VR1 conventional. Good as synthetic?

H

hemijimmy

Joined
Feb 11, 2024
Messages
4
Hello all! Title says it all. Where does everyone think VR1 con. Stands against a name brand syn as far as wear protection? I've been using Pennzoil UP in my trucks, newer and old both pushing around 500hp. I've really been staring at the new formula vr1 since I watched this video. I'm not running catalytic converters on anything and I change oil every 3k or less depending on usage so I'm not concerned with longer drain intervals. I've always been a synthetic gotta guy but conventional gives me that warm "good cushioner" kinda vibe.
Side note, I'm looking to use their 10w30. Not 20w50
 
kschachn said:
And to OP, "wear protection" is not a function of base stock.
Click to expand...
That's generally true, synthetic won't provide less wear in some cases. However, in road race cars, a quality synthetic with a significantly higher HTHS will provide protection when oil temperatures climb into the high 200's, where a conventional oil can fail to protect.

Always remember the the oil film is what keeps parts, apart. ZDDP is there for when the oil film can't do the job. Aircraft piston engines do not use ZDDP, and instead use higher viscosity oils.
 
Given that you can purchase a quality synthetic motor oil at a very reasonable price why are you considering any conventional oil ?

Using Mobil1 0w-40 for an example, $27 for a five quart jug seems a very reasonable price for the value received.

It gives me the full warm and fuzzy feeling you mention. It might do the same for you.

Amazon link:


Z
 
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Around 3:10 minute mark, LSJ mentions that this lube "doesn't belong in any daily driver, any type of direct injection engine ..." and yet seconds later he then states the lube additive package has "changed because of the API SP and making the oils compatible with direct injection engines ..."

Further, I'll note that VR1 isn't even licensed for API SP; I don't know where he gets off even mentioning SP:

Results Detail

engineoil.api.org engineoil.api.org
These VR1 oils are all only licensed to SN and lower.

So if the point of VR1 isn't about using it in a DD or any DI engine, then why even bring up the compliance and compatibility of VR1 with SP?

To be fair, he does mention that generally this oil is for racing engines; OK, fine.
But it's just plain silly IMO to be mentioning DI engines and API SP as if those were significant criteria in this formulation. So why does he keep mentioning it?

The Valvoline product sheet even states this: "VR1 .... is not recommended for use in vehicles with catalytic converters ..."

So VR1 is basically a racing pedigree oil, and it's not intended for modern street vehicles. And yet he claims that the add pack was updated for SP concerns, even though it's actually only SN licensed ...

The more I watch his videos, the more I realize he just talks out of both sides of his mouth. He's educated and seems reasonably smart, but his YT content is just junk and doesn't fare well when you really dig into his statements. He's the more polished version of PF ... just another clickbait channel.
 
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zray1 said:
Given that you can purchase a quality synthetic motor oil at a very reasonable price why are you considering any conventional oil ?

Using Mobil1 0w-40 for an example, $27 for a five quart jug seems a very reasonable price for the value received.

It gives me the full warm and fuzzy feeling you mention. It might do the same for you.

Amazon link:


Z
Click to expand...
To my ear engines always seem quieter with a quality conventional. That euro grade oil I've tried before. I scooped up a few when it was I sale. It seemed to thin out super fast. In a SBC I'm running it made all kinds of valvetrain noise in less then 100 miles.
 
hemijimmy said:
I was looking into that as well but I've never been a fan of mobile 1. Stuff always seemed so thin
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These are the specs for M1 Racing 0W-30 and 0W-50. Nissan GTR guys like to use the 0W-30 version on the track because there is less crank windage, or because of he reduced churning losses so to speak. The 0W-50 will provide you with HD levels of HTHS. It's not how thick or thin the oil looks, it's the HTHS that ultimately matters, amongst other things.

1707834088636.webp


And this is a VOA for Mobil 1 0W-50 Racing oil:
(The 0W-30 is nearly identical in additive levels)

M1R+0W-50.webp


This oil is blended to resist oxidation, oxidative thickening, and provide an incredibly thick tribo-film. Yes, it's very good oil.
 
If your car has old cork and paper gaskets conventional may help reduce leaks.

If its rebuilt with modern gaskets I would run a synthetic with a zinc additive if you need it.

Synthetic is simply superior imo.
 
Vitamin Yoda said:
These are the specs for M1 Racing 0W-30 and 0W-50. Nissan GTR guys like to use the 0W-30 version on the track because there is less crank windage, or because of he reduced churning losses so to speak. The 0W-50 will provide you with HD levels of HTHS. It's not how thick or thin the oil looks, it's the HTHS that ultimately matters, amongst other things.

View attachment 203361

And this is a VOA for Mobil 1 0W-50 Racing oil:
(The 0W-30 is nearly identical in additive levels)

View attachment 203365

This oil is blended to resist oxidation, oxidative thickening, and provide an incredibly thick tribo-film. Yes, it's very good oil.
Click to expand...
Wow. Great info thanks. I've never heard of that 0w50. Analysis looks great. Definitely gonna be online thing. For some reason nobody around me carries anything unique. Even to find PUP 0w40 I have to go to a dodge dealership
 
I’ve used Vr1 20w50 conventional street version in 3 Harley’s. My 2009 Superglide has 50,000 miles and runs like new with no valve train noise even on the hottest days. Vr1 is available in conventional and synthetic and as a strictly race non cat version and a cat safe Street version. A member here, ( I can’t remember his user name ) that races motorcycles recommends it with uoa’s and voa’s and has said it’s right up there with several expensive synthetic boutique oils. IIRC the race/track synthetic version comes in black bottles.
 
"Synthetic" means nothing. You have to discuss a specific product, a specific oil formulation.
Also the application. What engine What powerdensity? Is this a street hot rod or some motorsports application?

I will say my splash lubed "chonda" OHV GENERAC generator liked 10W30 VR1 Syn along with a bit of added leftover MoS2 from some other a BITOG promoted disaster.

Air cooled. No more hot rod knocking. Good power, clean running - for over a decade of the SAME sump of oil.

If this is a somewhat turned up classic V8 - I say use it !
_______________________________________

I also think its funny and frankly somewhat embarrassing when some BITOG "heavies" get all twisted about a professional on YT stealing some of the BITOG thunder.
 
camrydriver111 said:
If your car has old cork and paper gaskets conventional may help reduce leaks.

If its rebuilt with modern gaskets I would run a synthetic with a zinc additive if you need it.

Synthetic is simply superior imo.
Click to expand...

Unless the zinc is blended with the oil at the refinery, it's not going to do jack ****. All you're doing is diluting the oil.

I wish people would stop spreading this
 
RagnarokCamaro said:
Unless the zinc is blended with the oil at the refinery, it's not going to do jack ****. All you're doing is diluting the oil.

I wish people would stop spreading this
Click to expand...
I'll have to tell my cam guy to stop sending me break-in lube with a new cam and tappets. Man They must be stupid.

Zinc blended at the refinery? Wow, I never stop learning stuff here.
___________________________________
@kschachn - How did I just do there?
 
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