Mos2 dosing

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Tron1
I have finally been able to log on to BITOG. For some reason.

This thread is very educational.
I added 1 can of LubroMoly to my 2011 Toyota V6 filled with Eneos 5w30 yesterday. I must admit I was at first fearful of adding the additive, this thread lead me to believe in the efficacy of the Moly. I warmed the engine up and then added the can and drove the car for a few miles. I ususally drive it on the weeekends and hate starting it up cold after it sits for a week, hence the Moly for those weekly, cold starts. I
appreciate and welcome all comements.


I'd be interested in your observations, please update us on your observations.

 

[Tron1]

"I'd be interested in your observations, please update us on your observations."

Yes, that is my intention.
Ron

 

[Tron1]

Originally Posted By: Dominic
One 300mL Whole Can of MoS2 provides ~175 ppm of Moly in a 5qt sump. I did the chemical dilution calculations based on the virgin analysis of MoS2.

Therefore 1 can = 175ppm, 1/2 Can = 88ppm

I think 1/2 can per oil change is sufficient after the initial "plate" of MoS2 with a full dose. However I doubt even a full dose each time is harmful.

So far I'm 1000 miles into using it (full can first dose) on my Subaru 2.5L boxer, and things are as smooth and quiet as I can
imagine. So far I haven't notied any ill effects and I will be checking my fuel economy this weekend when I do a long trip.



Thank you for those calculations. It seems like a relatively small amount of MoS2 has a beneficial effect.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Russell
I used 1.5 cans in my 95 BMW 525i (233,000 miles)in a 6 quart sump. Believe I used it at the recomended rate. Engine is quieter especially on a cold start. That's enough for me.

Let me add that I have used it before (about 25,000 miles ago)with no ill effects only a noise reduction. I have also used Lubro-moly motor oil saver which reduced seal leakage. IMO, excellent products.

 

[k24a4]

Originally Posted By: 95busa
Throw your money directly into the oil fill hole and skip the middle man.


Have to admit, this made me laugh out loud.

I added it to my Accord a few years ago and got a used oil analysis, here .

I ran it for the full interval with no adverse affects but also no perceived gains. Because I had extra on hand I decided to add it to my current fill of PU and will run it out to 7-7.5k.

 

[lockguy]

does the mos2 have any adverse effects on gaskets ie making them brittle etc?

I used it for a couple of runs about 15-20k ago and have recently noticed my valve cover gasket is leaking nearly all the way around. my 3 year old van now has 135k. just wondering if this leaking is premature or not and possibly caused by the mos2.

btw, i am considering using mos2 again, I am in no way pointing the finger at mos2, just trying to get the facts.

 

[dave5358]

Originally Posted By: lockguy
does the mos2 have any adverse effects on gaskets ie making them brittle etc? I used it for a couple of runs about 15-20k ago and have recently noticed my valve cover gasket is leaking nearly all the way around. my 3 year old van now has 135k. just wondering if this leaking is premature or not and possibly caused by the mos2. btw, i am considering using mos2 again, I am in no way pointing the finger at mos2, just trying to get the facts.


No. MoS2 is just a finely ground powder. If you are using Liqui Moly, then the MoS2 is in a mineral oil suspension. Nothing there to affect your gaskets one way or another.

 

[KCJeep]

If anything MoS2 may help slow the leak.

 

[dave5358]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
If anything MoS2 may help slow the leak [re: leaking valve cover gasket].


Probably not. The MoS2 particles are super fine, in the .2-.3 micron size. While they stick and collect on metal surfaces, probably nothing in a gasket will attract them and there is no burnishing action to rub them in (like a journal turning in a bearing shell).

'Stop leak' additives typically make rubber seals swell, so they probably won't help either.

Basically, get another valve cover gasket.

 

[KenO]

Sooooo, I did the math, and over the course of 1 OCI, I estimate I saved between $25-$30 in gas based on the .5-1 mpg I gained in this cold weather. Therefore, I have a dosing question. I'm getting ready to change out my first dose of MOS2 (~6k miles, 1 full can, 7 quarts of Maxlife 10W-40). Should I run a full can again? Full can now, then half can next OCI? Half can now, then full, then half, and alternate like that?? Or just stick to a full can, since my car has a decent sized sump??

 

[daman]

I think for a 7 qt sump one can is it,,i would skip the next OC or at most half or 1/4 can,theres allot of residue left after draining oil.

 

[dave5358]

Originally Posted By: KenO
Sooooo, I did the math, and over the course of 1 OCI, I estimate I saved between $25-$30 in gas based on the .5-1 mpg I gained in this cold weather. Therefore, I have a dosing question. I'm getting ready to change out my first dose of MOS2 (~6k miles, 1 full can, 7 quarts of Maxlife 10W-40). Should I run a full can again? Full can now, then half can next OCI? Half can now, then full, then half, and alternate like that?? Or just stick to a full can, since my car has a decent sized sump??


It is probably not all that critical. Add 'half a can of MoS2 or add a full can. According to your calculations, it is cost effective - working - so keep using it. I have never heard a suggestion that you can 'overdose' on MoS2.

You are also getting some molybdenum in the Maxlife motor oil - possibly soluble molybdenum (or, at least, several used oil analysis threads suggest it is an additive of this Valvoline product line). In one form or another, molybdenum is a popular additive to motor oils.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: KenO
Sooooo, I did the math, and over the course of 1 OCI, I estimate I saved between $25-$30 in gas based on the .5-1 mpg I gained in this cold weather. Therefore, I have a dosing question. I'm getting ready to change out my first dose of MOS2 (~6k miles, 1 full can, 7 quarts of Maxlife 10W-40). Should I run a full can again? Full can now, then half can next OCI? Half can now, then full, then half, and alternate like that?? Or just stick to a full can, since my car has a decent sized sump??



I've been using mos2 for years now. I've found that after the first interval at the dosage prescribed on the can only half doses are required to maintain the fuel economy improvement.
Once the mos2 has 'plated' the engines moving parts a large foes is no longer required to maintain the 'plating'
And I've found that overdosing does no harm however it doesn't help either. The engine can only use so much so there is no gain in overdosing.
I still just add a whole can. It's cheap,no partial cans laying around trying to use up. Keeps it simple for me.
Mos2 and motor oil saver contain boron just in case anyone is wondering.

 

[dave5358]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I still just add a whole can. It's cheap, no partial cans laying around trying to use up. Keeps it simple for me.

A perfect argument for adding a whole can. KISS

 

[Vikas]

I am always *extremely* impressed when somebody claims 0.5-1.0 mpg gains. Those guys must have extremely repeatable mpg numbers with zero variance. I wonder what is their trick?

Who am I kidding here? Post your mileage numbers per tank and prove to us that you are getting readings which are within 0.1 of each other before asserting that your mileage has gone up my 0.5 mpg. Or post the graph.

I am assuming you are mathematically inclined because you are capable of doing the necessary calculations in coming up with your claimed dollar savings, so you should be able to accept my challenge.

 

[KenO]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am always *extremely* impressed when somebody claims 0.5-1.0 mpg gains. Those guys must have extremely repeatable mpg numbers with zero variance. I wonder what is their trick?

Who am I kidding here? Post your mileage numbers per tank and prove to us that you are getting readings which are within 0.1 of each other before asserting that your mileage has gone up my 0.5 mpg. Or post the graph.

I am assuming you are mathematically inclined because you are capable of doing the necessary calculations in coming up with your claimed dollar savings, so you should be able to accept my challenge.



I don't write it down, but I check it every tank, and it is almost always 26.5-27 mpg for the past few months of cold weather. Before the MOS2, I was averaging about 25.8-26.5. In the summer months before MOS2 I was averaging 28-29. I'm excited to see what the improvement is come summertime. I drive 75 miles/day round trip for work, and then whatever other misc driving I do, so most tanks are very consistent.

 

[Vikas]

Frankly, my experience with measuring true gas mileage does not mirror yours. Even though I have the exact same commute, there is too much variation on the tank to tank mileage with or without TC-W3.

I also have done plenty of MA-VA trips since both my kids ended up in school in that area. I have driven the 99 Odyssey there at least twice every semester since 2008 and the mileage for the 1000 mile trip and individual tannk-to-tank during the trip always have variation. Sometimes low of 23 to high of 28.

Don't get me wrong. I use MOS2 and TCW-3 and I recommend it to others but objectively it is extremely difficult to quantify the results. My experience does not stand the true statistical test to claim otherwise.

 

[KenO]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Frankly, my experience with measuring true gas mileage does not mirror yours. Even though I have the exact same commute, there is too much variation on the tank to tank mileage with or without TC-W3.

I also have done plenty of MA-VA trips since both my kids ended up in school in that area. I have driven the 99 Odyssey there at least twice every semester since 2008 and the mileage for the 1000 mile trip and individual tannk-to-tank during the trip always have variation. Sometimes low of 23 to high of 28.

Don't get me wrong. I use MOS2 and TCW-3 and I recommend it to others but objectively it is extremely difficult to quantify the results. My experience does not stand the true statistical test to claim otherwise.



FWIW, this is the only vehicle I've ever owned thats this stable wrt fuel mileage.

 

[Tron1]

I put a can of Lubro Moly in the crankcase of my Venza last month. It is hard to determine, from the drivers seat, any performance enhansement. However, when is too much moly a bad thing? The quote from an internet site makes this statement...

"Also, molybdenum compounds in motor oils can degrade and
cause bearing corrosion and is particularly aggressive towards copper. In almost all cases, any engine oil
formula having "moly" will also contain a copper deactivator which will protect bearings from the moly
compounds. The only problem, the copper deactivator decomposes at relatively low temperatures and looses
it's potency after a few thousand miles, which can be seen in used oil analyses of moly rich oils having higher

than normal copper levels. Link Additionally, there is documentation in various SAE publications showing a
vast number of different species of moly friction modifiers, some providing better wear than fuel savings and
vice-versa, and unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine how a friction modified oil is formulated
other than to assume that a GF-4 or energy conserving oil is most likely to bias fuel savings for lower wear
protection . . ."

I would be interested in a discussion on the merits of the above quote.

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: Tron1
I put a can of Lubro Moly in the crankcase of my Venza last month. It is hard to determine, from the drivers seat, any performance enhansement. However, when is too much moly a bad thing? The quote from an internet site makes this statement...

"Also, molybdenum compounds in motor oils can degrade and
cause bearing corrosion and is particularly aggressive towards copper. In almost all cases, any engine oil
formula having "moly" will also contain a copper deactivator which will protect bearings from the moly
compounds. The only problem, the copper deactivator decomposes at relatively low temperatures and looses
it's potency after a few thousand miles, which can be seen in used oil analyses of moly rich oils having higher

than normal copper levels. Link Additionally, there is documentation in various SAE publications showing a
vast number of different species of moly friction modifiers, some providing better wear than fuel savings and
vice-versa, and unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine how a friction modified oil is formulated
other than to assume that a GF-4 or energy conserving oil is most likely to bias fuel savings for lower wear
protection . . ."

I would be interested in a discussion on the merits of the above quote.

This is referring to organic moly, not the type of moly used Mos2.