Mazda Moly 0w-20 5.2k mi; 2016 Mazda CX-5 2.5L n/a 77k mi

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Longtime lurker/studier of BITOG and as a result, started doing UOAs on our family’s vehicles about a year or so ago. Reason I’m reaching out is for some guidance/info on the recent UOA on our 2016 Mazda CX-5 with the 2.5L NA Skyactiv motor that we’ve owned since new and that has roughly 77,000 miles on it. I’ll try to provide any info that might be helpful, but please let me know if you need additional info.

Maintenance, Care and & Typical Driving Conditions: We live about 30 miles outside San Francisco. I’m beyond picky with the car, religiously running OEM filters and the 0W-20 Mazda Moly oil with OCIs of 5000 miles or once-a-year. It’s my wife’s vehicle and she drives about 8 miles back and forth to work, 80% highway on her commute. Typical Commute Conditions: She goes about 2 miles down a country road before climbing up a steep on-ramp onto the freeway, at which point it’s pretty much down-hill-to-mostly flat all the way to work. On the way home, city streets for roughly 4 miles, then climbing up a ramp to the freeway and mostly flat all the way home.

Outside of her commute, it sees at least as much city and in town driving as her short highway commute and once a week it gets a 60-70 mile round trip mostly on the freeway.

I’ve asked my wife to drive it easy while it’s cold, unless she needs to accelerate to stay safe, otherwise she’s a brisk driver but not one to hammer the gas all the time. I drive it even slower than her, but at least once a month, after our long highway stint I will roll into it some or to the floor, mostly just for fun.

Observations Before this recent UOA: In addition to being beyond picky, I have a nose and ears for cars and any little thing that sounds (sometimes smells) different tingles my Spidey-Senses. That said, a few times just after start up over the past 3-4 months, if I’m standing behind the Mazda when it fires-up, I swear I get a slight smell of burnt oil before the expected rich cold-start smell. I don’t see any blue smoke, it doesn’t seem to be using any oil (but I’ve started keeping an even closer eye on the oil level now).

Additionally, and again, with super sensitive hearing I just could be making a mountain out of a mole hill, when the engine is cold, just after start up it sounds like either that faint hollow sound whir of piston slap (noticed it about a year ago) or what could be just the start of a bearing in something going, like the faint whir of the AC compressor pulley aging, power steering, alternator etc.

Oil Filter Caveat: There are three UOAs from Black Stone on the car. All are using the Mazda 0w-20 Moly Oil but the first two changes are with the Mazda value line OEM filter made in Mexico, the latest is with the OEM Mazda oil filter made in Thailand. *For reference, the current fill (about 2000 miles into this OCI) I’m using the same oil, but switched to the OEM Mazda Tokyo filter from Japan that I’m told is what they use from the factory.

UOA Concerns (higher aluminum and iron): UOAs have been pretty consistent up until now. Now aluminum and iron are elevated. Piston wear? Is the car being driven too hard while it’s cold (accelerating up the ramp, etc.), at 77,000 miles should I switch to a different oil? The hints of oil on cold start that I swear I’m sometimes smelling, is that connected or could that be the beginnings of a faulty PCV valve? Any insight would be helpful. And if I'm jumping the gun and being too paranoid, happy to hear that too. I've just done a lot of reading on how these 2.5L NA Skyactiv motors don't typically show high wear at this mileage and that they seem to be long-lived, especially the earlier ones in the Gen 1 CX-5s (not the updated ones in the 2017 and newer that sometimes seem to have lifter issues and other things).

For now going to stay the course, but maybe I should drop the oil at 3000 just to be safe or should I continue to 5000 so I have more of an apples-to-apples to the other OCIs?

Thanks!

16 CX5-Oil Analysis Edited JPEG.webp
 
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The report looks fine to me. This looks like noise, and a sample size of one doesn't indicate a trend yet. For all we know this batch of oil could have started off with a 2-3ppm for Fe and Al and the other samples at zero. I see no reason not to continue with 5k OCIs.
Unless u do a VOA per batch, u will not know absolutely what the baseline Fe and Al levels are.

I did mine on HPL Euro with VII 5w-30
 
Thank you all, learned something new. Never thought to send a VOA along with the UOI, brilliant! Also just assumed that the oils were perfectly consistent from bottle or batch to the next...I can now see that wasn't a safe assumption. In fact, kinda feel foolish now, ha ha. Maybe I'll do a VOA next go around.
Thank you all!
 
@CX-5Alive do u pre-fill ur oil filter when doing an oil change?
It's interesting you say that. I absolutely do, but on this OCI it was the first time I got some first-start rattle and it startled me. It's never done that so it disappointed me. Maybe I didn't fill the oil filter with enough oil? I know the oil filter initially appears full, but then absorbs the oil and the level lowers, necessitating that I add more to bring the level up--I do that 2-3 times until it's thoroughly topped...maybe I didn't wait long enough to make sure it was really topped? It bothered me enough that I went hunting on the interwebs to see if there was a "flood mode" with the CX-5 to see if I could crank the motor over without firing it...all I could find kinda scared me, as I wasn't convinced I could remove my foot from the gas quick enough to not have it rev up: https://www.mazdaoflodi.com/blog/how-to-start-a-mazda-with-a-flooded-engine/

Wonder if that's the reason for the higher aluminum and iron? I know on the current OCI with the Toyko filter, I didn't get the dry fire valvetrain noise. Filled the filter like always, made triply sure that the oil filter soaked and kept absorbing oil until it was thoroughly topped, and then, not sure this did anything, but bumped the car over 6-7 times with the key. I'd release the brake after a revolution or two, but before it started. Did that 6-7 times, but not convinced that did anything.
 
It's interesting you say that. I absolutely do, but on this OCI it was the first time I got some first-start rattle and it startled me. It's never done that so it disappointed me. Maybe I didn't fill the oil filter with enough oil? I know the oil filter initially appears full, but then absorbs the oil and the level lowers, necessitating that I add more to bring the level up--I do that 2-3 times until it's thoroughly topped...maybe I didn't wait long enough to make sure it was really topped? It bothered me enough that I went hunting on the interwebs to see if there was a "flood mode" with the CX-5 to see if I could crank the motor over without firing it...all I could find kinda scared me, as I wasn't convinced I could remove my foot from the gas quick enough to not have it rev up: https://www.mazdaoflodi.com/blog/how-to-start-a-mazda-with-a-flooded-engine/

Wonder if that's the reason for the higher aluminum and iron? I know on the current OCI with the Toyko filter, I didn't get the dry fire valvetrain noise. Filled the filter like always, made triply sure that the oil filter soaked and kept absorbing oil until it was thoroughly topped, and then, not sure this did anything, but bumped the car over 6-7 times with the key. I'd release the brake after a revolution or two, but before it started. Did that 6-7 times, but not convinced that did anything.
The nite before my oil change, I usually pre-fill my oil filter. U can’t rush things if u want to execute with perfection. I am very reluctant allowing a dealer to do the oil change unless I can supply a pre-filled filter.
 
It's interesting you say that. I absolutely do, but on this OCI it was the first time I got some first-start rattle and it startled me. It's never done that so it disappointed me. Maybe I didn't fill the oil filter with enough oil? I know the oil filter initially appears full, but then absorbs the oil and the level lowers, necessitating that I add more to bring the level up--I do that 2-3 times until it's thoroughly topped...maybe I didn't wait long enough to make sure it was really topped? It bothered me enough that I went hunting on the interwebs to see if there was a "flood mode" with the CX-5 to see if I could crank the motor over without firing it...all I could find kinda scared me, as I wasn't convinced I could remove my foot from the gas quick enough to not have it rev up: https://www.mazdaoflodi.com/blog/how-to-start-a-mazda-with-a-flooded-engine/

Wonder if that's the reason for the higher aluminum and iron? I know on the current OCI with the Toyko filter, I didn't get the dry fire valvetrain noise. Filled the filter like always, made triply sure that the oil filter soaked and kept absorbing oil until it was thoroughly topped, and then, not sure this did anything, but bumped the car over 6-7 times with the key. I'd release the brake after a revolution or two, but before it started. Did that 6-7 times, but not convinced that did anything.
It's fine. Remember, some aluminum comes in the oil, itself.
 
Looks pretty normal to me but yes, the Al rise looks out of place but with only 3 data points, could just be normal sample variation/noise. The prev. two had a bit of fuel...what I have seen from dozens of BS UOAs and their flashpoint method of determining fuel, those FPs are pretty low so you did likely have a noteable amount of fuel those prev. two times but hard to say exactly without directly measuring it. Just do another 5K change and UOA and see where the numbers/trends go. Why the Mazda oil just curious? B/c it has a lot of moly in it? Can also bump up to a 0/5W30 if you want a bit more viscosity over the 0W20. HPL has a lot of moly in it and may be an option to look at.
 
Thank you all, learned something new. Never thought to send a VOA along with the UOI, brilliant! Also just assumed that the oils were perfectly consistent from bottle or batch to the next...I can now see that wasn't a safe assumption. In fact, kinda feel foolish now, ha ha. Maybe I'll do a VOA next go around.
Thank you all!
It appears that the Mazda moly 0w-20 blend may have changed and injected uncertainty into ur uoa analysis. If the Fe and Al ppm did not change then it would be more certain that the blend remained constant and there is no need for a voa. BS uoa are expensive around $35 so on a cost benefit analysis u may want to consider trying another oil like Mobil 5w-30 ESP (Euro) and drop doing the voa. I live in the colder Northeast climate and have migrated to a 5w-30 which is good to -30F. plus has higher hths protection. ESP is posted in the voa bitog database.

Stop asking the wife to gently accelerate. She is not the cause of the higher ppm. Our 2009 ES 350 with 61K, gets an annual 4k oil change and a filter every other year(Fram endurance). Without a voa, Fe - 4ppm, Al - 1ppm, Cu - 1 ppm per 4k OCI. Bought used in 2017 at 41k with unknown oil history.
 
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Looks pretty normal to me but yes, the Al rise looks out of place but with only 3 data points, could just be normal sample variation/noise. The prev. two had a bit of fuel...what I have seen from dozens of BS UOAs and their flashpoint method of determining fuel, those FPs are pretty low so you did likely have a noteable amount of fuel those prev. two times but hard to say exactly without directly measuring it. Just do another 5K change and UOA and see where the numbers/trends go. Why the Mazda oil just curious? B/c it has a lot of moly in it? Can also bump up to a 0/5W30 if you want a bit more viscosity over the 0W20. HPL has a lot of moly in it and may be an option to look at.
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I ended up starting to do UOAs after reading here on BITOG for years and when the Mazda crossed 60,000 miles I started to wonder if the Mazda Moly oil was the best tool for the job. When we bought the car back in early 2015 people were really high on the Mazda Moly oil so I just stuck with it all these years.
But as I started doing some research/reading about the Mazda Moly here and saw that some seemed to really like it while others were less than impressed with what looked like either its base stock(s) or that the levels of moly weren't as effective as some people make them out to be, I started wondering if there was a better alternative. I also started wondering if I should make the jump to a 5w-30, so I decided that after the bulk Mazda Moly ran out, I would start exploring another possible alternative.
The current OCI is the last of the Mazda Moly oil and before the higher aluminum reading I was already planning on posting here to see what people thought would be my best move for oil, to stick with the Mazda Moly, move to another oil and/or move to another weight.
What do you think? Any thoughts on something better for our use case?
Thanks!
 
Interesting formulation change(s) across those UOAs.
Thanks for the info, sorry, still learning all about this. Any chance you can elaborate on that? Are you referring to the varying levels measured in the UOAs? I just assumed it was because of the OCI and/or the durations the oil was in the sump, but I'd love to know more. The first UOA I believe might have been in the car for over a year because I think it was during the pandemic, but I need to check my notes--adding the caveat in case it's a data point that would help.
Thanks!
 
Looks pretty normal to me but yes, the Al rise looks out of place but with only 3 data points, could just be normal sample variation/noise. The prev. two had a bit of fuel...what I have seen from dozens of BS UOAs and their flashpoint method of determining fuel, those FPs are pretty low so you did likely have a noteable amount of fuel those prev. two times but hard to say exactly without directly measuring it. Just do another 5K change and UOA and see where the numbers/trends go. Why the Mazda oil just curious? B/c it has a lot of moly in it? Can also bump up to a 0/5W30 if you want a bit more viscosity over the 0W20. HPL has a lot of moly in it and may be an option to look at.
That's good to know, I'd not considered the accuracy of their tests--yikes, so it could be much worse? Is there another value in the BlackStone test that I can use to verify that the oil isn't too diluted and still has its properties alongside the FP?

The first OCI was a lot more city/in-town driving and MUCH less longer freeway trips. The second and third OCI have the once-a-week mostly highway 70 mile trips, which I started taking the Mazda on instead of our other vehicle because I was worried about fuel dilution from the frequent short trips.
 
It appears that the Mazda moly 0w-20 blend may have changed and injected uncertainty into ur uoa analysis. If the Fe and Al ppm did not change then it would be more certain that the blend remained constant and there is no need for a voa. BS uoa are expensive around $35 so on a cost benefit analysis u may want to consider trying another oil like Mobil 5w-30 ESP (Euro) and drop doing the voa. I live in the colder Northeast climate and have migrated to a 5w-30 which is good to -30F. plus has higher hths protection. ESP is posted in the voa bitog database.

Stop asking the wife to gently accelerate. She is not the cause of the higher ppm. Our 2009 ES 350 with 61K, gets an annual 4k oil change and a filter every other year(Fram endurance). Without a voa, Fe - 4ppm, Al - 1ppm, Cu - 1 ppm per 4k OCI. Bought used in 2017 at 41k with unknown oil history.
Thanks for all the info, I appreciate it. That was going to be one of my next questions in here; what would be a good alternative (and hopefully and improvement) for our use case oil and weight that we could jump to for our CX-5?
 
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