Mobil EP Vs Valvoline EP

So I guess HPL and Redline must be using the the old version of moly in their oils, since UOAs show massive amounts of moly. Someone chime in.

I’ve already read it here, and you’re right, there are different “types” of moly.
I think somewhere I read that HPL goes ahead and uses both types of Moly. HPL guys load them up lol. But given the price of Valvoline, I highly doubt they use both types. They use what quacker state uses, and the amounts are pretty similar
 
The thing that I learned from the motor oil geek on YouTube is that different oils with same approvals, try to hit a performance target in different ways. So this less Moly or more Moly doesn't really matter. As long as the oils have the required approvals you can't go wrong with using any of them. In that video of the motor oil geek, the cheapest of the bunch beat the most expensive lol. You can't go wrong with either Mobil 1 EP and Valvoline EP. But they are different EP's, Mobil 1 EP is for longer OCI. Since I'm a Mobil 1 fanboy and have had great luck using it, I would pick Mobil 1.
 
The thing that I learned from the motor oil geek on YouTube is that different oils with same approvals, try to hit a performance target in different ways. So this less Moly or more Moly doesn't really matter. As long as the oils have the required approvals you can't go wrong with using any of them. In that video of the motor oil geek, the cheapest of the bunch beat the most expensive lol.
"beat"
 
In that same video he said that there are other oils that might do better, but they don't have approvals. He said he was going to do another comparison between Red line, Driven and Amsoil Signature Series etc.
 
Yeah I think we've beaten that topic to death in other threads (why 3 pulls on a dyno and looking at a $30 UOA doesn't show one oil "beats" another one).
That also means that there is no easy way we can test the expensive oil's big claims. I'm sticking to the cheap one
 
IMO that vid is misleading to say the least. My oil burner is perfect example of why a few ppm wear difference is just noise when an oil may not be capable of keeping rings clean. Run a full sequence of tests and see which oils on top. Wear is one part of many important things.
 
IMO that vid is misleading to say the least. My oil burner is perfect example of why a few ppm wear difference is just noise when an oil may not be capable of keeping rings clean.
I wonder why your engine became an oil burner. Bad design or not serviced on time?
 
You know after the HPL use confirmed that my engine is very clean, now I believe that there is an alternative to using very premium oils, and that alternative is changing oil more often than required using regular oil from Walmart Shelf. In over 200,000 miles, I did not wait for the TBN to go below 5 before changing the oil. It gives you an idea that I overdid things, I literally drained out new oil like this lol.

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I wonder why your engine became an oil burner. Bad design or not serviced on time?
 
That's sad at 5K oci. Are Subarus known for this kind of thing?
 
I do believe it was a combination of mediocre base stocks, low tension oil ring design and severe service.
My sister has a 2022 Outback with the 2.5 Turbo. I sent her three 5 qt jugs of Pennzoil Ultra from Amazon. I keep telling her to change her oil every 3,000 miles no matter what. She doesn't know a thing about cars, next year I will send her more oil as a reminder

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Good news is I maintain 4 Subaru’s total with a long term ESP 0W-30 test going on as we speak.
She has a warranty and an extended warranty so we need to be careful with the viscosity. But I think as long as she changes her oil three times a year, she should be fine.
 
My sister has a 2022 Outback with the 2.5 Turbo. I sent her three 5 qt jugs of Pennzoil Ultra from Amazon. I keep telling her to change her oil every 3,000 miles no matter what. She doesn't know a thing about cars, next year I will send her more oil as a reminder.
I do a 6 mo, 3K OCI using premium D1G3 synthetic oils of the recommended grade on GDI vehicles in my immediate family. I’m of the unsupported opinion that this practice should virtually eliminate any oil-related issues.
 
I do a 6 mo, 3K OCI using premium D1G3 synthetic oils of the recommended grade on GDI vehicles in my immediate family. I’m of the unsupported opinion that this practice should virtually eliminate any oil-related issues.
Three jugs of ultra cost me like 72 bucks, and she will probably pay like $100 for labor to change the oil. That's less than $200 a year, absolutely worth it to protect your expensive SUV. I don't care how much life is left in that oil, just drain the thing out.
If things go south at least you won't be mad at yourself why you didn't do your part
 
I got $30 from Walmart as well, I need to figure out how to spend this loot. This was for the purchase that I made from the store.


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