Mobil EP Vs Valvoline EP

[ndarkside93]

I thought 5w-30 grade had the lowest GTL% and the two 20 grades had the highest?

It does. 0w-20 is 60-80% GTL

 

[ltslimjim]

It does. 0w-20 is 60-80% GTL

Okay. So, I wanted to confirm the others, you are correct on the 0w-20. Might be how they get their 0w rating? Not nearly as much PPD needed with the greater percentage of GTL.

5w-20 is between 45% to 70% GTL; and 15% to 40% for group III non-GTL.

5w-30 is anywhere between 30% to 60% GTL; with the same range for group III non-GTL.

 

[ndarkside93]

Okay. So, I wanted to confirm the others, you are correct on the 0w-20. Might be how they get their 0w rating? Not nearly as much PPD needed with the greater percentage of GTL.

5w-20 is between 45% to 70% GTL; and 15% to 40% for group III non-GTL.

5w-30 is anywhere between 30% to 60% GTL; with the same range for group III non-GTL.

That is correct. Ironically the one SDs I could see of a 0w-16 version which I haven’t seen on shelves is 0 GTL

 

[Nuclear_42]

Generally agree on M1 having more at their disposal and leading the industry among the majors. But, that narrative can be changing given the innovation with R&P. Follow the money. If it continues to sell, and people get results, Valvoline will put even more into their own engine testing and molecule synthesis could yield more interesting results. Might not get another elixir at solving a problem but ultimately it’s about improving overall oil formulation.

Comparing the two oils in the OP, they are only similar in the “EP” label; but it’s purely labeling not necessarily the same market. One is an extended drain oil. So, I typically would prefer to run the M1 EP between the two in my use case.

VRP as of now holds to to their claims to cleaning. However I’m really disappointed in the 500k mile tear down comparison video with Valvoline EP. Basically made me steer away completely from switching to Valvoline.

 

[Carlostrece]

I'm sure they're both good, but the Valvoline is probably thicker viscosity at 100KV (op temp). I researched the high mileage versions of these oils and the Valvoline EP HM is thicker than M1 EP HM at KV100. I like that about Valvoline.

I assume that carries over to the non HM versions of those oils that you asked about.

That applies even-more-so to Quaker State HM FS and especially Quaker State Ultimate Protection FS. Nice and thick at KV100. As an added bonus, QS losts 30% less than the 2 you mentioned. I compared prices at Wallyworld.

I think OP should consider Quaker State Ultimate Protection. It's a very good oil and the price is unbeatable. I also think OP should have 1 year OCI. Also use a good filter with 25 micron (or smaller) @ 100% because filtration matters as much, or more, than choice of oil.

I'm not a fan of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Platinum because they're very thin per grade.

 

[Carlostrece]

My mechanic once had the valve cover off of an engine in the bay when another mechanic walked by and said “looks like another Mobil 1 engine” as the engine was spotless . Don’t know about the rings - so VRP over VEP for the win (it’s very quiet as well ).

My mechanic just recently had my valve covers off my 97 Buick 3800 to replace valve cover gaskets. He said my valvetrain looked exceptionally clean.

My car is 28 years old car with 105K miles. I used Maxlife HM Syn 5w30 for the last 15 years. For the last 10 years I've had a 3 years OCI because my car has only been driving 400-500 miles a year.

I think a 6 month OCI is unnecessary and wasteful even with cheap oil. Even-more-so with expensive oil.

Valvoline Maxlife Syn (silver bottle) has been keeping my engine clean with a 3 year OCI. Part of that is probably because my car is parked in a passively heated underground garage. So it's never colder than 60F when it starts. Usually 70F at startup.

I recently switched to Maxlife Blend (red bottle) to reduce oil leaks. Next oil change (in 3 years) I'm going to try Quaker State HM FS.

Valvoline has been keeping my engine clean just dandy.

 

[facility1]

Valvoline EP is a better oil, nice and quiet and very clean inside when I changed valve cover gasket on my last car, and to mention I also used Royal Purple and it too was good, used Mobil the first two changes and clattery, never using Mobil 1 again.

 

[tired]

VRP as of now holds to to their claims to cleaning. However I’m really disappointed in the 500k mile tear down comparison video with Valvoline EP. Basically made me steer away completely from switching to Valvoline.

Do you have a link? I'd be interested. I remember a video for Pennzoil too that seemed to show a fair amount of varnish even with their synthetic.

 

[The Critic]

Do you have a link? I'd be interested. I remember a video for Pennzoil too that seemed to show a fair amount of varnish even with their synthetic.

 

[tired]

Was this done with Valvoline EP? It just said Valvoline full synthetic, which could refer to many oils. Maybe I missed it in the video.

Thanks for sharing. Interesting results. I agree. Very varnished engine.

 

[The Critic]

Was this done with Valvoline EP? It just said Valvoline full synthetic, which could refer to many oils. Maybe I missed it in the video.

Thanks for sharing. Interesting results. I agree. Very varnished engine.

Probably Valvoline Advanced. Also, 10K intervals.

 

[tired]

Probably Valvoline Advanced. Also, 10K intervals.

True, but also absolutely ideal use scenario. Just sitting on a dyno. No stop and go traffic. Minimal starts. Doesn't get much more ideal I don't think.

 

[Carlostrece]

Valvoline EP is a better oil, nice and quiet and very clean inside when I changed valve cover gasket on my last car, and to mention I also used Royal Purple and it too was good, used Mobil the first two changes and clattery, never using Mobil 1 again.

I had three Jeeps with 4L engine, I used Mobil One 10w30 and the flat tappet cam/valvtrain was clattery. At idle it sounded like 6 to 12 sewing machines furiously sewing. Some of that noise is to be expected from a Jeep 4L. However, there was less noise when using Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Shell 10w30. AFAIK all of these oils were group 3 oils.

I also noticed less oil pressure and more oil use/loss with M1.

My 97 Buick is quiet with any oil. I assume that's because it has a roller cam that is less affected by viscosity, additives, etc.

I used Mobil One for 8 clattery years, but after trying several other brands I settled on Valvoline Maxlife for 15 years. I recently learned about a couple attractive offerings by Quaker State that I'd like to try in future. I will NOT be going back to M1.

I also will not go back to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Platinum because those were also clattery. PUP & PP are very thin per grade, which I suspect is what makes them clattery and prone to leaking. Same with the non-Euro M1 oils, though not as thin as PUP or PP.

I do however like Pennzoil blend and conv oils just fine (because they're not thin).

 

[Carlostrece]

I suggest the OP try Quaker State Ultimate Protection. It's a heavy hitter with a low price at Walmart. Also a NAPA Gold filter ideally. Next choice Oreilly Microgard Select filter. Next choice any autostore housebrand premium filter or a Premium Guard brand filter from Amazon, Walmart, or wherever.

At least research those. I think you'll find them impressive and surprisingly affordable.

 

[ChrisD46]

I had three Jeeps with 4L engine, I used Mobil One 10w30 and the flat tappet cam/valvtrain was clattery. At idle it sounded like 6 to 12 sewing machines furiously sewing. Some of that noise is to be expected from a Jeep 4L. However, there was less noise when using Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Shell 10w30. AFAIK all of these oils were group 3 oils.

I also noticed less oil pressure and more oil use/loss with M1.

My 97 Buick is quiet with any oil. I assume that's because it has a roller cam that is less affected by viscosity, additives, etc.

I used Mobil One for 8 clattery years, but after trying several other brands I settled on Valvoline Maxlife for 15 years. I recently learned about a couple attractive offerings by Quaker State that I'd like to try in future. I will NOT be going back to M1.

I also will not go back to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Platinum because those were also clattery. PUP & PP are very thin per grade, which I suspect is what makes them clattery and prone to leaking. Same with the non-Euro M1 oils, though not as thin as PUP or PP.

I do however like Pennzoil blend and conv oils just fine (because they're not thin).

Is less noise while running the sign of a better oil ? I’m not sure , I will put up with a little noise if wear numbers are low , the oil is a good cleaner , has a low NOACK , etc.

 

[ndarkside93]

Is less noise while running the sign of a better oil ? I’m not sure , I will put up with a little noise if wear numbers are low , the oil is a good cleaner , has a low NOACK , etc.

It’s not a direct correlation but usually quiet oils tend to have good wear results.

 

[Carlostrece]

Is less noise while running the sign of a better oil ? I’m not sure , I will put up with a little noise if wear numbers are low , the oil is a good cleaner , has a low NOACK , etc.

Mobil One did keep my 3 Jeeps engines clean for many years. That is true. But I didn't like the noisy valvtrain and lower oil pressure at idle (25 psi) when sitting still in Drive.

However, after I later switched my Jeeps and Buick to Valvoline Maxlife Syn, which also kept them clean. So both M1 & V ML Syn are proven to be good at keeping engines clean, IME. For cleanliness they're both good. Probably most (or all?) modern oils are.

However, my Jeep flat tappet engines were less noisy with Valvoline than M1. My Buick roller cam engine is quiet with any oil. All my engines showed 30 psi at idle (in Drive sitting still) with Valvoline Maxlife. M1 of same stated grade showed 25 psi.

Draw your own conclusions. My conclusion is I prefer Valvoline Maxlife over Mobil One. I think all this stems from Valvoline Maxlife being slightly thicker than M1 at full op temp. I'm a thickie due to my experiences. I like thicker at 100KV but still within recommended grade.

That said, Quaker State Ultimate Protection and Quaker State High Mileage Full Syn are thicker than Valvoline Maxlife. I just recently discovered QS oils at BITOG. I'll be excited to try them in future. For now I'm still using Maxlife for this OCI because my oil was recently changed.

 

[Sienna dude]

Apples and orangles. They are different EP's

 

[Sienna dude]

Either will do the job you want it to do. If you prefer more moly, go with the V.EP.

I've switched from M1 to Valvoline for all the cars I do oil changes for (to Valv Advanced, don't have EP at my disposal yet).

This has been said so many times here. That "more" Moly is not really more, it is an old version. Mobil and Pennzoil's version of Moly is more potent and the modern one. 90 ppm of Mobil's Moly is as good as Toyota's 750 ppm. Quacker State also has tons of Moly compared to Pennzoil Ultra, but Ultra's Moly is the modern one.

 

[Averroes]

This has been said so many times here. That "more" Moly is not really more, it is an old version. Mobil and Pennzoil's version of Moly is more potent and the modern one. 90 ppm of Mobil's Moly is as good as Toyota's 750 ppm. Quacker State also has tons of Moly compared to Pennzoil Ultra, but Ultra's Moly is the modern one.

So I guess HPL and Redline must be using the the old version of moly in their oils, since UOAs show massive amounts of moly. Someone chime in.

I’ve already read it here, and you’re right, there are different “types” of moly.