Mobil 1 SUV & Truck Formula!!! 5w-40

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Patman,

Yes, OK. I'll give you credit for catching my mistake. When I said, "M1 0W-40 has shown to stay in grade...," I was obviously making the same mistake that I've railed against in the past. This is not a satisfactory way to classify an oil's performance. In fact, we've already agreed that 3MP should not use this type of classification during the course of his long-term oil study, right? We decided that the only valid method for judging an oil's viscosity stability is by its percentage of change. This is what I've been saying for the past year, & what everyone agreed is only fair when comparing oils in 3MP's study.

You & I have also discussed how oil "grades" are really no more than marketing tools; a way of making different oil formulations intelligible to uninformed consumers. We say one oil is a "high 30 wt" while another is a "low 40 wt" & we think there's a discernable difference, when in reality they're closer in viscosity than the "high 30 wt" is to a "low 30 wt"! As we've discussed before, viscosity is a continuous scale & "grades" are nothing more than a convenient way to group them.

"Stay in grade" is the biggest lie we can perpetuate at this site!

We need to get away from these simple-minded classifications & start measuring changes in percentages, not gross blocks of meaningless "grades." At the very least, let's track the changes in cSt. It's not as precise as percentage changes, but at least it gives a meaningful picture of what's going on (unlike "stays in grade," which means nothing).

So yes, I used a term I've previously acknowledged as meaningless. So for my earlier statements, when I said "stay in grade," I really meant to say "retains its viscosity better." It wasn't intentional; I'll try to not let it happen again.

As far as my always claiming EC thins: no, I don't. My comment that you quoted above says M1 retains its viscosity better than EC under comparable conditions. My arguments are always geared towards the erroneous belief that M1 takes a huge shear hit in every use. Lately, these spurious claims have been paired with the dubious "proof" of EC's everlasting stability. If everyone's tired of having me bring up this up time & again, then I'd suggest not continuing to hold up invalid data & unusable comparisons as a standard to measure against.

I know we're in agreement that each oil is good (providing it's only for the other person's use!). I've said so about EC at least a half-dozen times, & now you've said so about M1. I'd possibly even give EC a try (in my non-turbo) if it was readily available in my area. But I'm not as zealous as you are, & I'm unwilling to expend inordinate amounts of time & money looking for something which is proving no better than what I'm already using.

-Greg
 
Hopefully some of the guys I know who are running M1 0w40 in their LS1 engines will take my advice and get a UOA, that way we can see more data on this oil in normally aspirated form.
 
Yes, that would be great! Perhaps even more revealing would be some 10k mi runs on the Castrol, & some extended drains in turbo engines (preferrably someone else's 2.0L Saab turbo
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What happens when you put 5W-40 oil in your brand new SV or truck which requires 5W-30 oil (5W-20 for Ford and Honda)?
 
Userfriendly, that's not entirely true. It depends on the quality of lubricant. ie. I get better fuel economy with Havoline 5-40 than Delvac 1 5-40. Likewise, with Syntec 5-50 and 10-60 than with M-1 15-50.

Secondly, any decrease (which can be expected) will be temporary as the new thicker viscosity slowly cleans the garbage out left behind by the thin burnt oils. That's why a treatment with auto-rx would probably be a good idea.
 
Coefficient of friction and FM's also play a role so you could have a 40wt with more FM's and it could possibly give you better MPG then a 30wt. Just an opinion.
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I noticed when filling a rebuilt engine for the first time, say for example a 350 chev, the engine took 6 litres of engine oil.
After the cam run in, and break in oil changes, no matter how long the drain plug was left out, re-fills only took 4 1/2 litres of oil.
That would mean to "wet" the engine, 1 1/2 litres of oil are never recovered, stay in the engine, and cannot be drained out.
When and if the engine was switched over to another type of engine oil, it would be likely that the new oil would wash off the old.
Especially, but not restricted to changing over from a conventional to a synthetic motor oil.
One would then expect that in the case an engine operating on a conventional engine oil for several thousands of miles or several years, switching over to a synthetic would cause the washing and stripping of a lot of dirt and contaminated oil from every nook, cranny and pores of the engine.
Stripping of these contaminats could plug the oil filter, or at least expidite the next oil and/or filter change.
I would imagine that;
Adding a rinse or flush product in addition to a switch to a synthetic engine oil may not be necessary and done at the risk of plugging up the filter and suspending a very large amount of dirt in the oil in a very short time.
 
quote:

Adding a rinse or flush product in addition to a switch to a synthetic engine oil may not be necessary and done at the risk of plugging up the filter and suspending a very large amount of dirt in the oil in a very short time.

I agree, however Auto Rx slowly dissolves any sludge unlike other flushes such as gunk or Amsoil engine flush. Rx is an different animal.
 
Or a gallon of diesel fuel.....
Buster, you sure like to tease those Amsoil guys.
Got your flame suit on??

[ November 13, 2003, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: userfriendly ]
 
quote:

I'd advise Buster not to give up his day job just yet ...

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A little fun now and then never hurts anyone. Seriously though, I don't intentionally try to "tease" anyone. What I said about the Amsoil Engine flush is true. I stick up for Amsoil all the time. I think it's great oil but some of there products and claims are a bit funny. Geez, one day I'm considered a Amsoil salesman, the next I'm anti-amsoil.
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Being objective and critcizing all brands and types is a good think IMO. That Mobil 1 5w-30 is junk. Can't even meet the A3 spec.
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In order for this site to be effective, you have to have zero biases. Being I don't sell a product, I feel I can try and be as objective as I can. I use Amsoil and really like it, but like anything else, if I see something I dont like, I'll call it and criticize it.
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[ November 13, 2003, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Buster,

I'm not sure what you do for a living, but I wouldn't presume to come in off the street and pretend I knew how to do your job. I hope that puts things into perspective ...
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Ted K.
Dixie Synthetics
 
TS, I work in the finance indusrty (and hate it BTW) but what I say on here is just an opinion. I'll be the first to claim I am not an engineer or tribologist and know very little about lubrication. However, if I say S2k is overpriced or that Amsoil doesn't seem to be "cutting edge" anymore from the reading I've done on here, I'm going to say it. How can this website be truly beneficial if we can't state things that are controversial? I'm assumming you were offended by my remarks? I do say things that are not always grounded in fact, but 99% of what is said on BITOG isn't either so I'm safe.
 
Buster,

Probably not a good idea to drink JD and post on the same night ...
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I take it all back ...

Ted
 
buster, I like your posts, and I find myself agreeing with a lot that you say. And people have to be able to say controversial things on this Forum, otherwise we will not get anywhere.

Like you, I think that Amsoil is good motor oil, but I have a few concerns. One concern is the lack of API certification on most Amsoil oils. I also think that 25,000 and 35,000 mile oil change claims are silly. Why would anybody even attempt such stuff-15,000 or one year oil changes would probably justify the cost of the product. Amsoil certainly has proved itself in VOAs and UOAs at this site, unlike some other synthetic oils. I also have nothing but scorn for four ball tests and Falex tests.

I think that you have some of the best posts at this site.
 
quote:

buster, I like your posts, and I find myself agreeing with a lot that you say. And people have to be able to say controversial things on this Forum, otherwise we will not get anywhere.

Thanks Mystic, I appreciate it. I enjoy yours as well. I get a bit carried away at times but no harm is intended. I try and stay as unbiased as I can, which isn't always that good, but it's the best I can do. TS is very knowledgable and does a good job.
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Mystic,

I think you and Buster need to get a room ...
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It's getting steamy in here
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I'd agree you don't have to run 25,000 mile change intervals to make Amsoil cost effective. I actually have run a number drain intervals of greater than 20k miles, but I think that 15k/1 year is a better way to go, based on my own testing and experience ....

Any Snow out there yet? I'm headed for Steamboat in late January ....


TS
 
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