While that is possible , I basically haven't had a single issue with the engine except for P0420 monitor and my battle with it presently since I got the hose and coolant situation replaced and bleeded (replaced hose bled system no coolant lost I check it regular. temp gauge stays put)
And I'd love to share my findings but for now I'm going to have to refrain from commenting on it further because its not going to be thread derailed today.
Maybe to people that would like to know. Maybe.
The whole point of my post was that I absolutely had to hire quality motor oils in the engine at that time and I spoke with someone at length about how it did turn off by itself pretty much at the same time I noticed the temperature gauge spiking (right after gave it gas to accelerate. Down block from my home) and the takeaways that were observed were the following:
1. " it shut off by itself so that tells me something got hot enough to seize, stop the rotation of the engine, maybe a ring to a wall" may have been said, this is a month and a half ago at this point and many thousands of miles ago. Incident-free.. from the anonymous source I quote. Can't cite the person. Sorry.
2. High quality motor oil was credited with being able to immediately restart it. Makes sense, since oil lubricates the cylinder wall in the 4-stroke cycle. Oil rings, oil control rings, scrape.
3. Was able to restart after "30 seconds" of assessing the situation and get it back home it was definitely a close call and the problem was later traced to a blown hose with a pinhole leak that let coolant out enough for that to happen.
Put at least 2000 miles, more like double that plus since this happened. No issues. No signs .
That's how this post got in the post about the motor oil here.
And it has been my experience that if you drive a car that is overheating long enough it will turn off by itself and if you leave the coolant cap on then all that Steam and pressure has nowhere to go and that's when you end up with a blown head gasket it was in my youth that I discovered that if you open up the system that yeah it's extremely unsafe to do so but you just might be saving the engine by giving it a place to go. Coolant boiling? Okay, as long as it's not boiling a hole in your head gasket but that's just speculation. Had more than my share of instances so now we're coming back to reality and normalcy. Maybe a Group 3 would allow easier seizing of a piston to a cylinder wall? over one with Group 4 or Group 5 oils... speculation, but, again, as to the discussion of formations.
Maybe it doesn't.
Maybe it does.
Extreme heat environment....
Any details beyond that I'm going to have to defer to a new thread or DMs since this thread is about the new Mobile 1 oil.