Oil for 2018 Ram 1500 Hemi

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Mar 26, 2022
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103
Location
Oklahoma
Hey guys, I’ve done a little bit of research on here but still wanted to post a thread anyways but I was just curious what your guy’s thoughts were on the mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic 5W 20 for my 2018 ram 1500 hemi.

I’ve ran this oil once before and got a pretty good used oil analysis report for it but here lately I’ve been primarily using the Schaeffers extreme 9000 5W 20 because it had really good results on a used oil analysis but because that stuff just keeps getting a lot more expensive, even on Amazon, I’m thinking about just going back to Mobil 1 because it’s cheaper and a lot easier to come by without having to order it.

I bought this truck brand new back in Christmas of 2017 and it’s had full synthetic engine oil ever since it had about 2300 miles on the odometer. It’s currently at about 52,000 miles and thankfully still no Hemi tick. As far as what oils I’ve used in the past, I started out using Pennzoil ultra premium the first three oil changes and then an interval of the Amsoil signature series that had really good results but since it’s just too danged expensive, I switched to the mobil one extended performance while I was waiting for the used oil analysis to come back on the very first run of the Schaeffers.

Right now I’m currently using Schaeffers and here in about the next thousand, 1500 miles when it comes time to do another oil change, I have enough oil to do one more oil change with the Schaeffers and then after that is what I’m probably gonna go back to using them mobil one.

As far as intervals, I try to change my oil about every 6000 to 6200 miles but when the truck was less than two years old, there was one interval where I let it go to 7500 miles just to see how far it would go before the oil change gauge on the dash told me when it was time to do an oil change.

Thanks.
 
It doesn't get too cold in Oklahoma. You could run any 30 or 40 grade euro oil off the wally shelf and that engine will still be better off than 95% of the other hemi's on the road which are getting regular 5w-20. The ms6395 spec can be met in a synthetic blend. Full syn isn't required.

I'm running quaker state euro 5w-40 in my 2021 6.2l gm truck instead of 0w-20, not a hemi i know. It's a bit quieter and still gets the same tank mpg. I change it about every 8k and that's fine for a euro oil, I'd expect it to have a tbn of around 4. A member posted a uoa of his Mercedes ml 350 having a tbn of 7 after 6500 miles with qs euro.
 
I'd say go for it. Definitely a solid choice.

I used PP 5w20 for a number of miles with good results. Only recently switched to 5w30, partially as an experiment.
When you say “PP” I don’t know if you’re talking about the Pennzoil platinum or the Pennzoil ultra premium but after the dealership did my very first oil change with some kind of full synthetic, that’s when I did the next three oil changes on my own that was with the Pennzoil ultra premium.

I really didn’t have any complaints with that oil but once I noticed the iron content and the other wear-metal content was still kinda high even after the truck’s 4th oil change and 23,000 miles accumulated, that’s when I quit using it and when I tried a run of the Amsoil SS and eventually ended up to where I am now with much lower numbers.
6000-7500 miles is not going to hurt anything. My OLM trips between 9500 and 10500 with my driving conditions.
Yeah, it probably isn’t but being that these engines have such high potential for ate up camshafts from cheesy, cheap steel lifters, I still try to keep my oil change intervals below 6500 miles and that’s even with the lifetime warranty on the truck which, I know probably wouldn’t make sense to most people but the way I look at it, if I ever had to take my truck in as a hemi tick statistic, there’s a good chance my dealership shop kind of put me on the back burner because it’s being paid for by warranty and not out of my own pocket so this is still kind of a preventative maintenance thing just to hopefully keep my truck out of the shop.
 
It doesn't get too cold in Oklahoma. You could run any 30 or 40 grade euro oil off the wally shelf and that engine will still be better off than 95% of the other hemi's on the road which are getting regular 5w-20. The ms6395 spec can be met in a synthetic blend. Full syn isn't required.

I'm running quaker state euro 5w-40 in my 2021 6.2l gm truck instead of 0w-20, not a hemi i know. It's a bit quieter and still gets the same tank mpg. I change it about every 8k and that's fine for a euro oil, I'd expect it to have a tbn of around 4. A member posted a uoa of his Mercedes ml 350 having a tbn of 7 after 6500 miles with qs euro.
I don’t know, as far as that whole 5W 20 versus 5W 30 debate, I’m not really sure where I stand on that and even though it’s awful intriguing that the manufacturer recommends 5W 20 for these engines but back when the heavy duty three-quarter ton pickups still ran pretty much the same exact engine before they started putting the 392 Hemi in those trucks, the recommended oil for those trucks was 5W 30…. And not to mention being that the 392 is almost the same engine as the 5.7, the recommended oil weight in those trucks is 0W40 weight… But anywho, because of my lifetime warranty is why I really can’t run anything other than a 5w20.

I’m really impressed in that Schaeffers extreme 9000 because even for a 5W 20 weight, the one and only time I sent that oil in for an analysis, the moly parts per million was 350 which was even higher than the Amsoil SS but as I said before, they’re starting to get really proud of that stuff and there’s nobody around me that sells it in a store…lol. Amazon is the cheapest but not even a year ago when I bought a case of that oil, it was only 146 bucks and now for the same case on Amazon, they want over 170.
 
Yes, Pennzoil Platinum.

IMO, the lifter issue isn't going to be prevented by a lubricant. It's a material issue. Just not something I'll be worried about until it's an issue. Fortunately, mine also is silent at almost 80,000 miles.
 
Yes, Pennzoil Platinum.

IMO, the lifter issue isn't going to be prevented by a lubricant. It's a material issue. Just not something I'll be worried about until it's an issue. Fortunately, mine also is silent at almost 80,000 miles.
I think thats where I pretty much stand on the issue too but I also believe running a good quality oil can make a difference. Maybe not good enough to completely prevent it but from what I’ve read- and believe me, I’ve done quite the reading on this issue, running an oil that has a very good anti-wear additive with a good quality filter that’s changed more often seems to work for a lot of people.

And no, because of my warranty, I’m really not dreading it even though it does happen to a lot of Hemi owners, I just wanna do what I can to make my chances better at not becoming a statistic. Otherwise I’d just put cheap oil/filters in it/on it and not change it until that gauge on my dash tells me to and when it breaks, slap a hundred dollar bill on the counter and say fix it…lol.
 
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I think thats where I pretty much stand on the issue too but I also believe running a good quality oil can make a difference. Maybe not good enough to completely prevent it but from what I’ve read- and believe me, I’ve done quite the reading on this issue, running an oil that has a very good anti-wear additive with a good quality filter that’s changed more often seems to work for a lot of people.

And no, because of my warranty, I’m really not dreading it even though it does happen to a lot of Hemi owners, I just wanna do what I can to make my chances better at not becoming a statistic. Otherwise I’d just put cheap oil/filters in it/on it and not change it until that gauge on my dash tells me to and when it breaks, slap a hundred dollar bill on the counter and say fix it…lol.
The dealer will almost never uoa an engine especially a domestic. 99% of the time they just check the oil level first then pull the valve cover to check to cleanliness if there aren't service records on hand unless it said on their dealer specific warranty docs that engine warranty claims will have any testing first.
 
Mobil 1 0W40 would be an excellent choice if out of warranty. The 392 specs 0W40, and has identical clearances. The Mobil 0w40 was the original SRT oil before the switch to pennzoil.
Yeah, I guess that’s one good thing about the partnership and the formation of the new company Stellantis between Fiat and Peugeot is that mobil 1 is now once again a Chrysler-approved engine oil.
 
The dealer will almost never uoa an engine especially a domestic. 99% of the time they just check the oil level first then pull the valve cover to check to cleanliness if there aren't service records on hand unless it said on their dealer specific warranty docs that engine warranty claims will have any testing first.
Yeah, that’s honestly not the first time I’ve heard that, but I don’t know, I’m just really scared to take that chance, and not only that, because I do keep very detailed records with receipts of what I use, they’ll know exactly what I’ve been using unless I come up with a plan that only shows what I bought and not what I used… Lol.
 
I've done UOA's on my 2016 every year since I've had it. First 3 changes were either Pennzoil Platinum or QSUD 5w-20 and last one was Mobil 1 5w-30. All were fine 5w-30 had slightly lower wear metals, but that was just 1 UOA so could be an anomoly. I'm going to use Mobil 1 5w-30 again when I change next month and will get another UOA. I'm just trying to give myself a heads up on Lifters failing. Mine has the occasional start up tick.

I think you'll be fine with whatever you choose.
 
I've done UOA's on my 2016 every year since I've had it. First 3 changes were either Pennzoil Platinum or QSUD 5w-20 and last one was Mobil 1 5w-30. All were fine 5w-30 had slightly lower wear metals, but that was just 1 UOA so could be an anomoly. I'm going to use Mobil 1 5w-30 again when I change next month and will get another UOA. I'm just trying to give myself a heads up on Lifters failing. Mine has the occasional start up tick.

I think you'll be fine with whatever you choose.
So far I’ve been pretty lucky. There’s been a couple times where I thought I may have had the lifter tick but I really think all that was, was that tick you can get when you restart the engine not long after starting at the first time when it was cold
and not letting it run very long and last summer I thought I was gonna have to schedule an appointment to see if I had fallen victim to the broken manifold bolts but my engine is still pretty much quiet at 52,000 miles.

But yeah, it’s better to catch that lifter tick in it’s early stages so that hopefully it won’t require a whole new motor.
 
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...as far as that whole 5W 20 versus 5W 30 debate...
I recently re-selected oils for two of our vehicles. I looked at spec sheets, noting 100 C viscosity and HTHS numbers where I could find it.

Most of your garden variety synthetic Xw-20 oils available at wally world are something like an 8.x for hot viscosity. Most of the garden variety synthetic Xw-30 oils are around 10. So most of the 30 weight oils that I've been using aren't that different than the 20s I've been using when hot. "Going up" to a 30, in many cases, isn't going up by a huge magnitude numerically. (That was convenient for me. Next change our small car will step up from a 0w-20 to the 5w-30 that our big car used to get.)

Then you look at some of the Euro/Dexos spec oils and they'll be a 12.x, but still a "30 weight." 40 grade oils will be in the high 12 to mid 13 range. So I learned:

1) Grade ratings are ranges, and may mean less (or more) than at first glance when comparing one to another.
2) Grade ratings are really just two data points on the curve and don't fully characterize what various oils do across a wide range of temperatures. Other numbers (like HTHS) might be another piece of the puzzle when considering two oils, same grade or otherwise.

I kinda figured running a little higher grade/viscosity oil can't hurt, since:
1) My manufacturers spec higher grade oils in other countries for the same engines. (Can of worms topic.)
2) My engine has to go through that viscosity range anyway as it's warming up.
 
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I've done UOA's on my 2016 every year since I've had it. First 3 changes were either Pennzoil Platinum or QSUD 5w-20 and last one was Mobil 1 5w-30. All were fine 5w-30 had slightly lower wear metals, but that was just 1 UOA so could be an anomoly. I'm going to use Mobil 1 5w-30 again when I change next month and will get another UOA. I'm just trying to give myself a heads up on Lifters failing. Mine has the occasional start up tick.

I think you'll be fine with whatever you choose.
Very curious about the next UOA
 
I recently re-selected oils for two of our vehicles. I looked at spec sheets, noting 100 C viscosity and HTHS numbers where I could find it.

Most of your garden variety synthetic Xw-20 oils available at wally world are something like an 8.x for hot viscosity. Most of the garden variety synthetic Xw-30 oils are around 10. So most of the 30 weight oils that I've been using aren't that different than the 20s I've been using when hot. "Going up" to a 30, in many cases, isn't going up by a huge magnitude numerically. (That was convenient for me. Next change our small car will step up from a 0w-20 to the 5w-30 that our big car used to get.)

Then you look at some of the Euro/Dexos spec oils and they'll be a 12.x, but still a "30 weight." 40 grade oils will be in the high 12 to mid 13 range. So I learned:

1) Grade ratings are ranges, and may mean less (or more) than at first glance when comparing one to another.
2) Grade ratings are really just two data points on the curve and don't fully characterize what various oils do across a wide range of temperatures. Other numbers (like HTHS) might be another piece of the puzzle when considering two oils, same grade or otherwise.

I kinda figured running a little higher grade/viscosity oil can't hurt, since:
1) My manufacturers spec higher grade oils in other countries for the same engines. (Can of worms topic.)
2) My engine has to go through that viscosity range anyway as it's warming up.
Interesting read there but when it comes to the 5W 20 versus 5W 30 discussion regarding the Hemi’s, I think it’s a lot more about the additives in the 30 than the viscosity of the oil. At least, that’s what I’ve read, anyways.
 
Oh and if anybody’s curious about my previous used oil analysis reports, here’s my latest one…

This was the mobil 1 extended performance. Before that on August 28, 2022, that was the Schaeffers 9000 extreme. The August 29, 2021 entry was the Amsoil SS and the first two on the right side of the column was the Pennzoil ultra premium.

IMG_0066.jpeg
 
So far I’ve been pretty lucky. There’s been a couple times where I thought I may have had the lifter tick but I really think all that was, was that tick you can get when you restart the engine not long after starting at the first time when it was cold
and not letting it run very long and last summer I thought I was gonna have to schedule an appointment to see if I had fallen victim to the broken manifold bolts but my engine is still pretty much quiet at 52,000 miles.

But yeah, it’s better to catch that lifter tick in it’s early stages so that hopefully it won’t require a whole new motor.
That's the same tick I get from time to time. Usually the back it out of the garage come back a couple hours and it ticks for a few seconds on the next start scenario. I've had my exhaust manifolds done on mine and they start off just ticking occasionally at startup and then get worse and worse.
 
Hey guys, I’ve done a little bit of research on here but still wanted to post a thread anyways but I was just curious what your guy’s thoughts were on the mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic 5W 20 for my 2018 ram 1500 hemi.

I’ve ran this oil once before and got a pretty good used oil analysis report for it but here lately I’ve been primarily using the Schaeffers extreme 9000 5W 20 because it had really good results on a used oil analysis but because that stuff just keeps getting a lot more expensive, even on Amazon, I’m thinking about just going back to Mobil 1 because it’s cheaper and a lot easier to come by without having to order it.

I bought this truck brand new back in Christmas of 2017 and it’s had full synthetic engine oil ever since it had about 2300 miles on the odometer. It’s currently at about 52,000 miles and thankfully still no Hemi tick. As far as what oils I’ve used in the past, I started out using Pennzoil ultra premium the first three oil changes and then an interval of the Amsoil signature series that had really good results but since it’s just too danged expensive, I switched to the mobil one extended performance while I was waiting for the used oil analysis to come back on the very first run of the Schaeffers.

Right now I’m currently using Schaeffers and here in about the next thousand, 1500 miles when it comes time to do another oil change, I have enough oil to do one more oil change with the Schaeffers and then after that is what I’m probably gonna go back to using them mobil one.

As far as intervals, I try to change my oil about every 6000 to 6200 miles but when the truck was less than two years old, there was one interval where I let it go to 7500 miles just to see how far it would go before the oil change gauge on the dash told me when it was time to do an oil change.

Thanks.
Pennzoil is the Only you should be using in the hemi
 
Been running whatever Full synthetic 5w20 that I find on sale/rebate or on rollback at the time in my brother’s 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 from about 130k till now, last change was 210k. He forgets it’s due most of the time so anywhere from 8k to 10k plus it’s brought over for a oil change and it’s still running getting around 20mpg. ( majority hwy). I don’t think the Hemi really cares what it runs as long as it gets changed by the OLM.
 
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