My Skyactive 2.5L Piston Soak Story ... and the Comedy of Errors...

Nice write up.

What made me stop and think "Hmmmmmmm ...." was that after 100k+ miles of "high quality synthetics" and max of 5k mile OCIs, the rings still appeared to be in need of liberation. And here I have been told repeatedly on this site that syns and short OCIs were "cheap insurance" against such problems. Guess not, eh?
I'm with you. The outrage I would feel. The Sonata we had got totaled in March with 93k miles, was bought used in 2019 with 25k miles and that's the lowest mileage vehicle I've ever owned.

I gave it 4k OCIs with premium synthetics (QSUD 5W30), premium Top Tier gas and still got oil consumption as bad as a qt/500 miles by around 60k miles that persisted until the day of the wreck.
 
Who knows how the cars we bought used were treated and maintained. I bought mine at 20k-ish and it always burned a bit of oil...I just figured it was due to being a high compression GDI engine and lived with it. What started at 1 quart per 5k miles at 20k is now 1 quart per 2k miles at 145k.

This stuff is a hobby...if I can improve it while having some fun...great! If not...it is what it is!
 
That's a good idea. As the cylinders have zero lubrication after a B12 treatment. One could possibly end up with some minor but unwanted scoring.
@AdmiralYoda I am curious as to why, since you had the HPL EC, you didn't use that to cover the piston crowns and then rotate the crankshaft to work the EC into the ring pack. The EC has an addtive pack to prevent any wear or scoring.

Adding the EC to the engine oil should further help with any ring sticking.
 
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I have run EC30 twice - and now on VRP - cut several filters - nothing in any of them. No other HPL or Amsoil products have been in that motor.
I break them in gently. Last vehicle to burn oil =1979 PowerWagon …

Some issues are specific to a motor, PM, and patterns of driving …
 
I have run EC30 twice - and now on VRP - cut several filters - nothing in any of them. No other HPL or Amsoil products have been in that motor.
I break them in gently. Last vehicle to burn oil =1979 PowerWagon …

Some issues are specific to a motor, PM, and patterns of driving …
For sure. I am a frequent oil changer, use only synthetic oils, but when I ran EC and examined the filter (TG7317) I found carbon in the pleats (similar to what WWilson found in his filter) and some liquid sludge ran out of the filter.

 
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For sure. I am a frequent oil changer, use only synthetic oils, but when I ran EC and examined the filter (TG7317) I found carbon in the pleats (similar to what WWilson found in his filter) and some liquid sludge ran out of the filter.

I don’t doubt they work - in fact I also use EC30 as a spike fluid in a low mileage L84 bcs it’s a dealer based extended warranty with them changing the oil - 1/2 of OCI I swap 2 quarts from a Fumoto valve …
Figure the mono 30 puts some viscosity in to offset dilution …
I don’t get to see the oil go in - they tell me AC Delco?
Will likely burn a filter once in a while to cut one open …
My L83 was all Mobil 1 and it appears to be clean … but VRP is an average priced SP - so doing that a couple rounds …
I can’t manage owning an oil burner bcs I’m overseas too much …
 
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I haven't removed the valve cover (yet) but I think it is pretty clean based on what I can see through the oil fill hole. We bought the 2016 Mazda CX-5 in 2017 about 1 year after it was originally purchased by the original owner. The PO put 20k miles on it on the year she had it so who knows how it was treated and serviced. Maybe that has something to do with how it performed going forward, who knows?

From that point on it had 30k miles per year for about 3 years, mostly highway with good synthetic oil and 5k OCI's.

I feel like unless you buy it brand new...there is some luck involved when buying a used car no matter how good it looks.
 
I always wondered it the ATF/Acetone mix would be better as it penetrates rust better than anything else. Could it also penetrate coked up oil control rings better.
 
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