My Dilemma 7.5k OCI or 10K OCI...help please

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I do as many miles as you. I have seen engines kill an oil at 6,000 miles and others barely touch the oil. Invest the money and get a UOA done to see what you can safely do on your oil of choice with your driving conditions and engine. Don't guess. Oil analysis is easy and not expensive but it gives you a good look into what is possible. Make sure to ask for TBN, and a TAN.
 
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Originally Posted By: SR5
M1 5W30 EP at 10,000 miles. Or if warm enough (above 0F or -20C) then M1 10W30 EP.

If you are going to break warranty OCI then I would step it up a grade to give yourself a buffer against viscosity loss through shear and use a 30 grade oil. The EP has good TBN retention to fight acid build up, and 10K miles should be fine.

+1
With 45k per year and 70% highway, I would consider 11k or 12k .
 
You could do a 7,500 mile OCI and get a UOA, that should give you a pretty good idea of how far you can go. If warranty is a concern do a virtual oil change every 5K miles. Just make sure you have invoices and a log to back it up.
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With that kind of driving if it were mine I'd follow the mfg OCI until I was out of warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: FordBroncoVWJeta
What does Nissan say? Exactly 5K no matter what? Do you want to pi$$ your power train warranty away?


They call for 5,000 Mile OCI...period. And the power train warranty will be done next year at the rate I drive.
 
With oil on clearance (AZ winter sale) and bulk jobber oil filters from rock auto (less than $2 ea), I would do 5k oci until after warranty is done, then go to 10k oci w good syn oil and fram ultra type filters if u want to
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
"drive for work"... does that mean you get mileage reimbursed at like 50 cents a mile?

Is it the cost of oil changes or the time you don't want to spend on them? I'd follow Nissan's recommendation of 5000 miles. It's part of your job to take care of your vehicle.


More like .25 per mile plus a nice fixed amount that pays the car note in full.
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It's not about the cost folks. It's the time. New job with crazy demands, newborn on the way, and a two year old.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I do as many miles as you. I have seen engines kill an oil at 6,000 miles and others barely touch the oil. Invest the money and get a UOA done to see what you can safely do on your oil of choice with your driving conditions and engine. Don't guess. Oil analysis is easy and not expensive but it gives you a good look into what is possible. Make sure to ask for TBN, and a TAN.


Thanks. I already have a Blackstone Labs kit that I was going to place with my next Oil Change. Curious if there is another company with more accurate results, cost and service? I've heard blackstone accuracy has deminished as of late. I will be sure to ask for TBN and TAN.
 
Originally Posted By: TheIceStormof06
Originally Posted By: Leo99
"drive for work"... does that mean you get mileage reimbursed at like 50 cents a mile?

Is it the cost of oil changes or the time you don't want to spend on them? I'd follow Nissan's recommendation of 5000 miles. It's part of your job to take care of your vehicle.


More like .25 per mile plus a nice fixed amount that pays the car note in full.
wink.gif

It's not about the cost folks. It's the time. New job with crazy demands, newborn on the way, and a two year old.

If it's not about the cost, why not just take it into Firestone or Walmart, drop it off and do what you need to do?
 
I’m not a fan of bucking the manufacturers OCI recommendations. You’re in Atlanta so, a 5w20 or 5w30 would work year round. With the 5,000 mile OCI recommendation, I’d go with a good synthetic blend like Pennzoil Gold, Valvoline Durablend or Motorcraft Synthetic blend.
 
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Originally Posted By: bigj_16
[/quote]
If it's not about the cost, why not just take it into Firestone or Walmart, drop it off and do what you need to do?


That is the worst thing you could possibly do. At least in my neck of the woods anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: TheIceStormof06
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I do as many miles as you. I have seen engines kill an oil at 6,000 miles and others barely touch the oil. Invest the money and get a UOA done to see what you can safely do on your oil of choice with your driving conditions and engine. Don't guess. Oil analysis is easy and not expensive but it gives you a good look into what is possible. Make sure to ask for TBN, and a TAN.


Thanks. I already have a Blackstone Labs kit that I was going to place with my next Oil Change. Curious if there is another company with more accurate results, cost and service? I've heard blackstone accuracy has deminished as of late. I will be sure to ask for TBN and TAN.

NAPA has the Wix kit available which includes TBN for less than Blackstone, but you pay shipping. NAPA 4077
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
I’m not a fan of bucking the manufacturers OCI recommendations. You’re in Atlanta so, a 5w20 or 5w30 would work year round. With the 5,000 mile OCI recommendation, I’d go with a good synthetic blend like Pennzoil Gold, Valvoline Durablend or Motorcraft Synthetic blend.


Appreciate the response. Several people have said stick with the original manufacturers intervals or 5k. But the same people suggest using a grade/viscosity that is not recommended by the manufacturer.
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that I don't understand. Not picking on you MParr...just your last Of many people responded to say this. 0W-20 is recommended and 5W-30 can be used as an option based on the OEm recommendations.

Also, based on what I've read here in BITOG, Mobile EP is one of the best synthetic oils. I'm sticking with Synthetic.
 
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Originally Posted By: FORD4LIFE
Originally Posted By: bigj_16

If it's not about the cost, why not just take it into Firestone or Walmart, drop it off and do what you need to do?


That is the worst thing you could possibly do. At least in my neck of the woods anyway. [/quote]

LOL. Thank you. I was about to say this. I'd be [censored] to take it to a quick lube place. They cut way too many corners. I've had a drain pan stripped twice and once they used cement in place of a washer to seal the pan. No thanks
 
Originally Posted By: FORD4LIFE
Originally Posted By: bigj_16

If it's not about the cost, why not just take it into Firestone or Walmart, drop it off and do what you need to do?


That is the worst thing you could possibly do. At least in my neck of the woods anyway. [/quote]

Exactly! LOL. Thank you. I was about to say this. I'd be [censored] to take it to a quick lube place. They cut way too many corners. I've had a drain pan stripped twice and once they used cement in place of a washer to seal the pan. No thanks
 
By no means am I a Amsoil fan, but this may be a situation where using their Signature Series oils will make sense. Amsoil will warranty their extended drain recommendation on vehicles that are still under warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: KJSmith
I would be comfortable extending a little at a time (1K) and using a testing lab to see if the oil is holding up under the conditions I am subjecting it to.


There's no way I'd waste UOA money every 1k... IMHO if you have 3-4 UOA at a certain mileage, and wear rates calculate out low and steady, and TBN is tracking evenly with mileage- extend the run 50% to get the maximum data for your longer run. One subpar UOA will not forever destroy an engine if you are still monitoring oil level and don't note anything catastrophic. So if you ran 10k 3 times and things look good, try jumping to 15k and then reassess OCI based on UOA vs. trend. This way you immediately see if 15k is too long, vs. 5 UOAs at 1k intervals that would have likely told you the same thing- that the oil is still just fine. If the 15k resulted in slightly higher numbers than you were comfortable with, then do whatever makes your heart and wallet happy. Remember JMHO
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your signature says Atlanta,,,, I hate Atlanta traffic I would sample at 7.5 K and see as your oil will take a beating in Atlanta traffic not to mention the heat during the summer on lighter oil
 
Thanks everyone. Many suggestions to go to 7.5k OCI and check UOA for condition. Good to get that confirmation. I will post back once it comes back from the lab. Thanks again
 
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