Direct Inject Turbo car with 125k miles and short commute, what's best?

[msp3]

I've gone around in circles trying to figure this out. I've got a 2012 Mazdaspeed3 and I'm trying to figure out an oil that will keep her going as long as possible. It's a turbo with direct injection, 125k on the clock. I've read about dexos2 or 'euro' oils being better. My current commute is about 10 miles so more short'ish trips with 1-2 longer trips per week. Yearly mileage estimate from last car is 10k a year. I'm new at this. Have had several older beat up cars that it was just 'whatever in spec on sale' was what they got.

 

[Rand]

whats a "1012 Mazdaspeed3" typo?
Is it tuned?
Consider reading the forums there are about 100 posts on this
@kschachn probably keeps a list of threads on his clipboard.

 

[msp3]

Yes, a typo, fixed sorry. Not tuned. Intake/exhaust and a motor mount. And yes, I've been around and around in Speed forums, with approximately 12 different suggestions from a bunch of people who probably know much about their cars in general so I thought I'd try with people who geek out about oil.

 

[dnewton3]

Welcome to the site!

The reason you're going "around in circles" is because you presume there to be one single "best" lube. This is a false presumption. There is no perfect, "best" oil for every application. There are many good oils that will meet the needs of your engine in your specific application. Please don't fall into the mindset that there's a "best" oil; that's a common misconception in the general public, and even many noobs here.

Pick a good oil that meets/exceeds the specs for your engine (of which there are a lot of them), and shift your worry to something else in life.

 

[msp3]

Welcome to the site!

The reason you're going "around in circles" is because you presume there to be one single "best" lube. This is a false presumption. There is no perfect, "best" oil for every application. There are many good oils that will meet the needs of your engine in your specific application. Please don't fall into the mindset that there's a "best" oil; that's a common misconception in the general public, and even many noobs here.

Pick a good oil that meets/exceeds the specs for your engine (of which there are a lot of them), and shift your worry to something else in life.

True of so many things in life. Appreciate the advice.

 

[shortyb]

With an older, forced induction DI engine that is a little more stressed, especially for short trips, I'd use an oil that is good at dealing with fuel dilution. Had good results in mine with Castrol 0W-40 for fuel, but there are others that will do well too. What are they suggesting in the Speed forums?

 

[proveitwithdata]

any modern day off the shelf oil works, just need to keep the interval in check for fi gdi vehicles is my takeway.

 

[burbguy82]

I would use a good oil, do a 3 month, 3000 miles run, and do an analysis. Post the analysis on here, and I am sure many will let you know a more specific recommendation.

If, not, go with a good syn SP oil and change frequently

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

API SP in whatever grade Mazda recommends. Perform a UOA to see how much fuel dilution you're getting. If it's close to 5 percent then move up a grade if you wish.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I've gone around in circles trying to figure this out. I've got a 2012 Mazdaspeed3 and I'm trying to figure out an oil that will keep her going as long as possible. It's a turbo with direct injection, 125k on the clock. I've read about dexos2 or 'euro' oils being better. My current commute is about 10 miles so more short'ish trips with 1-2 longer trips per week. Yearly mileage estimate from last car is 10k a year. I'm new at this. Have had several older beat up cars that it was just 'whatever in spec on sale' was what they got.

Did you own this vehicle since new? How's the maintenance history been thus far? What engine oil did you use up to this point?

 

[twX]

My current commute is about 10 miles so more short'ish trips with 1-2 longer trips per week. Yearly mileage estimate from last car is 10k a year.

If that's 10 miles each way, that's really not that short of a commute. Your engine should be getting near full temperature, depending on the weather. Combined with the longer trips, I wouldn't expect your use to be that hard on the oil, and fuel dilution should be reasonable.

I'd go with a 5k mile/6 month OCI with any API SP / Dexos1 Gen3 oil. D1G3 is stringent in terms of sludge control, which is probably the main concern for short-tripped vehicles.

If you go with a Euro oil, choose one that is ACEA C3 and MB 229.51 or 229.52. Avoid oils with high calcium to prevent LSPI. Whether your engine would benefit from a thicker euro grade depends on how hot your oil gets, which depends on your climate and how hard you beat on the engine.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Avoid oils with high calcium to prevent LSPI.

The Mazda 2.3 DISI engine is not GDI, it's MPI. No issues with LSPI. The OP can run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 in that engine if he wants to, which by the way, is API SP, so it's safe to use even in T-GDI and GDI engines.

 

[chris719]

The Mazda 2.3 DISI engine is not GDI, it's MPI. No issues with LSPI. The OP can run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 in that engine if he wants to, which by the way, is API SP, so it's safe to use even in T-GDI and GDI engines.

It’s GDI I’m pretty sure, not that it matters. The aftermarket sells port injection kits. I agree with your recommendation on the FS 0W-40.

 

[Malo83]

Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in both daughter KIA Soul 1.6 Turbo and my 17 Regal GS 2.0 Turbo.

 

[Cary]

From what I can find Mazda specs a 0w-20 oil and allows for a 30 weight. My two cents, pick up a 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetic from whichever major oil producer you prefer or has the best price (i.e. Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker State, Pennzoil, etc.). The recommendations of using a Dexos 1 Gen 3 and/or ACEA C3 and MB 229.51 or 229.52, or VW 504.00/507.00, or BMW LL-04, will ensure you are getting a top quality oil within those selections. Changing at 5,000 miles may be conservative, but is a very safe and easy to remember interval.

Personally, I would use Mobil 1 5w-30 or 5w-30ESP, either of which are available for right at $30 for five quart jugs from Amazon. You can often get down to the low twenty dollar range if you buy the same spec oils from other other brands at Walmart. I don't want to spend the time and energy to drive and hope Walmart has stock, when it can just be delivered to my door.

 

[Rand]

The Mazda 2.3 DISI engine is not GDI, it's MPI. No issues with LSPI. The OP can run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 in that engine if he wants to, which by the way, is API SP, so it's safe to use even in T-GDI and GDI engines.

Do you know what DISI stands for?
But not really relevant.. to what oil.. maybe to the OCI.



hint: Direct injection Spark ignition.

 

[CarDoc66]

Your OCI may be more important than the oil you choose.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Do you know what DISI stands for?
But not really relevant.. to what oil.. maybe to the OCI.



hint: Direct injection Spark ignition.

My bad, it stands for Direct Injection Spark Ignition. Back in 2006 I had a Mazdaspeed 6 for a few days from our dealer. GDI wasn't even a thing back then, neither was LSPI a concern. I don't think LSPI is an issue for these engines. It's been so long, I didn't even think that those engines were direct injection. Sorry about that.

 

[MVAR]

The PCV system isn’t great on those 2.3’s(used to own a Speed6). They’re nearly as bad as the old Audi/VW/BMW engines for intake valve deposits.

That said, had mine for a couple years & ran Amsoil SS 5/30 without issue. Wasn’t puffing black soot at 45k mi so it wasn’t coked up too bad, like a couple Speed3 guys in town that already had their intakes walnut shell blasted by 40k.

I do hope your high pressure fuel pump has been upgraded. My old car ran too lean stock. Mechanical fuel pump was first engine mod & nearly all I did to the engine itself.

If I still had the old Speed6 I’d likely run Amsoil SS 5/30 or HPL PCMO 5/30. 5/40 in either if in a hot area. Hopefully the group 5 in these would hold off intake deposits.

Mobile, Castrol & Pennzoil all make solid oils though too & are easy to source.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

The PCV system isn’t great on those 2.3’s(used to own a Speed6). They’re nearly as bad as the old Audi/VW/BMW engines for intake valve deposits.

That said, had mine for a couple years & ran Amsoil SS 5/30 without issue. Wasn’t puffing black soot at 45k mi so it wasn’t coked up too bad, like a couple Speed3 guys in town that already had their intakes walnut shell blasted by 40k.

I do hope your high pressure fuel pump has been upgraded. My old car ran too lean stock. Mechanical fuel pump was first engine mod & nearly all I did to the engine itself.

If I still had the old Speed6 I’d likely run Amsoil SS 5/30 or HPL PCMO 5/30. 5/40 in either if in a hot area. Hopefully the group 5 in these would hold off intake deposits.

Mobile, Castrol & Pennzoil all make solid oils though too & are easy to source.

Wouldn't an oil catch can help?