New Lubes / CLP's You Want To Try In 2017 ?

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Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Teflon is thought by some to be a bad idea in a bore. That is why I quit using BreafFree CLP.


Breakfree CLP hasn't had Teflon it for more than a decade, per their tech support.

Edit: Website says they have PTFE in it. Who knows ???



It may not have "teflon" as in the Du Pont trademark PTFE, but some other PTFE. Sort of like how Liquid Wrench has their "Cerflon" modified version of PTFE
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Teflon is thought by some to be a bad idea in a bore. That is why I quit using BreafFree CLP.


Breakfree CLP hasn't had Teflon it for more than a decade, per their tech support.

Edit: Website says they have PTFE in it. Who knows ???


I don't see a problem with Gun Oil with PTFE inside the bore. But it could present a problem when not properly maintained on the moving parts / action.
 
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Ptfe is another anti wear additive for firearms. It does not cause any problems and does not solve any either. Some of the best products with the lowest wear test results have Ptfe and some dont. If you like the ptfe, go for it. If not, don't bother.

Both mil-comm and super lube have high doses of ptfe. Give those a try and see what you think. I have used them both and they are both excellent. I like super lube better because it is much cheaper and easier to find. Mil-comm is great but too expensive IMO.

Chlorinated compounds such as chlorinated solvents and esters are the ones that can cause stress cracking but I doubt you will ever see it. The metal would have to soak in the chlorinated compounds for long periods of time. On top of that, there are usually other ingredients that stop any cracking anyway. I really wish people would stop worrying about this. I don't know where it started or why but the Internet keeps spreading it.
 
Originally Posted By: AMC
I really wish people would stop worrying about this. I don't know where it started or why but the Internet keeps spreading it.


+100. I couldn't agree more. Worry about the asteroid coming. It's got a much better chance of causing harm than chlorinated esters on a gun.
 
IIRC, the chlorinated solvents were used during threading of revolver barrels and frames. Said barrels and/or frames had higher rates of stress cracks. A long and detailed investigation determined that this formulation would be bad news for any machining of any steel that would be subjected to the intermittent pressure spikes such as gun barrels. I like brake cleaner for my guns, but I always buy non-chlorinated just to be on the safe side.
 
Chlorinated solvent. Key word there is solvent. Even if you do use a chlorinated solvent on your guns, because it is a solvent, it isnt going to stay on the metal long enough to hurt anything. It is going to flash off before anything cold possibly happen.

Threading a revolver barrel would involve cutting forces on bare, soft, non heat treated or coated steel. Something you probably won't find on most modern firearms anyway, certainly not during a normal firearm cleaning.

I suppose if you are going to thread a barrel after your range session, don't use a chlorinated cutting fluid.....
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Just say'n - if I was the owner of a gun lube company that used chlorinated materials (of any type) I would look to change the recipe ... For marketing if for nothing else .
 
95 out of 100 have no clue about clorination in gun oils.

95 in 100 have no clue what a good gun oil is.

for instance:
I was in ****'s Sporting Goods yesterday. They sell four different gun oils. When in that aisle to check their muzzleloader supplies, one guy ran with old-school Hoppes and the other with Rem-Oil. The two boutique oils sit there and collect dust..... Hoppes Elite and MPro7.
 
Lube : If you run dry before your next life , try M1 20W 50 V-Twin Synthetic Motorcycle Oil + Dexron VI ATF (synthetic as well) - only slightly more expensive than what you are using for lube now . Supposedly a favorite mix of the gun lube home brewers .
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I only use 1 CLP and 2 lubes. CLP-GRIZZLY GREASE. Lubes-3 IN 1 OIL, or, a mixture of 90% 10W30 M1 oil + 10% MERCON V trans fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Lube : If you run dry before your next life , try M1 20W 50 V-Twin Synthetic Motorcycle Oil + Dexron VI ATF (synthetic as well) - only slightly more expensive than what you are using for lube now . Supposedly a favorite mix of the gun lube home brewers .
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I only use 1 CLP and 2 lubes. CLP-GRIZZLY GREASE. Lubes-3 IN 1 OIL, or, a mixture of 90% 10W30 M1 oil + 10% MERCON V trans fluid.

Thanks for the tip. I'm open minded to try anything that seems like a good thing.
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''Good thing'' oils for handguns don't smell bad like motor oil or ATF. I take home a measely $365 per week (retiree not on social security yet) and I can afford a bottle of real gun oil once every couple years.

Non-toxic - non-smelly and safe on the environment and front trouser pocket. Won't run either.
 
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Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
......I can afford a bottle of real gun oil once every couple years.


I'm still waiting for someone to tell me what makes..... "real gun oil"?
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
''Good thing'' oils for handguns don't smell bad like motor oil or ATF. I take home a measely $365 per week (retiree not on social security yet) and I can afford a bottle of real gun oil once every couple years.

Non-toxic - non-smelly and safe on the environment and front trouser pocket. Won't run either.

To me, it's not a matter of money. It's what was handed down to me by my grandfather, THAT WORKS! Back in the day when he was a young un coming up (born in 1904) they didn't have all of the "boutique" gun oils and lubes like they have today. My dad has most of his firearms that he used from a youth up until he passed away in 1996. And, they are still in great operating condition.
Sure, I have a container of GRIZZLY GREASE CLP. I also have a HOPPES gun cleaning kit. The GG was rated as one of the top (4) CLP's of 2016, AMAZON sells it, I'm an AMAZON PRIME member, so, I wanted to try it. And I will admit it, it's some darn good CLP! My gun cleaning kit, that's a no brainer as to why I need that. And, I have used the solvent and oil in the kit, but, maybe once or twice.
 
BlueOval

Ballistol is another product that works well and is safe to use, store and safe to enter landfills. But every bottle or can of Ballistol should come with nose plugs. It's not that the smell is harmful. It just smells too mediciney....lol
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Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
BlueOval

Ballistol is another product that works well and is safe to use, store and safe to enter landfills. But every bottle or can of Ballistol should come with nose plugs. It's not that the smell is harmful. It just smells too mediciney....lol
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I definitely know that smell! GRIZZLY GREASE smells like Vicks Vapor Rub.
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
GRIZZLY GREASE smells like Vicks Vapor Rub.
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Most likely because it contains Camphor. Machinist's used to keep a cake of Camphor in their tool chests, to prevent their tools from rusting. Works good in gun safes as well. Especially in humid climates.
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
BlueOval

Ballistol is another product that works well and is safe to use, store and safe to enter landfills. But every bottle or can of Ballistol should come with nose plugs. It's not that the smell is harmful. It just smells too mediciney....lol
smirk.gif



Ballistol just smells like anise/black licorice to me.
 
For slides , connectors / sears , locking lugs and outside of barrels (semi - autos) have a look at this : http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease . Applied out of a syringe (just save and re-use an old grease syringe ) and apply conservatively (the small tub available online and shipped to store at most auto parts stores ) . Upon additional research - the 1911 crowd really like this grease as it works well and most of all stays put where you place it . As for smell , while it is said to have a slight grease smell - you use so little of it in intended places I don't believe it would be objectionable . Most traditional gun greases are lithium based so nothing out of bounds here . Lastly , just a suggestion as most of us Bob guys are regulars to auto parts stores for one reason or another ...
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For slides , connectors / sears , locking lugs and outside of barrels (semi - autos) have a look at this : http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease . Applied out of a syringe (just save and re-use an old grease syringe ) and apply conservatively (the small tub available online and shipped to store at most auto parts stores ) . Upon additional research - the 1911 crowd really like this grease as it works well and most of all stays put where you place it . As for smell , while it is said to have a slight grease smell - you use so little of it in intended places I don't believe it would be objectionable . Most traditional gun greases are lithium based so nothing out of bounds here . Lastly , just a suggestion as most of us Bob guys are regulars to auto parts stores for one reason or another ...


Lithium grease is a bit too sticky and thick for most firearms. Your gun has to have really high slide velocity / operating force in order to benefit from a grease that sticky and tacky. In 22's and some semi-autos that have a very low slide velocity, you can actually glue the gun together and CAUSE malfunctions with a very sticky grease.

I prefer super lube grease for guns. It is a high performance grease but has a softer, smoother, less tacky consistency than any type of lithium grease I have tried. Even at that, I still prefer a thicker oil to use as general purpose firearms lubricant. My M1A and sometimes my AR-15 are about the only guns I ever use super lube grease on. The rest get some type oil, usually Corrosion-X.
 
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