G96 Synthetic Mil - Spec Oil ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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All I can say is that I have used G96 for decades on stored guns. After cleaning, I always run a G96 patch through the bore and treat the internal and external metal surfaces of the gun with G96. Never had a spot of rust and my guns always functioned perfectly.
It does have an NSN number, for whatever that means. I have used the bore solvent and it works very good. An overnight soak yielded bluish patches, and an inspection via a Lyman Bore camera revealed copper removal as advertised. I dont generally do that, but wanted to test it out.
I have used G96 clp in the past, just to see how my guns reacted to it. I found no reason not to use the G96 over others. It performed like it should. I do not have any right now, but would not hesitate to use G96. That said, I see no advantages of it over other either.
I have used G96 clp in the past, just to see how my guns reacted to it. I found no reason not to use the G96 over others. It performed like it should. I do not have any right now, but would not hesitate to use G96. That said, I see no advantages of it over other either.
I use a similar product that has the same NSN number-- it's excellent stuff. I just buy from a different vendor because I got a whole gallon for a good price and on a per-ounce basis is super cheap that way.
To initially clean I prefer to buy the G96 Nitro solvent in the aerosol cans.
Then do a second clean with the G96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol cans.
I have used Synthetic CLP Gun Oil and the Synthetic Bio-CLP Gun Oil both were purchased in the 4 oz plastic squeeze bottle.
All the products worked very well I was pleased with the results.
My only beef is with the 4 oz plastic bottle CLP and that is I can’t use it all up with in 2 years. After 2 years I suspect all the solvent portion has migrated out through the high density plastic bottle so all that is left is a good gun oil but without the cleaning ability that the solvent provided.
That’s why I switched to the aerosol version, its in metal can that guarantees the solvent portion will always be present when used.
Also I like to be able to use the force of the aerosol spray from the straw to oil into the trigger and sear areas without doing a full disassembly of the frame components.
Then do a second clean with the G96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol cans.
I have used Synthetic CLP Gun Oil and the Synthetic Bio-CLP Gun Oil both were purchased in the 4 oz plastic squeeze bottle.
All the products worked very well I was pleased with the results.
My only beef is with the 4 oz plastic bottle CLP and that is I can’t use it all up with in 2 years. After 2 years I suspect all the solvent portion has migrated out through the high density plastic bottle so all that is left is a good gun oil but without the cleaning ability that the solvent provided.
That’s why I switched to the aerosol version, its in metal can that guarantees the solvent portion will always be present when used.
Also I like to be able to use the force of the aerosol spray from the straw to oil into the trigger and sear areas without doing a full disassembly of the frame components.
High Density Polyethylene is permeable - you are absolutely right about that - so, I understand the switch.
I have a big can of the G96 CLP. It's good stuff.
I have not (at least to my knowledge ?) used Break Free, but I do use Synthetic G96 CLP (along with some other products.) It typically seems to work well for me. Most of the time I clean, lube and preserve my firearms with Synthetic G96 CLP.
Any gun cleaning products that advertise as being a CLP must have some type of solvent mixed with the oil.
The solvent is there to do the job of removing fouling of all types.
Further to my #5 post above, I want to add that I first use non stinky M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner for the initial cleaning.
This product is great for carbon removal. Then I dry of the all metal treated with M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner because it is water based (no it won’t cause rust due to it chemical make up).
I dry off the metal so the next chemical I use the G96 Gun Treatment aerosol spray being oil based won’t float on the water.
I have found doing this 2 step cleaning procedure removes the most fouling with the least amount of work.
I shoot a lot of plated and cast bullets I have found using J.B. Bore Bright (the red stuff) mixed with Kroil oil (a super penetrating oil) works wonders at quickly removing the few gray streaks in the first 2” ahead of the chamber.
I use the G96 Gun Treatment to remove the JB and leave the G96 on as the metal final CLP oiling.
There are a great many gun cleaning products on the market all tout they are the best but G96 actually paid the US military to test their products and got milspec approved for both their Bio and traditional CLP products.
The solvent is there to do the job of removing fouling of all types.
Further to my #5 post above, I want to add that I first use non stinky M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner for the initial cleaning.
This product is great for carbon removal. Then I dry of the all metal treated with M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner because it is water based (no it won’t cause rust due to it chemical make up).
I dry off the metal so the next chemical I use the G96 Gun Treatment aerosol spray being oil based won’t float on the water.
I have found doing this 2 step cleaning procedure removes the most fouling with the least amount of work.
I shoot a lot of plated and cast bullets I have found using J.B. Bore Bright (the red stuff) mixed with Kroil oil (a super penetrating oil) works wonders at quickly removing the few gray streaks in the first 2” ahead of the chamber.
I use the G96 Gun Treatment to remove the JB and leave the G96 on as the metal final CLP oiling.
There are a great many gun cleaning products on the market all tout they are the best but G96 actually paid the US military to test their products and got milspec approved for both their Bio and traditional CLP products.
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Like Boomer said above; been using it for years, light cleaning, wipe downs, long term storage. For oiling/shooting purposes I like something a bit heavier, like Sllip 2000 and use that almost exclusively on my 1911's as it seems to stick in place really well.
Imho, CLP is meant as an all-in-one for cases like war or long hunting trips, when you need something but not necessarily the best. Otherwise, use proper cleaner and oil to remove carbon, copper or lead and lube. Hunters may want oils that don't give off any smell depending on what they hunt. There are products that remove copper and lead very well and general cleaners that don't leave oily residue after use.
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