New mobil 1 extended performance pds

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Why so concerned with what small guys were doing then? There are at least three other heavy players that you didn't mention what they were up to.
Nothing against the smaller blenders and boutique brands.

Didn't mean to come across as anti-boutique oil. I'm not and currently using Amsoil. I've just seen a lot of very mediocre boutique brands I wouldn't touch, and they often don't actually meet any specifications.
 
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While that is possible , I basically haven't had a single issue with the engine except for P0420 monitor and my battle with it presently since I got the hose and coolant situation replaced and bleeded (replaced hose bled system no coolant lost I check it regular. temp gauge stays put)

And I'd love to share my findings but for now I'm going to have to refrain from commenting on it further because its not going to be thread derailed today.

Maybe to people that would like to know. Maybe.

The whole point of my post was that I absolutely had to hire quality motor oils in the engine at that time and I spoke with someone at length about how it did turn off by itself pretty much at the same time I noticed the temperature gauge spiking (right after gave it gas to accelerate. Down block from my home) and the takeaways that were observed were the following:

1. " it shut off by itself so that tells me something got hot enough to seize, stop the rotation of the engine, maybe a ring to a wall" may have been said, this is a month and a half ago at this point and many thousands of miles ago. Incident-free.. from the anonymous source I quote. Can't cite the person. Sorry.

2. High quality motor oil was credited with being able to immediately restart it. Makes sense, since oil lubricates the cylinder wall in the 4-stroke cycle. Oil rings, oil control rings, scrape.

3. Was able to restart after "30 seconds" of assessing the situation and get it back home it was definitely a close call and the problem was later traced to a blown hose with a pinhole leak that let coolant out enough for that to happen.

Put at least 2000 miles, more like double that plus since this happened. No issues. No signs .

That's how this post got in the post about the motor oil here.

And it has been my experience that if you drive a car that is overheating long enough it will turn off by itself and if you leave the coolant cap on then all that Steam and pressure has nowhere to go and that's when you end up with a blown head gasket it was in my youth that I discovered that if you open up the system that yeah it's extremely unsafe to do so but you just might be saving the engine by giving it a place to go. Coolant boiling? Okay, as long as it's not boiling a hole in your head gasket but that's just speculation. Had more than my share of instances so now we're coming back to reality and normalcy. Maybe a Group 3 would allow easier seizing of a piston to a cylinder wall? over one with Group 4 or Group 5 oils... speculation, but, again, as to the discussion of formations.

Maybe it doesn't.

Maybe it does.

Extreme heat environment....

Any details beyond that I'm going to have to defer to a new thread or DMs since this thread is about the new Mobile 1 oil.
No oil can help with overheating or overheating binding. The problem with EJ engines is the case halves distort slightly when overheated and can bind the bearings and all the ones I have done have had lower torque on the head bolts. There are only 6 per head and when the case distorts they loosen. If the HG lets go or it starts knocking replace the engine or engine cases, to repair that damage takes a ton of machine work.
Never use aftermarket hoses on these engines, OE only and they are not much more money a couple of bucks if that.
 
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If you have an engine that does not dilute motor oil with fuel …
Which I don't have as the earth dream and current Honda engines live on oil and light beer(fuel and ethanol) in the sump. Trying to stay ahead of it by siphoning out some throughout the oci.
 

4WD

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Which I don't have as the earth dream and current Honda engines live on oil and light beer(fuel and ethanol) in the sump. Trying to stay ahead of it by siphoning out some throughout the oci.
Have done something similar with a Fumoto valve - then post warranty went from 0W20 to 5W30 …
 

4WD

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No oil can help with overheating or overheating binding. The problem with EJ engines is the case halves distort slightly when overheated and can bind the bearings and all the ones I have done have had lower torque on the head bolts. There are only 6 per head and when the case distorts they loosen. If the HG lets go or it starts knocking replace the engine or engine cases, to repair that damage takes a ton of machine work.
Never use aftermarket hoses on these engines, OE only and they are not much more money a couple of bucks if that.
What helps is turning off that motor immediately at the first sign of trouble 😷
 
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I was in Walmart today the revision number is now 6611, before it was 5888 or 5588 or something like that.
IMG_20221029_162517463_HDR.jpg
 
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I used to like M1 EP 0W-20 for its PAO content, but now that Mobil has largely replaced PAO with GTL, what's the point of buying M1 over Pennzoil Platinum?
 
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The alternative may have been to produce the oil with the same PAO percentages as before and then Jack up their prices.

Then there would have been a thread on Mobil1 getting too expensive.
 
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