New car question

[DAC17]

I'm going to buy a new Subaru Outback XT (turbo) that been on the dealer's lot since May of 2005, but has only 41 miles on it. Should I: a) leave the current oil in the car and do a 1500 mile break-in; b) change the oil now to a good dino; or c) put in a good synthetic now?

Thanks.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Answer a)

 

[coal68]

Yeah go with A) then switch to a top shelf synthetic.

 

[tweeker43]

tell the dealership that your purchase is contingent on an oil change.

 

[SWS]

I bought my '03 Civic new at the dealer in Feb-04 and I have documentation that it arrived at his lot a full 1 year earlier. It had just a few miles on it. From sitting there so long the tires were very flat-spotted and the battery was dead. I bought it for a good price, and drove it 4000 miles before the first oil-change. I kept a close watch on the fluid levels and color in the meantime. No unexpected changes and no oil consumption. I spoke to the Honda mechanic who changed the oil and he said it looked great - I know this mechanic personally so I trust him. I have used M1 5W-30 since the first oil change and now have almost 19K miles. My experience has been successful, and I hope that yours is too!

 

[Ray H]

My most recent UOA (posted 02/09/06) was on oil consisting of old bottles and partial bottles discovered while cleaning - no two were the same brand. The brew was in the sump for the better part of nine months just to rack up 3,000 miles. No problems were reported. To me, that raises questions about the conventional wisdom that oil has to be changed according to time in the engine. Accumulated use (operational hours/miles) I can definitely understand.

 

[LarryL]

Life on a dealer lot might be considered severe service. The car sits, maybe moved around from time to time and taken on test drives. These drivers might not take as much care with the car as you would. If the manual calls for a time/mileage interval for oil changes you could be overdue for an oil change before you take delivery. It would not cost too much to play it safe and have the dealer change the oil and filter with what ever conventional oil they use. To make the sale the dealer should do it for free, just to make you happy. And remember, the clock has already started for other maintenance, like the coolant, brake fluid and transmission fluid. If the car is a keeper, a little extra car pays off.

 

[Bill in Utah]

I'd change it.

Why, I see all the time here car Stealerships starting the cars and letting them Idle for hours with the flashers on to keep the battery up and such.

Or test drives...

I'd change it out (tell the dealer no deal unless they do change the oil) and then at 1000 miles.

Enjoy the new ride!

Bill

 

[Cutehumor]

Ray,

you bring up a good point. what's the difference if new bottled oil is sitting in a shed exposed to the cold and oil sitting in an engine in regards to a time based OCI.

 

[Bill in Utah]

quote:

---

what's the difference if new bottled oil is sitting in a shed exposed to the cold and oil sitting in an engine in regards to a time based OCI.

---

You don't have it mixed everytime the Lot boy wants to start up the new car to move it for test drives, clear off snow, charge up the battery, ETC.

Oil in a bottle is pure, safe and sound... (man I sound sick!

)

Take care, Bill

 

[Ray H]

I've always subscribed to changing out the factory-fill oil at between 500-600 miles after taking delivery on the assumption that there'd be factory leftovers flushed out and trapped in the oil filter and new-engine startup wear particles in circulation too small to be trapped. Really early-life UOAs show a lot of crud to support that notion. I'd never thought about the "severe service" angle of stealership lot attendants jockeying cars around and prospective buyer "test drives" (euphamism for "rev-the-snot-out-of-the-engine until the salesguy's knuckles turn white) - a couple more items to consider. Now, between that and my already locked-in-stone mindset for easy break-ins, I'll be impossibly anal about new engine care. Y'all've been warned...

 

[Al]

I just believe in changing right off the bat.

 

[Whimsey]

The wife bought a 2005 Explorer in July that was "born" Oct 2004. So it sat through the winter where they would start and idle it and it also went for a few test drives. They had to replace the battery before she bought it since it would not hold the charge. The dealer changed the oil as part of the sales agreement. I figured that since the oil was abused by the cold start idling and short test drives I wanted to have fresh oil. Maybe it wasn't needed but it made me feel better

.

Whimsey

 

[Ray H]

I understand and fully agree with your reasoning. Cold idling and insufficient warmup with short trips are a nasty regimen. I should've indicated in my post that 99%+ of the time I ever start my car, it gets fully warmed before I shut it down again.

 

[tamu_man]

I work for a dealership right now, and I would recommend a change at 500 or so. You have no idea what we do with these vehicles on lunch breaks, outings, floor plan changes, ect...

Usually the cars never get the chance to warm up, and they a driven like they are stolen. Tons of cold idles as well. All this on an engine that was just put together. Car sales people are mostly idiots and dropouts to begin with.

Change at 500 miles. The choice of synthetic or conventional is up to you, but considering that a change again at 3000 to rid the engine of smaller wear particles is rather quick, it would hardly justify puting an expensive oil in.

 

[BrianWC]

I think I'd worry about why the Outback sat on the lot so long!

 

[DAC17]

Primarily because it's a 5-speed manual XT turbo, and CT buyers are pretty boring!

 

[Wasuchi]

Get them to change it before you buy it..... it probably isn't easy to do if it's anything like my dad's Forester or my brother's WRX.

 

[BrianWC]

Well, 5 speeds do get tiresome after a bit....I just went to an auto myself. But with a subie you probably want a 5 speed to keep it in the sweet spot.

 

[AndyH]

Wasuchi writes: "Get them to change it before you buy it..... it probably isn't easy to do if it's anything like my dad's Forester or my brother's WRX."

Hmmm, not sure about the Forester or the WRX but changing the oil on my STi is a piece of cake (once you remove the plastic undertray). Both the drain plug and the filter are right there...with nothing in the way. One of the easiest cars I've ever changed the oil on. I'd have to imagine all of the Subaru boxer engines would be similar, if not the same.