My sister's 2000 Durango is FUBAR'ed!!

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This past October I purchased a 2001 DODGE Ram Quadcab, V8-318, 2WD, 3.55 open rear, 46RE, option-loaded; scaled at #5,000 with fuel/no load or driver. Had 86m on the clock. Carfax reported no problems; t'was one owner commuting 20 annually, and appeared in very good condition. Was able to purchase at not much above auction/wholesale.

First order of business was to add about 12-ozs of LUBE CONTROL LC-20 (Odis did the honors), and used FUEL POWER FP-60 at every tank. Oil was fresh 10w30 (unknown dino), generic filter.

Was unable to do any work to vehicle until March (had to finish a house remodel and sell), and ran that initial fill about 8k with LC-20 (3-ozs) every 700-1000 miles.

Fuel mileage was below EPA numbers. Under oil filler cap was light-brown/golden-brown varnish, slightly sludgy. LC removed "sludginess" right away. Oil darkened considerably, but did not blacken. Oil consumption was a little under a quart (changed filter to one noted below early on; pan was overfilled and this change brought it to "level").

At about 94k, pulled sparkplugs, ran three ozs LC-20 into each cylinder (hot), cranked over at one hour ("topped off" each cylinder with more LC-20) and let sit overnight. Truck was idled for about 15 minutes from cold, and then driven about 5 miles until smoke cleared. Was very smoky, almost as bad as my old '71 Chrysler with worn rings. Spark plugs 6 & 8 were considerably darker than the rest.

Major tune-up performed with best-possible parts. No problems with old parts noted beyond those appropriate to age and miles. TBI removed and overhauled (IAC replaced).
Oil was sighted in rear of intake through throttle bores (a problem with this engine; DC has revised parts available).

Oil was replaced with DELO HDEO 10w30 (found at FORD big truck dealer) and an ARX clean-up ensued (ATF, PSF and axle oil also dosed and then changed to SCHAEFFERS 204-S and REDLINE 75W-90NS, respectively in complete service/flush & drain). A BALDWIN B2-HPG oil filter is the filter of choice. Now at 99k and oil is REDLINE 5W-40, dosed with 6-ozs LC-20.

The LC got through to the "sludginess", the ARX helped improve overall performance; and the major tune and fluids change have improved highway mileage from 15 or so to 17-19 mpg.

The intake will be serviced soon, but the "problem" of internal engine cleanliness is otherwise under way to improvement. A second ARX run will be done after intake and timing chain/water pump/etc, as well as returning coolant thermostat to 195F. REDLINE/LC-20/BALDWIN is a solid combo when used in conjunction with FP-60.

More will need to be done to it for longevity purposes (heavier electrical cabling/extra grounds/auxiliary filters/shift kit & deep pan/etc), but monies spent will pay off in long run.

This is the fourth vehicle I have used these products with, over a period of more than two years and over 60m combined miles of use.

What that Durango needs is to bring it up to -- and get a little ahead of -- factory-recommended service for its time & age, and the promise to take it out every 3-6 weeks and put 100 miles of highway driving on it.

And that it should go to the dealer twice annually, spring & summer, so that maintenance and repairs are kept to realistic level, and that professional mechanics with factory-training and supplies/parts can stay ahead of problems. One needs to search out the best local Dodge dealer and service writer.

If ones relative finds this to be too much trouble, then I'd allow them a smiling "Good luck", and be about my own business. One cannot force another, many cannot even be persuaded that scheduled service -- by the right organization -- puts money in their pocket. Those many would rather eat tens of thousands of dollars in depreciation monies than to change their ways.

PM me if you like.

Good luck

[ June 03, 2005, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
 
Brian,

Just change the oil & filter with some fresh and cheap dino and not worry to much about the goo you saw.

Then take the vehicle out on a good 100-200 mile run and then while the engine is still hot drain it and swap the oil and filter again.

Since you are taken care of your sis then be sure to do some more low mile OCI for her with some more cheap dino oil. After a few oil changes then go with Mobil or AMSOIL sys for longer OCI's.
 
quote:

Originally posted by VNT:

quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
VNT - what facts do I need to straighten? While I do agree that the owner did neglect the car, any engine should be able to go 10K/year with two oil changes per year without severely sludging. Is this a good practice given the short trips? Heck no - use a better oil or change more frequently. Not sure why you are challenging me so abruptly but I stand by the facts in this case.

Chrysler has issues with sludge. The 4.7 included.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_dur_oil.html

http://www.dodge-durango-center.com/dodge-durango-sludge.html

http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=122&did=1113


Pablo

These types of links(last one deals with the 2.7 of which 650 of 750,000 engine
have a known/documented sludge issue) are useless complaint oriented webpages which I could dig up on just about any make or model if I looked on the internet.

Here are some links to the 4.7, do a little reading about it, last link shows 4.7 during HO cam install, looks clean to me

http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Cammer/4_7_v8.html
http://www.wjjeeps.com/engine.htm
http://www.dodgeboy.net/durango/47ho/pages/PC273048_JPG.htm


Dang...VNT. You are a true brand loyalist! I thought the Dodge sludge issue was old news?

Pablo is right on the money...some of those D.C. engines have some major design issues. No denying it.
 
Why does no one complain about 4.7 sludge issues on the premier dodge website www.dodgetalk.com ??

I had a 4.7 for 3 years and it was nothing but a please to drive. I am afraid I also call BS on 4.7 sludge in a normaly/regularly maintained vehicle.
 
Long thread and I don't know if anyone answered this. The "brown shoe polish" on the filter plate is probably some kind of gasket shellac, or possibly Permatex.

I don't know why anyone would use it to "seal" a filter though...

dunno.gif
 
Wow, thanks for the all of the information.I planned on running short OCI's, but what the heck is that brown stuff on the plate? I just think the car needs to get on the highway once or twice a month and run it. Thanks again for all of your help! I will keep you posted
 
G-Man II, If he switch's here to Amsoil S3K or Redline then the 1 mile comute to and from work plus 5K-7K OCI should not be a problem. I want to add that 1 year oil change should always be the max reguardless of milage!
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
G-Man II, If he switch's here to Amsoil S3K or Redline then the 1 mile comute to and from work plus 5K-7K OCI should not be a problem.

Baloney. The engine needs to be cleaned out. It no doubt has blocked passages and possibly a few clogged pushrods as well as a partially clogged oil pump screen. (Pushrods if it is the OHV V8 or V6. I don't remember reading which engine it has.) A simple switch to synthetic oil is NOT going to clean up this mess.
 
Did anyone mention that he should do a UOA?

From the the posts about PCV's...

If they only cost $4, that's even more reason to change it. It's freaking $4!

I changed the PCV that was about 65k miles old on my 140k mile 96 Crown Vic.

It rattled like it worked.

Changed it and switched from MoCraft 5-30 to ValMaxLife Syn 10-30.

Oil consumption was reduced from 1 qt every 700-800 miles to 1 qt every 1200-1500 miles.

I think the PCV was the culprit, I doubt the Syn Maxlife reduced it that much.

He should drop 1 can of Seafoam in the crankcase and let it idle for 10-20 minutes before he does the next oil change on her Durango.
 
Been away. Anyway, I too wasn't bashing the 4.7, there are millions on the road running fine. However, I have seen more than a few threads dealing with similar problems of the original post--the one common factor, and maybe I should have clarrified-was short trip driving where the vehicle never really warms. I know short trip driving doesn't lead to problems with other engines, but maybe this combination with what appears to be questionable care, and short trip with this engine is a problem. I would love to have the 4.7 in my Dakota myself, as it makes excellent power and gets almost the same mileage as my 3.9, but I drive 80 miles a day so I know I wouldn't have this issue regardless. Short OCI and some highway driving.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JHZR2:
Ive never changed mine on my 98 ZR2 (my BMW doesnt have one), and it doesnt look dirty or gummed in the slightest, it rattles freely, and doing the finger over test with the engine running shows that it seemingly works great. 50k and looks brand new - seriously. My impression is that theyre just trying to sell more $3.99 PCV valves. is there something else I should cinsider if every time I take it out to check it it looks brand new?

Thanks,

JMH


I thought the same thing. I changed what might have been the OE one in my Caprice at just under 200k. Made absolutely no difference, the old one was fine. I don't believe in changing PCVs like oil, unless that particular engine needs it. Mine sure didn't.
 
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