Mobil 1 vs Mobil 1 EP

[SavetheRimBrake]

L15b7 1.5L turbo with direct injection, daily driver and driven fairly gently and doing 5k change intervals

The EP doesn't seem much more expensive than the regular stuff, is it worth using instead? Car only has 11k miles on the clock so far

 

[NO2]

Either is fine. I use EP for 12-15K OCI on a PI NA engine. For our DI NA engine, we change it every 6K. That way we don't have to buy 2 kinds of oil. For the warranty period, I would use the OCI recommended by Honda.

 

[buster]

For 5k mile drains, no. But as you said the difference in price is small. EP is boosted for the longer drain intervals.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

There is no real world benefit to EP for 5k interval. In fact for that interval I would probably just use Mobil Full Synthetic.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

L15b7 1.5L turbo with direct injection, daily driver and driven fairly gently and doing 5k change intervals

The EP doesn't seem much more expensive than the regular stuff, is it worth using instead? Car only has 11k miles on the clock so far

It meets the TGDI timing chain wear test found latest API spec SP. It's only worth it if you extend your interval to the lesser of 1 year or 20k miles. You're paying for the extended interval.

 

[SavetheRimBrake]

Either is fine. I use EP for 12-15K OCI on a PI NA engine. For our DI NA engine, we change it every 6K. That way we don't have to buy 2 kinds of oil. For the warranty period, I would use the OCI recommended by Honda.

Following the internal maintenance minder would push the intervals to close to 10k miles at the rate I'm going (changing at 5k shows 50% oil life left). There are many reasons I don't want to do this, and can't think of any reason to drag the intervals out for the warranty. I'm already kind of concerned doing the work myself, since if I have a warranty problem Honda can come back to me with "we don't have any way to know if the oil was changed properly" even though I'm doing an arguably better job than the dealer.

 

[doublebase]

Following the internal maintenance minder would push the intervals to close to 10k miles at the rate I'm going (changing at 5k shows 50% oil life left). There are many reasons I don't want to do this, and can't think of any reason to drag the intervals out for the warranty. I'm already kind of concerned doing the work myself, since if I have a warranty problem Honda can come back to me with "we don't have any way to know if the oil was changed properly" even though I'm doing an arguably better job than the dealer.

Keep your receipts, oil and filter. That should be enough, if not, I guess you could take a video or pictures, but receipts should be enough. As for the oil life monitor, keep in mind that the second half of that 50% should tick away much faster than the first. Most algorithm oil life systems will compensate for the mileage already on the oil, and tick away much quicker as you go. But I get what you’re saying, you want to keep it to 5,000 miles.

 

[PWMDMD]

Following the internal maintenance minder would push the intervals to close to 10k miles at the rate I'm going (changing at 5k shows 50% oil life left). There are many reasons I don't want to do this, and can't think of any reason to drag the intervals out for the warranty. I'm already kind of concerned doing the work myself, since if I have a warranty problem Honda can come back to me with "we don't have any way to know if the oil was changed properly" even though I'm doing an arguably better job than the dealer.

If you have receipts and a log and at the time of the service there is the proper amount of oil in the engine and depending on the problem if they have a look inside the engine and it doesn't look like a neglected engine then I really wouldn't worry.

Most if not all warranty denials I've seen have been no receipts, no log, the engine had too little or too much oil, and when they looked inside clearly the oil was not being changed at the recommended OCI.

Could a manufacturer claim it was improperly done when it was done properly? Sure, but why?

 

[Bighorn2500]

Just use the plain vanilla Mobil 1 and use the $2-$3 you save over EP and invest it in a 20 micron rated filter.

 

[SavetheRimBrake]

Keep your receipts, oil and filter. That should be enough, if not, I guess you could take a video or pictures, but receipts should be enough. As for the oil life monitor, keep in mind that the second half of that 50% should tick away much faster than the first. Most algorithm oil life systems will compensate for the mileage already on the oil, and tick away much quicker as you go. But I get what you’re saying, you want to keep it to 5,000 miles.

Didn’t know that, good bit of info. I guess I follow that “oil is cheap, engines are not” mindset. When it costs me $30 and 30 minutes to have fresh quality oil, I don’t really feel like dragging it out.

My main curiosity with using the extended performance oil for short intervals was what I assumed to be more additives in EP which might protect better, seeing as 0w-20 thins out and evaporates a bit with time. I would assume that the EP variant is less prone to this since it’s designed to be run longer. 5qt of regular M1 is now 27 bucks at Walmart, EP is 29, and I don’t even use the full bottle for one change.

 

[doublebase]

Didn’t know that, good bit of info. I guess I follow that “oil is cheap, engines are not” mindset. When it costs me $30 and 30 minutes to have fresh quality oil, I don’t really feel like dragging it out.

My main curiosity with using the extended performance oil for short intervals was what I assumed to be more additives in EP which might protect better, seeing as 0w-20 thins out and evaporates a bit with time. I would assume that the EP variant is less prone to this since it’s designed to be run longer. 5qt of regular M1 is now 27 bucks at Walmart, EP is 29, and I don’t even use the full bottle for one change.

I’ve definitely used Mobil1 EP 0W20 in the past (three times in the last 14 months) for 10,000 mile oil changes, and it did actually shear a little bit, but otherwise the UOA came back unbelievable. I’ve since kicked it down to 6,000 mile intervals - right now I’m using Amalie synthetic - but I’d go back to the Mobil1 EP again, and probably will.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I tried digging around into the MSDS for both about 6 months ago and could not see much difference - however they don't really tell you about the base stock in the MSDS - both say "Synthetic Base Stocks and Additives" and the other things listed are pretty much the same.

I wish I knew. I keep using EP. The one benefit is that when they did the rebates in the past EP had a $10 rebate and regular was $5, so if that happens again I will buy more EP.

 

[scotty.honda.dog]

I use M1 EP 0w20 in the L15BE in our 21 CRV just because it makes me feel better about the oil dilution issue/controversy and the fact that it is a turbo. I try to change around 30 pct oil life if it has been short tripped a lot in cold weather. Probably Overkill but that is what this is all about.

 

[silversport]

I tried digging around into the MSDS for both about 6 months ago and could not see much difference - however they don't really tell you about the base stock in the MSDS - both say "Synthetic Base Stocks and Additives" and the other things listed are pretty much the same.

I wish I knew. I keep using EP. The one benefit is that when they did the rebates in the past EP had a $10 rebate and regular was $5, so if that happens again I will buy more EP.

also a reason I went with Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 for my twin turbo 3.6...it was also recommended by the dealership (although not specifically recommended by the owners manual)...the last rebates made it so there was no difference in buying the more expensive "EP" oil and I thought I'd give it a go when I get mine changed this year...

my V-Sport is not a daily driver and I doubt I'll hit 4-5K miles before it's time to change again but I am a fan of Mobil 1 oils if fo no other reason than it was recommended for a C5 Corvette I owned in 2001 and I've mostly used it since...

Bill

 

[SavetheRimBrake]

Yea I feel good about M1 stuff. I have always had Amsoil floating around in the back of my mind, but I prefer to use very good oil and change every 5k, vs using a very very good oil and dragging it out to 10k. I’ve had this mentality even before I owned a DI Turbo car, and have used Mobil 1 in my cars and family cars for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. If their OE stuff was sold locally I would try it but their shipping costs and the whole “it makes sense to buy our membership” thing are not appealing to me. I just got 3x5qt jugs of EP for $90 with tax shipped which will last me 4 oil changes

I do use Rotella T6 5w-40 in my turbo Miata but that engine is built a little looser for power, and the extra ZDDP works well being catless.

 

[1BadManVan]

Mobil 1 0w20 Ep in my 5.7 hemi and our JL Wrangler

 

[SavetheRimBrake]

Just to throw another one into the mix, how does Penzoil Platinum (or Ultra Platinum) compare to M1 EP? Again, still sticking to 5k intervals with OEM filter, but just wondering. Not really coming from a cost perspective, but I hear good things. I'm kind of stuck on M1 because creatures of habit and I've used it almost exclusively for 2 decades.

Either one would be a 0w-20