT-1 MAX - the previous formulations had a utilization of Ti in their formulation. They had to dial it back to a more 'conventional' formulation with the LiquidTek due to costs, however it was something fun to utilize.

- P66 Shield products have been very tame in their marketing, much like Mobil's because of their OEM utilization. While using a secondary brand to be more creative.'

Mobil vs Castrol - Still utilizes Ti add packs.

Creativity is part of the process in terms of on the shelf marketing. Mobil 1 is clearly trying to come up with the 'gotcha' that the other brands have. Mobil is missing it a bit, they did try it with the extended performance, with their "Triple action+" formulation. But again, still a bit dated in terms of marketing. They could play around with advertising their base oils - like SOPUS/Pennzoil. They're very creative in their B2B marketing of their base stocks.

As for the Ca/Mg/LSPI - this was a cost savings, not a 'performance' thing. Lowering the amount of calcium in the additive package, made the additive package cheaper. Thus, the cost of oil cheaper. Mobil just decided to go cheaper, earlier. Thus why you saw a price reduction from SN to SN+ products. IIRC, it was about 7 CPG.

I didn't say Mobil 1 was bad, I said it was the bar, which is pretty good (as you pointed out) to be the industry standard. However, if you use and of the 4 I listed above, your B10 on your engine life will probably be statistically the same.
Ah ok so you're referring to marketing creativity. I was mistaken and took it as formulating creativity.
 
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While that is possible , I basically haven't had a single issue with the engine except for P0420 monitor and my battle with it presently since I got the hose and coolant situation replaced and bleeded (replaced hose bled system no coolant lost I check it regular. temp gauge stays put)

And I'd love to share my findings but for now I'm going to have to refrain from commenting on it further because its not going to be thread derailed today.

Maybe to people that would like to know. Maybe.

The whole point of my post was that I absolutely had to hire quality motor oils in the engine at that time and I spoke with someone at length about how it did turn off by itself pretty much at the same time I noticed the temperature gauge spiking (right after gave it gas to accelerate. Down block from my home) and the takeaways that were observed were the following:

1. " it shut off by itself so that tells me something got hot enough to seize, stop the rotation of the engine, maybe a ring to a wall" may have been said, this is a month and a half ago at this point and many thousands of miles ago. Incident-free.. from the anonymous source I quote. Can't cite the person. Sorry.

2. High quality motor oil was credited with being able to immediately restart it. Makes sense, since oil lubricates the cylinder wall in the 4-stroke cycle. Oil rings, oil control rings, scrape.

3. Was able to restart after "30 seconds" of assessing the situation and get it back home it was definitely a close call and the problem was later traced to a blown hose with a pinhole leak that let coolant out enough for that to happen.

Put at least 2000 miles, more like double that plus since this happened. No issues. No signs .

That's how this post got in the post about the motor oil here.

And it has been my experience that if you drive a car that is overheating long enough it will turn off by itself and if you leave the coolant cap on then all that Steam and pressure has nowhere to go and that's when you end up with a blown head gasket it was in my youth that I discovered that if you open up the system that yeah it's extremely unsafe to do so but you just might be saving the engine by giving it a place to go. Coolant boiling? Okay, as long as it's not boiling a hole in your head gasket but that's just speculation. Had more than my share of instances so now we're coming back to reality and normalcy. Maybe a Group 3 would allow easier seizing of a piston to a cylinder wall? over one with Group 4 or Group 5 oils... speculation, but, again, as to the discussion of formations.

Maybe it doesn't.

Maybe it does.

Extreme heat environment....

Any details beyond that I'm going to have to defer to a new thread or DMs since this thread is about the new Mobile 1 oil.

Yeah….

So what does this even remotely have to do with M1 EP formulation.
 

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Yeah….

So what does this even remotely have to do with M1 EP formulation.
The whole point of my post was that I absolutely had to hire quality motor oils in the engine at that time

That's how this post got in the post about the motor oil here.

Any details beyond that I'm going to have to defer to a new thread or DMs since this thread is about the new Mobile 1 oil.

There was talk about the formulation being "cheapened."
 
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The EJ253 is a fun engine. V8 size pistons, super short stroke, High static compression. good breather,
Arco, I don’t know I’d call it a super short stroke; it’s more like a half of a Ford 302 that’s been laid horizontal… nearly 4” bore and a 3” stroke (99.5x79). But the heads on even an SOHC 2.5 will outflow the E7TE heads that started coming on the ‘87 5.0 that started a craze…
 
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I'm not sure how you came to 2. What I've seen over the years is others "following" what Mobil was doing.

For example, in early 2000's Mobil went to a higher Ca based formulation while Amsoil was using mostly Mg. Over time the Ca levels were lowered (SA). Amsoil used high Ca up until around 2015. The higher Ca worked well but LSPI reared its head. Around 2012 Mobil switched to a mostly Mg based formulation due to LSPI issues. They were alone at that time in using this blend. Years later, Driven, Amsoil etc. all switched to the same Mg/Ca based formulation due to LSPI issues. Redline has stuck with a formulation that looks like it's from 1997. Driven thought they did something miraculous with their GDI oils claiming they were so special when in reality they were anything but. This was in 2016 or so. Behind the curve a bit?

I've seen nothing from other blenders that suggest they are more creative. In fact, it appears to be the opposite. I would also add why change something when it already meets exceed the standards and future standards?

Please explain how creativity is part of this process.

"Many Mobil 1 motor oils met the API SP performance standard before the licensed start date, making those full synthetic oils more than 10 years ahead of their time for providing protection against LSPI."

Why so concerned with what small guys were doing then? There are at least three other heavy players that you didn't mention what they were up to.
 
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My favorite is Schaeffer oil,used it for years. My second choice is Torco. I jumped on the HPL bandwagon just last week.
I took bought the HPL EC30 for occasional maintenance and cleaning. Might be the only product I use, but I have certain dedication to certain brands from certain manufacturers.
 
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