Mobil1 satisfactory for Buttonwillow?

[CelicaGT6]

quote:

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Originally posted by slider:
Originally posted by CelicaGT6:
>Assuming that RL doesnt swell the seals to the point that it screws something up in my engine, it looks like i will be picking up some RL for >the track.

It doesn't swell the seals too much. The chemistry has some PAO in it to ensure that.

You might want to install an oil temperature gauge to find out if a 10-40 is really necessary.


>If I use the oil for the track and dont change it aftewards, how long should I be able to go before it gets too dirty? My speedo hasnt worked since my engine swap so I basically go by months and/or how dirty the oil looks.

If your odometer doesn't work, you should use oil analysis. As long as the TBN is high enough (depends on method/lab) and the oil stays in grade, the oil should be fine for use. Going on color alone is too subjective to be accurately relied on.

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I am planning to make a totally custom dash panel using Stewart Warner gauges and will have an oil temp for the future. I doubt I will have time to purchase and install an oil gauge before the event however.

Also, where can I get a UOA done?

[ September 30, 2003, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: CelicaGT6 ]

 

[Flimflam]

quote:

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Originally posted by CelicaGT6:
.......... will 10W-40 be too thick for santa barbara winter times? For example, the forecase for this week says the weather will get as low as the mid 50's. Is this too cold for 10W-40?

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Back when I lived in New York City, me'n all my friends used 20w-50 Castrol GTX and straight grade dino HD-30. In January and February, cold starting in the mornings from 25 degrees Fahrenheit was a common occurrence. We never had a problem starting.

The thinnest oil I ever heard of people using was, 10w-40. As far as I know, to date, no one has ever trashed his/her engine because of a tendency to go for heavy oil.

 

[slider]

Originally posted by CelicaGT6:
>Assuming that RL doesnt swell the seals to the point that it screws something up in my engine, it looks like i will be picking up some RL for >the track.

It doesn't swell the seals too much. The chemistry has some PAO in it to ensure that.

You might want to install an oil temperature gauge to find out if a 10-40 is really necessary.


>If I use the oil for the track and dont change it aftewards, how long should I be able to go before it gets too dirty? My speedo hasnt worked since my engine swap so I basically go by months and/or how dirty the oil looks.

If your odometer doesn't work, you should use oil analysis. As long as the TBN is high enough (depends on method/lab) and the oil stays in grade, the oil should be fine for use. Going on color alone is too subjective to be accurately relied on.

 

[Jimbo]

Too thick for winter in Santa Barbara? I use 15W-40 dino in most of the family fleet and used to run straight 30 all year in So. Cal. coastal areas.

As for the reference to polyester oils being unsutiable for aircraft use, I don't know where that one came from. Turbine engines that use ester-based synthetics do not have conventional elastomeric (rubber) seals at all due to temperature extremes. They use all-metallic seals. Piston engines never use 100% synthetics of any kind due to lead scavenging issues. PAO-dino blends or 100% dino are used for better solvency.