My Skyactive 2.5L Piston Soak Story ... and the Comedy of Errors...

Nice write up.

What made me stop and think "Hmmmmmmm ...." was that after 100k+ miles of "high quality synthetics" and max of 5k mile OCIs, the rings still appeared to be in need of liberation. And here I have been told repeatedly on this site that syns and short OCIs were "cheap insurance" against such problems. Guess not, eh?
I'm with you. The outrage I would feel. The Sonata we had got totaled in March with 93k miles, was bought used in 2019 with 25k miles and that's the lowest mileage vehicle I've ever owned.

I gave it 4k OCIs with premium synthetics (QSUD 5W30), premium Top Tier gas and still got oil consumption as bad as a qt/500 miles by around 60k miles that persisted until the day of the wreck.
 
Who knows how the cars we bought used were treated and maintained. I bought mine at 20k-ish and it always burned a bit of oil...I just figured it was due to being a high compression GDI engine and lived with it. What started at 1 quart per 5k miles at 20k is now 1 quart per 2k miles at 145k.

This stuff is a hobby...if I can improve it while having some fun...great! If not...it is what it is!
 
That's a good idea. As the cylinders have zero lubrication after a B12 treatment. One could possibly end up with some minor but unwanted scoring.
@AdmiralYoda I am curious as to why, since you had the HPL EC, you didn't use that to cover the piston crowns and then rotate the crankshaft to work the EC into the ring pack. The EC has an addtive pack to prevent any wear or scoring.

Adding the EC to the engine oil should further help with any ring sticking.
 
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I have run EC30 twice - and now on VRP - cut several filters - nothing in any of them. No other HPL or Amsoil products have been in that motor.
I break them in gently. Last vehicle to burn oil =1979 PowerWagon …

Some issues are specific to a motor, PM, and patterns of driving …
 
I have run EC30 twice - and now on VRP - cut several filters - nothing in any of them. No other HPL or Amsoil products have been in that motor.
I break them in gently. Last vehicle to burn oil =1979 PowerWagon …

Some issues are specific to a motor, PM, and patterns of driving …
For sure. I am a frequent oil changer, use only synthetic oils, but when I ran EC and examined the filter (TG7317) I found carbon in the pleats (similar to what WWilson found in his filter) and some liquid sludge ran out of the filter.

 
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For sure. I am a frequent oil changer, use only synthetic oils, but when I ran EC and examined the filter (TG7317) I found carbon in the pleats (similar to what WWilson found in his filter) and some liquid sludge ran out of the filter.

I don’t doubt they work - in fact I also use EC30 as a spike fluid in a low mileage L84 bcs it’s a dealer based extended warranty with them changing the oil - 1/2 of OCI I swap 2 quarts from a Fumoto valve …
Figure the mono 30 puts some viscosity in to offset dilution …
I don’t get to see the oil go in - they tell me AC Delco?
Will likely burn a filter once in a while to cut one open …
My L83 was all Mobil 1 and it appears to be clean … but VRP is an average priced SP - so doing that a couple rounds …
I can’t manage owning an oil burner bcs I’m overseas too much …
 
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I haven't removed the valve cover (yet) but I think it is pretty clean based on what I can see through the oil fill hole. We bought the 2016 Mazda CX-5 in 2017 about 1 year after it was originally purchased by the original owner. The PO put 20k miles on it on the year she had it so who knows how it was treated and serviced. Maybe that has something to do with how it performed going forward, who knows?

From that point on it had 30k miles per year for about 3 years, mostly highway with good synthetic oil and 5k OCI's.

I feel like unless you buy it brand new...there is some luck involved when buying a used car no matter how good it looks.
 
I always wondered it the ATF/Acetone mix would be better as it penetrates rust better than anything else. Could it also penetrate coked up oil control rings better.
 
Quick update.

Its been 9 weeks and about 2k miles since I started this thread when I did the piston soak and did an oil change with a quart of HPL's EP30. I used Castol Edge 5W-30 for the rest of the oil. This weekend I changed out the oil filter just in case it was loading up with gunk. I took a few pictures but honestly my lighting was poor and the pics were useless but I cut open the filter and overall it was very clean. Some carbon flecks inside the pleats which is what I think we are after but the filter certainly had plenty of life left.

As far as oil consumption goes....little to no improvement yet. It went through 1quart in 2k miles, about what I've been seeing previously.

I'm going to leave this oil in for another 1-1.5k miles to let the EC30 keep cleaning. Then I'm going to switch to HPL Premium Plus for an extended change. I normally change the oil at 3k, even synthetic, in this Mazda due to the GDI's potential fuel dilution and my wife driving lots of short trips. I'll send the HPL out for a UOA at 3k and 5k to see how its doing.

I may even try a can of BG's EPR 109 prior to switching to HPL. Maybe the EC30 is softening and slowly removing the hard carbon around the rings, if there is any at all. Maybe the BG EPR will help it along. Then maybe that will give the HPL oils the best chance at fully cleaning things up.

I plan to give HPL 2-3 OCI's (probably 5k miles) and re-evaluate the oil consumption. After all of this if it still burns oil, it is what it is, it is a mechanical problem not a ring or oil problem. But at the very least this engine is going to be clean enough to eat off of!

I may even switch to a 0W-40 or 5W-40 if I'm still burning oil. Mazda specs a 0W-20 in the owners manual for the US but specs 5W-30 virtually everywhere else in the world. I'm sure a 40W would be just fine and may even help the oil consumption.
 
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Update #2!

It has been 16 weeks and a total of 3k miles with the EC30. I haven't added any more oil since my update above. It is maybe a quarter of a quart low but I'm seeing some improvement! In the next week or two I'm going to be changing the oil and doing a little more overkill.

I'll be changing the oil to some fresh Wally World Supertech and adding a can of BG's EPR 109 to try and help loosen up anything left on those piston rings. I'll then run a quick OCI of Supertech to "rinse" the engine for a few hundred miles.

I have a case of HPL's Premium Plus 5W-30 on the way and hopefully that will clean things up even more!
 
I'n rally sorry! Im Beating a dead horse. Mobil1 5w30 Extended performance. or and 0w40 M1Euro formula.
Yea im not sorry.... To quote Lake Speed. "If you need engine oil additives you are using the wrong oil." Who is lake speed you ask. I dunno... You tell me!
 
My wife's 2016 Mazda CX-5 with the Skyactive 2.5L has been burning some oil as time has gone on. It has 145k miles on it now and runs pretty good. We've had it since it was 20k old and I've done all the maintenance work.

High quality synthetics at about 5k intervals, maybe sometimes up to 7.5k if time got away from me. Up until about 110k it was 90% highway miles but my wife's job changed and has driven around town alot since. Mostly short trips, stop and go, etc. Basically severe service. I've reduced the OCI to 3k since.

Regardless, it has always gone through a bit of oil and it will now be a quart low after about 2,000 miles. The oil gets dark pretty quick. I started a thread about using HPL's EC30 engine cleaner and it turned me on to doing a B12 piston soak. So here it goes and the comedy of errors that went along with it.....

The comedy of errors.......

I took the engine cover off as well as the ignition coils and spark plugs. The two inner cylinders were close to BDC and the two outer cylinders were close to TDC. Not at peak, but I'd say about 85% there. Good enough. It is near impossible to get to the crank bolt or even the accessory drive on this engine without removing a bunch of stuff, so I wasn't going to be rotating the engine at all. Oh well.

Error #1
I have a borescope!!!! I've used it a few times, its nothing special...just a cheapy Amazon unit. I decided to put it down one of the outer cylinders and things looked fine...but then turned a bit blurry. I took the borescope out...and about 1.5" of the outer plastic cable and the lens tip was missing!!!!!! Great! I looked down there with a flashlight and the end of the top of the plastic tube was BARELY still in the spark plug threads. I was able to wrap some duct tape around a long thin file and get it out. Thank GOD! Had that dropped into one of the inner cylinders that were further down the hole....I'd be removing the head to get it out!

Okay...on the the Berryman B12 piston soak! I drained the old oil and put the drain plug back in to see how much B12 made it to the bottom of the pan when this is all done. My plan was to add a shot glass (~1.5oz) to each cylinder every 3-4 hours over the course of the weekend, putting the spark plug back in after to prevent it from flashing off. I started at noon on Friday and after the 4th 9pm dose I noticed some B12 had come up into the threads in one of the cylinders...time to re-think things.

I used a wooden dowel as a dipstick to see how much B12 was still in the cylinders. There was alot! Each cylinder had about an inch in them! Okay...no need to add more for now. I decided to check again in the morning and there was still a fair amount left in the cylinders. Okay...I don't see the need to add anymore here, it had been soaking for over 24 hours. I waited a few more hours and decided to use my fluid transfer pump to suck the remaining fluid out. I ended up sucking about 10oz out of all the cylinders. I then decided to open the oil pan drain and see how much had made it past the pistons...probably another 10oz.

Error #2
There was inevitably some B12 left in the cylinders and this engine is high compression...so no room for extra fluid. I wanted to get all of it out as much as possible so I grabbed my 5 gallon Craftsman pancake style air compressor and was going to blow out anything remaining in the cylinders. Plug it in and turn it on.....BOOM!!!! The compressor motor committed suicide and cracked the block!!!! Okay....on to plan B.

I found the fuel pump fuse and took it out. With the spark plugs removed, the oil filter pre-filled with oil and fresh new oil in the engine I was just going to have to turn over the motor using the starter to blow any fluid out. I put an old blanket over the spark plug holes to catch any B12...that stuff will eat paint! The Mazda has a push button start, not like the old school ignition switch that would allow to click it over. My concern was....how long would it take before the starting process would time out? Well it turns out that is 8 seconds. After 8 seconds the computer decides to call it quits. Fine....good enough for me!

Error #3
Well this wasn't really an error....just a calamity haha. I put everything back together and it was time to fire it up....uh.....hello?!?!? It took a good two minutes with multiple tries to get it to start. It just didn't want to start, it would sputter for a second here and there but in general nothing....until finally...IT"S ALIVE!!!!!

Actually, it was running pretty good! It sounded really smooth and quiet so I let it idle for a couple minutes and then took it for a drive. I swear it feels and sounds peppier and at idle you can barely hear or feel the engine running. Time for an Italian tune up! I took it for a 40 mile drive on the highway in "Sport Mode" which keeps the RPM's up and gave it plenty of spirited full throttle runs.

Conclusions.....
Sorry for the long winded story but I wanted to capture this for future readers. The car runs noticeably better and now has a quart of HPL EC3 Engine Cleaner and 4 quarts of Castrol Edge 5W-30. I'll be changing (and cutting open) the filter at 1.5k miles and will probably change the oil at 3k miles. Maybe I'll do a treatment of BGR-EP to see if I can free up the oil side rings a bit more. I might do another round of HPL's Engine Cleaner before switching over to their oils for good for ultimate cleanliness.

I'll post updates as time goes on to the oil burning, color of the oil and with whatever ends up in the oil filter. Thanks BITOG!!!!
What oil weight and brand did you run for most of its life? How much short trip driving did you do?
 
I would like to read about someone who has an engine that burns oil and decides to pull each piston and inspect the rings looking for crud in the ring area that is preventing the rings from sealing properly.
 
What oil weight and brand did you run for most of its life? How much short trip driving did you do?
OEM recommended 0W-20 until about 120k miles with 5-6k OCI's. Mostly highway miles until 110k, then short tripping until 145k miles (current).

Changed to 5W-30 around 120k with 3-4k OCI's to try and slow down oil burning...and all my other cars use 5W-30 so it made sense.

Over the past 20k or so miles I've tried Hotshot's "Stiction Eliminator", VRP for 2 oil changes, a piston soak, currently EC30 and next up HPL Premium plus 5W-30. Seems to be helping.
 
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