Maybe all oil isn’t the same?

[2CHEVYS]

Hello everyone, long time reader, first time poster here. I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever experienced what I have on their truck or car.

I own a 2014 silverado that I purchased new. It’s got a 5.3 V8 with 80k on the clock. For the last 3 years or so it’s pretty much been parked in its spot and gets taken out on the weekends or camping trips to the desert (we live in San Diego). I don’t tow anything heavy (dirt bikes). I don’t hot rod it around or abuse it. I like to take care of my stuff. And it’s been a great truck to me and my family.

So, from day 1 I’ve used regular Mobil 1 0w20 dexos approved oil as called for in the manual. I’ve changed the oil at 5k intervals regardless of what the oil life monitor says. And about 2 years ago it developed a really weird, inconsistent tick around cyl 1.

TICK—— TICKTICKTICK——TICK———————TICKTICK————-TICKTICKTICK

each tick or ticks were 1 to 3 seconds apart

Now I’ve heard bad things about hydraulic lifter failure with these motors so I thought “oh great here we go”.

At the next oil Change by some random chance I tried regular valvoline 0w20. And IMMEDIATELY. The tick was gone. And 2 years went by and it never came back.

So, about a month ago the wife and I are at Costco and I saw the M1 on sale so I picked up a couple cases. I did my normal oil change using the same ac delco pf63 oil filter I always use and to my surprise that ol tick was back! Even my wife was like “dang! what the heck is that?” I was scratching my head too! That night it was really bugging me so I decided screw it, I’m gonna eat the cost of another oil change and go to Walmart and buy the valvoline again just to see what happens. I went and got Valvoline EP 0w20, rolled under the truck again, dumped the brand new oil, replaced the brand new filter, and I kid you not the tick was instantly gone again. I even dragged the wife outside just to have a witness.

My question is how is this possible? I know different companies use a little this or a little that here n there different but, come on, how much difference could it make? For the most part all big box oils with the same certs are gonna perform pretty much the same right? So why does my truck not like M1 anymore?
I guess I’m just going to stick with Valvoline now. I just find it to be so weird. Sorry for the long story. I figure if there’s anyplace to ask about this kind of thing it’s here. Just was wondering if anyone else has heard of something like this.

 

[ZeeOSix]

My question is how is this possible? I know different companies use a little this or a little that here n there different but, come on, how much difference could it make?

Valvoline may have more Moly, which can help by providing less friction which could impact how parts slide and react with each other. The Ford Coyote 5.0L V8 is known for what they call the "BBQ tick", and some oils and oil additives make the tick go away. BTW, my Coyote likes Valvoline 5W-30, but it was never a ticker to begin with, but does sound a bit better with the Valvoline than it did on Motorcraft 5W-20.

Was this ticking in your truck all the time, even after fully warmed up? Did it tick with the cold oil too, or just start ticking after warm-up. Detail like that might help focus in on it better.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Zee has a good point about the moly...that could very well be a factor. Bottom line: some engines just like a certain kind of oil better, and we may not always know why!

 

[kschachn]

What a surprise, a new user just joined to inform us of how Mobil 1 causes noise.

So why does my truck not like M1 anymore?
I guess I’m just going to stick with Valvoline now. I just find it to be so weird. Sorry for the long story. I figure if there’s anyplace to ask about this kind of thing it’s here. Just was wondering if anyone else has heard of something like this.

Many existing threads on this subject and if you've been around a while you haven't seen them? And no, not all oil is the same.

 

[Cujet]

It could also be oil pressure related. There are OHC engines that "jump time" due to timing chain tensioners not having enough oil pressure at idle to do the job, a slightly worn, slack chain then jumps a tooth or two. The same goes for hydraulic lifters, if oil pressure is low enough, they often don't function properly.

One possible oil pressure clue is if this is just at idle, or if the tick continues as RPM increases.

Oils often use different base stocks and even within a brand like M1, each viscosity and type can be different, giving different results.

Guessing here, a step up in viscosity with M1 might also mitigate the ticking noise.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Hello everyone, long time reader, first time poster here. I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever experienced what I have on their truck or car.

I own a 2014 silverado that I purchased new. It’s got a 5.3 V8 with 80k on the clock. For the last 3 years or so it’s pretty much been parked in its spot and gets taken out on the weekends or camping trips to the desert (we live in San Diego). I don’t tow anything heavy (dirt bikes). I don’t hot rod it around or abuse it. I like to take care of my stuff. And it’s been a great truck to me and my family.

So, from day 1 I’ve used regular Mobil 1 0w20 dexos approved oil as called for in the manual. I’ve changed the oil at 5k intervals regardless of what the oil life monitor says. And about 2 years ago it developed a really weird, inconsistent tick around cyl 1.

TICK—— TICKTICKTICK——TICK———————TICKTICK————-TICKTICKTICK

each tick or ticks were 1 to 3 seconds apart

Now I’ve heard bad things about hydraulic lifter failure with these motors so I thought “oh great here we go”.

At the next oil Change by some random chance I tried regular valvoline 0w20. And IMMEDIATELY. The tick was gone. And 2 years went by and it never came back.

So, about a month ago the wife and I are at Costco and I saw the M1 on sale so I picked up a couple cases. I did my normal oil change using the same ac delco pf63 oil filter I always use and to my surprise that ol tick was back! Even my wife was like “dang! what the heck is that?” I was scratching my head too! That night it was really bugging me so I decided screw it, I’m gonna eat the cost of another oil change and go to Walmart and buy the valvoline again just to see what happens. I went and got Valvoline EP 0w20, rolled under the truck again, dumped the brand new oil, replaced the brand new filter, and I kid you not the tick was instantly gone again. I even dragged the wife outside just to have a witness.

My question is how is this possible? I know different companies use a little this or a little that here n there different but, come on, how much difference could it make? For the most part all big box oils with the same certs are gonna perform pretty much the same right? So why does my truck not like M1 anymore?
I guess I’m just going to stick with Valvoline now. I just find it to be so weird. Sorry for the long story. I figure if there’s anyplace to ask about this kind of thing it’s here. Just was wondering if anyone else has heard of something like this.

More detail please. What were the two oil filters you used?

 

[PimTac]

Now you have a lot of M1 in the garage.

 

[RTexasF]

More detail please. What were the two oil filters you used?

It's in the post:
I did my normal oil change using the same ac delco pf63 oil filter I always use and to my surprise that ol tick was back!

 

[userfriendly]

Maybe M-1 is the cause of Tourette Syndrom in engines?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

"Oil is Oil" in regards to simply having 'No Oil' or "Oil"

Are you sure you don't have the well documented LS engine series exhaust leak?

I get chewed for mentioning this following old lore as I don't have the backing document in my purse, but a very trusted and no-nonsense Subaru Service Manager (who is now my indie mechanic for my wife's subaru when out of service (for stuff I am not inclined to do )
confided to me (many, many years ago) that there was an internal memo circulated that cautioned against using Mobil 1 5W30 motor oil in the EJ255/257 and FA20D as this lubricant " ... did not adequate resolve small motions ..." among other statements that he could not recall.

The lubricant has certainly changed since then. But is this a surface tension or affinity property?
This is possibly where you would close two surfaces then separate them slightly and the oil would not break apart, but instead form and retain an "hourglass" fluid shape between two surfaces until they close and then separate again, periodically.
Now this cannot occur with any lubricant if there is not sufficient bathing, splash or fogging of the parts, and aerodynamics in enclosed cases can get complicated, with the rotational or the reciprocating period being a primary consideration that can induced myraid effects.

I can see this in OHV engine with rockers, but not necessarily on a a inverted bucket DOHC head. Possibly the cam ramp is extreme and may loose contact over the nose on the closing ramp. Nothing you would expect at Idle. Note that subaru heads are layed over.

Back to the OP problem, the LS train is net lash and any wear in the vt including pushrod ball and socket could lead to excess lash outside of the lifter accommodation. if the oil was a major issue it would be noted on more than one cylinder. Slight vt ticking is usually not a major concern.

Remember the old saying," this engine is a dandy; she runs like a sewing machine"

- Ken

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Hello everyone, long time reader, first time poster here. I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever experienced what I have on their truck or car.

I own a 2014 silverado that I purchased new. It’s got a 5.3 V8 with 80k on the clock. For the last 3 years or so it’s pretty much been parked in its spot and gets taken out on the weekends or camping trips to the desert (we live in San Diego). I don’t tow anything heavy (dirt bikes). I don’t hot rod it around or abuse it. I like to take care of my stuff. And it’s been a great truck to me and my family.

So, from day 1 I’ve used regular Mobil 1 0w20 dexos approved oil as called for in the manual. I’ve changed the oil at 5k intervals regardless of what the oil life monitor says. And about 2 years ago it developed a really weird, inconsistent tick around cyl 1.

TICK—— TICKTICKTICK——TICK———————TICKTICK————-TICKTICKTICK

each tick or ticks were 1 to 3 seconds apart

Now I’ve heard bad things about hydraulic lifter failure with these motors so I thought “oh great here we go”.

At the next oil Change by some random chance I tried regular valvoline 0w20. And IMMEDIATELY. The tick was gone. And 2 years went by and it never came back.

So, about a month ago the wife and I are at Costco and I saw the M1 on sale so I picked up a couple cases. I did my normal oil change using the same ac delco pf63 oil filter I always use and to my surprise that ol tick was back! Even my wife was like “dang! what the heck is that?” I was scratching my head too! That night it was really bugging me so I decided screw it, I’m gonna eat the cost of another oil change and go to Walmart and buy the valvoline again just to see what happens. I went and got Valvoline EP 0w20, rolled under the truck again, dumped the brand new oil, replaced the brand new filter, and I kid you not the tick was instantly gone again. I even dragged the wife outside just to have a witness.

My question is how is this possible? I know different companies use a little this or a little that here n there different but, come on, how much difference could it make? For the most part all big box oils with the same certs are gonna perform pretty much the same right? So why does my truck not like M1 anymore?
I guess I’m just going to stick with Valvoline now. I just find it to be so weird. Sorry for the long story. I figure if there’s anyplace to ask about this kind of thing it’s here. Just was wondering if anyone else has heard of something like this.

Welcome to world wide wrestling championship of oils , lubrication and discussions on just about any and everything under the sun. You just stepped right into it. Enjoy.

 

[2CHEVYS]

Wow thanks for all the responses,

A little more info

Filters : ac delco pf63 since new

Sound was mostly noticeable at idle, I can’t remember ever hearing it driving which probably means no.

And when it was occurring the first time it didn’t matter if it was warm or cold. The second time it happened I let it run like that for a few minutes and annoyed by it, I shut it down and dumped it the next morning.

just found it strange that after 6/7 years running the same oil all of a sudden it just started. Maybe a formula change? I’ve read about moly helping out a lot and since I’m not an engineer I’m gonna guess that’s what it is.

 

[Brian123]

Wow thanks for all the responses,

A little more info

Filters : ac delco pf63 since new

Sound was mostly noticeable at idle, I can’t remember ever hearing it driving which probably means no.

And when it was occurring the first time it didn’t matter if it was warm or cold. The second time it happened I let it run like that for a few minutes and annoyed by it, I shut it down and dumped it the next morning.

just found it strange that after 6/7 years running the same oil all of a sudden it just started. Maybe a formula change? I’ve read about moly helping out a lot and since I’m not an engineer I’m gonna guess that’s what it is.

Does your engine have Displacement On Demand, aka Cylinder Deactivation, or Active Fuel Management, AFM. My observation with Mobil 1 is that my engine is quieter versus the oil I was using before, of course the oil I am using now is thicker.

 

[2CHEVYS]

Does your engine have Displacement On Demand, aka Cylinder Deactivation, or Active Fuel Management, AFM. My observation with Mobil 1 is that my engine is quieter versus the oil I was using before, of course the oil I am using now is thicker.

It has the AFM set up. I’ve thought about going to 0w30 or 5w30 but the manual seems pretty serious about using only 0w20.

 

[ZeeOSix]

It has the AFM set up. I’ve thought about going to 0w30 or 5w30 but the manual seems pretty serious about using only 0w20.

It's not too serious when the word "recommended" is used.

 

[chris719]

"Oil is Oil" in regards to simply having 'No Oil' or "Oil"

Are you sure you don't have the well documented LS engine series exhaust leak?

I get chewed for mentioning this following old lore as I don't have the backing document in my purse, but a very trusted and no-nonsense Subaru Service Manager (who is now my indie mechanic for my wife's subaru when out of service (for stuff I am not inclined to do )
confided to me (many, many years ago) that there was an internal memo circulated that cautioned against using Mobil 1 5W30 motor oil in the EJ255/257 and FA20D as this lubricant " ... did not adequate resolve small motions ..." among other statements that he could not recall.

The lubricant has certainly changed since then. But is this a surface tension or affinity property?
This is possibly where you would close two surfaces then separate them slightly and the oil would not break apart, but instead form and retain an "hourglass" fluid shape between two surfaces until they close and then separate again, periodically.
Now this cannot occur with any lubricant if there is not sufficient bathing, splash or fogging of the parts, and aerodynamics in enclosed cases can get complicated, with the rotational or the reciprocating period being a primary consideration that can induced myraid effects.

I can see this in OHV engine with rockers, but not necessarily on a a inverted bucket DOHC head. Possibly the cam ramp is extreme and may loose contact over the nose on the closing ramp. Nothing you would expect at Idle. Note that subaru heads are layed over.

Back to the OP problem, the LS train is net lash and any wear in the vt including pushrod ball and socket could lead to excess lash outside of the lifter accommodation. if the oil was a major issue it would be noted on more than one cylinder. Slight vt ticking is usually not a major concern.

Remember the old saying," this engine is a dandy; she runs like a sewing machine"

- Ken

Sounds like Subaru BS blaming oil for their terrible engine designs.

 

[2CHEVYS]

It's not too serious when the word "recommended" is used.

I figured I’d see a chart with viscosity recommendation based on ambient temperature, but it says “do not use any other viscosity other than 0w20” what are you using?

 

[ZeeOSix]

I figured I’d see a chart with viscosity recommendation based on ambient temperature, but it says “do not use any other viscosity other than 0w20” what are you using?

I don't have your same vehicle, but I use 5W-30 in my vehicles ... and one calls out (recommends) 5W-20.

Got a shot of the manual statement? Very rare to see an OM say to say only use one viscosity, as they typically use the word "recommended".

 

[kschachn]

It's not too serious when the word "recommended" is used.

The only thing they are serious about is their CAFE credit letter stipulations.

For the 150th time.

 

[OVERKILL]

Try M1 0W-30, which should have the same additive package as the 0W-20. If the tick stays gone, you know it's viscosity, not additive package, related. The Mobil product may be lighter than the Valvoline one.