Conventional oil direct injection

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Bullwinkle007

Joined
Feb 12, 2018
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685
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California
I have 2 vehicles both direct injected. 1 is a 2015 Acura MDX 3.5L and the other is 2020 Acura RDX 2L Turbo. With direct injection, and all the issues that come with that. I currently use M1 0/40 in both. The MDX OCI is 5K. The RDX is every 3K. Driven spirtited daily. With Nissan GTR engineer stating the old school way of changing oil every 3k miles, if you plan on keeping the vehicle beyond 300k miles which I do. I’m looking at 10/40 1 higher HTHS,

2 does NOACK matter if your on a 3k service interval? I believe a conventional oil doesn’t start to burn off in a good engine with regular port injection until your beyond the 3k mark.

A friend of mine builds LS engines, some are tracked others are not. His go to has always been a conventional 10/40.
 
That nissan mechanical engineer was some old guy that i doubt could tell you even the basic formulation compositions and differences between new and old oils. Probably a stickler and that's fine, one could argue you should change that frequently in an expensive sports car anyway. But at 3k intervals noack doesn't matter much and you're already using a thicker oil so it's fine.

LS engines will run on peanut oil, he could've been using sae 30 from tractor supply and not a single engine would've blown up. I personally use 15w-40 in my gas trucks though anything that isn't dual rated shouldn't be used in small turbo gdi engine imo.
 
NOAK matters most at the beginning of the OCI.
Bullwinkle007 said:
I have 2 vehicles both direct injected. 1 is a 2015 Acura MDX 3.5L and the other is 2020 Acura RDX 2L Turbo. With direct injection, and all the issues that come with that. I currently use M1 0/40 in both. The MDX OCI is 5K. The RDX is every 3K. Driven spirtited daily. With Nissan GTR engineer stating the old school way of changing oil every 3k miles, if you plan on keeping the vehicle beyond 300k miles which I do. I’m looking at 10/40 1 higher HTHS,

2 does NOACK matter if your on a 3k service interval? I believe a conventional oil doesn’t start to burn off in a good engine with regular port injection until your beyond the 3k mark.

A friend of mine builds LS engines, some are tracked others are not. His go to has always been a conventional 10/40.
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NOACK could matter because the lighter fractions burn off off at the beginning of the OCI. Continue with M1 0w40 or switch to M1 ESP 5w30/ Shell Euro L 5w30 if you're concerned about intake deposits.

As for the Nissan GTR Engineer see below. Your post is what I was afraid of.

Former Nissan GT-R lead engineer on oil change frequency

I just thought people here might be interested.
bobistheoilguy.com
 
JavierH19 said:
That nissan mechanical engineer was some old guy that i doubt could tell you even the basic formulation compositions and differences between new and old oils. Probably a stickler and that's fine, one could argue you should change that frequently in an expensive sports car anyway. But at 3k intervals noack doesn't matter much and you're already using a thicker oil so it's fine.

LS engines will run on peanut oil, he could've been using sae 30 from tractor supply and not a single engine would've blown up. I personally use 15w-40 in my gas trucks though anything that isn't dual rated shouldn't be used in small turbo gdi engine imo.
Click to expand...
Yes. He’s an old guy. But has an ICE engine changed at all? NO not really since the early 90s. That’s when we started seeing DOHC but other than that all the parts are still the same. Yes metal technologies, carbs to port injection to direct injection.

With short OCI. Maybe try full synthetic 10/40 super tech oil. 16.00 bux so 2 oil changes at the cost of 1 using M1 0/40. I’d rather have more frequent oil changes, and have more of a consistent viscosity than having fuel dilution and go along distance with that gas mixed in there. And even with fuel dilution using 1040 probably at 3000 miles is more like a 1030.
 
Bullwinkle007 said:
Yes. He’s an old guy. But has an ICE engine changed at all? NO not really since the early 90s. That’s when we started seeing DOHC but other than that all the parts are still the same. Yes metal technologies, carbs to port injection to direct injection.

With short OCI. Maybe try full synthetic 10/40 super tech oil. 16.00 bux so 2 oil changes at the cost of 1 using M1 0/40. I’d rather have more frequent oil changes, and have more of a consistent viscosity than having fuel dilution and go along distance with that gas mixed in there. And even with fuel dilution using 1040 probably at 3000 miles is more like a 1030.
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Don't know if you can get full syn 10w-40 off the shelf anymore. But syn blend 10w-40 changed every 3k wouldn't be bad, But I'd suggest using a CK/SN oils like delvac 1300, supertech diesel, and delo sde, whichever's cheapest. they have a higher hths and less VII to be sheared than 0/5/10w-40. Rotella t4/5/6, delvac extreme, and other CK only oils shouldn't be used. CK oils have a lot of calcium but dual rated oils are a mix of calc and mag and are mid saps.
 
buster said:
I'll never understand why people cheap out on oil. Engines are expensive. One tank of gas costs more than a 5qt jug of Mobil 1. Just blows my mind honestly. To each their own.
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Maybe I'm missing something. Won't any oil, even the cheap stuff, that meets specs for the car, be fine for every oil change interval? Assuming car is maintained at correct intervals of course. So, Mobil 1 > Supertech, but does it matter for most people? Like I said, correct spec, OCI, maintenance done on time, etc. not a concern IMHO. My .02...
 
buster said:
I'll never understand why people cheap out on oil. Engines are expensive. One tank of gas costs more than a 5qt jug of Mobil 1. Just blows my mind honestly. To each their own.
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I never understand it on OPE. My lawnmowers take so little oil compared to my truck that I don't mind buying better oil for them. I put Motul 20w50 in my Kohler 23hp and m1 0w40 in the OHV Briggs in my 2010 Ariens snowblower, along with my flathead mowers. Putting good oil in the small stuff has very little financial effect compared to putting it in my 2005 Silverado that needs 5.7L of oil every 4-5 months.
 
Bullwinkle007 said:
I have 2 vehicles both direct injected. 1 is a 2015 Acura MDX 3.5L and the other is 2020 Acura RDX 2L Turbo. With direct injection, and all the issues that come with that. I currently use M1 0/40 in both. The MDX OCI is 5K. The RDX is every 3K. Driven spirtited daily. With Nissan GTR engineer stating the old school way of changing oil every 3k miles, if you plan on keeping the vehicle beyond 300k miles which I do. I’m looking at 10/40 1 higher HTHS,

2 does NOACK matter if your on a 3k service interval? I believe a conventional oil doesn’t start to burn off in a good engine with regular port injection until your beyond the 3k mark.

A friend of mine builds LS engines, some are tracked others are not. His go to has always been a conventional 10/40.
Click to expand...
There aren't many oils that are an upgrade from M1 0W-40 and changing more frequently than you already are is nothing more than a waste of time and resources.
 
If these are GDI engines that are known to have fuel dilution, excessive carbon build-up on the backs of the intake valves, etc, I'd be more about appropriate OCIs and lower cost oils than buying expensive oils to stretch the OCI. Everyone has a different take on it, but for me, the only point in a high cost oil is to extend the OCI. Unless your vehicle requires that oil of course.
 
In all honesty, at 3k miles, your plan will work just fine. Will the engine be as clean and free of varnish, maybe, maybe not. But i seriously doubt you'll run into any lubrication issues.

We all have our positions on this and although mine may be different from yours, i can't say we'll have a different end result.
 
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ATex7239 said:
That difference in cost is the price of the #1 meal at Chick-fil-A…
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Theres a Chick Fil A right next to Walmart where I am. I get the Supertech and then eat lunch at Chick Fil A. Same prie as Mobil 1

:)

I'm jut funning you, but the supertech is fine. I change my oil every 5K or so, so I'm probably wasting money getting Mobil 1 or even Castrol Edge I used last time.
 
wpod said:
Who has worn out a properly maintained engine despite the properly rated, major oil companies base oil blend or oil filter type?
Click to expand...
Based on the average age of US vehicles being at an all-time high despite 99.97% of them not being operated/maintained by OCD Bitoggers the vehicle/lube industry must be doing something right.
 
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