Mobil 1 EP vs Castrol (gold) EP

kschachn said:
And it’s not really about flow, it’s about cranking and pumpability. The only flow that’s significant is the flow in the immediate vicinity of the pickup tube and that’s where what Overkill notes becomes paramount. As long as the oil can be pumped it will flow.
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At -50°F any person will have bigger worries than trying to start a vehicle.
 
Rod Knock said:
PAO is never a benefit, other than cold flow. It always needs helpers to work properly in a fully formulated lubricant.


Why does it matter to you? What advantages to you expect to gain from group IV other than better cold flow at some stupid low temperatures, like -40C?
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What about oxidation resistance and extended drain intervals.
 
Rod Knock said:
That depends on the oil formulation, not on PAO alone.
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Well yeah, we should all know by now that no base stands on it's own. If I'm looking for oxidation resistance or long drain capability I think the group IV in general would work better than say a GTL.
 
Nesterenko said:
Well yeah, we should all know by now that no base stands on it's own. If I'm looking for oxidation resistance or long drain capability I think the group IV in general would work better than say a GTL.
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Again, lubricant formulation as a whole is more important than any single base oil. You can have long drain interval oils with excellent oxidation resistance that use predominantly Group III base oil. For example Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 will have better TBN retention than RedLine Oil 0W-20, even though the first one is predominantly Group III, while the former is a PAO + Ester blend. It's not what an oil is, it's what an oil does.
 
Rod Knock said:
Again, lubricant formulation as a whole is more important than any single base oil. You can have long drain interval oils with excellent oxidation resistance that use predominantly Group III base oil. For example Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 will have better TBN retention than RedLine Oil 0W-20, even though the first one is predominantly Group III, while the former is a PAO + Ester blend. It's not what an oil is, it's what an oil does.
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Grasshopper taps out, ok teacher? Going in circles. Unbelievable...
 
Nesterenko said:
Grasshopper taps out, ok teacher? Going in circles. Unbelievable...
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It's okay, that's where I started. Then I wasted some time hunting lubes with PAO in them by glazing at MSDS documents. The conclusion I came away with is that I should just look at the overall product and what it does and not worry about anything else because I might fry a few neurons if I think too hard about it. Oh, FWIW, I do like to experiment. 😁
 
pbm said:
Some of us ask questions like the OP's because we're curious about others opinions....if it bothers you don't reply....you often come across as a curmudgeon.
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:LOL:

I agree. Like a saying from Al Anon... Live and let live.
 
I think I will keep this oil over the winter and send sample to blackstone ...should I ..?
 
RaymondP said:
Been doing my oil changes since my teens, first on my motorcycles, then on my own and now family cars. Originally stumbled on this forum to seek clarification on the "best" oil for my new and most expensive vehicle we have owned - a Mercedes GLC 300 SUV (2021). Have to admit to becoming more and more confused as I try to educate myself on the many engine oil options. My goal is longevity, as I keep my cars until they become inoperative, unsafe or unreliable.

I thought I understood one basic thing....in the cold (Michigan) winters I should use 0W oil to maximize the low temp flow. Seems even this rule may be out the window for some?? I also asked the dealership service tech what oil they used when they service my car. Did NOT want to compromise warranty. They advised they use exactly the same M1 for all the vehicles they service. Mercedes specifies M1 ESP oil at a number of different weights. Their "same" oil was NOT ESP, even though they are a Mercedes dealership. What gives? I am getting more and more lost, drowning in the debates and the multiple abbreviations of oil types.....Group 3 or 4, POA, additive packages, JASO 1 & 2, and much more! Just asking those with the knowledge - please keep it simple. There must be some science to this. I know there is. While I appreciate all are well intentioned, let's keep emotional attachments/agenda out of this.

I have used Blackstone to analyze my used oil on previous vehicles and pleased to report always remained in spec. with no pending catastrophes. So yes, I have play with serious interest in this field. Please rationally critique my options and as available share alternatives.

Mercedes GLC 300 4MATIC (2021) Mobil1 ESP 0W30 - 4-cylinder turbo

BMW 328i manual Trans N20 (2016 F30) - 4-cylinder turbo. Originally either Valvoline 5W40, Castrol Edge 5W40 and moving to M1 0W40 Euro most recently. 5W spec was recommended.

Triumph Thruxton (2013) Air-cooled twin with wet clutch (shared oil) Mobil 1 15W50. NOT JASO spec as required??? Riding only above 45F. Mostly summer when temps. occasionally reach 90s plus.

Previously always used M1 0w40 but had read formula had changed. Had been a good experience on my 2006 Merc E350 4MATIC car and 2003 Porche Boxster S. (986). Both now sold. Still missing my Boxster!
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I like the 5w40 for the N20. Buying Ravenol VST from Blauparts, 2 gallons per order. Also live in Michigan with N20. I drive highway 90%. IMO, condensation is hardest in Winter on our engines and the oils.
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
How much better are we talking? I'm asking specifically with motorcycle engines in mind. Many motorcycle oils advertise use of esters, and charge accordingly. There are cheaper synthetic motorcycle oils that forgo esters, but I'm wondering if it's worth it to pay the extra since in my case, whole the engine is small and liquid cooled, I'm running at sustained high RPM near redline quite often.
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My experience with Ester in air cooled motors showed me the proof needed to stay with them (Redline) for that application.
Ran cooler, better MPG, overall a perfect application for Ester.

Had a dealer drop in 20w50 bulk Dino when I asked for full syn. Driving back, the heat was higher and parasitic drag was noticeable enough that I called when home to claim I had wrong oil installed.

Turns out they did own up to this. Total profit taking...so I have always been careful to call out what oil I have requested if a 3rd party is managing the change.
 
PWMDMD said:
If -35F was ever a remote possibility where I live I'd have some type of block heater but -50F? That is unfathomably cold to me.
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Many if not most cooling systems would be froze at -50F if it were not properly set up for that temperature. You would need a 70/30 coolant blend at that temp if
no heater was involved.
 
Big_kahuna said:
I think I will keep this oil over the winter and send sample to blackstone ...should I ..?
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At the end of the OCI please do a complete Blackstone UOA with TAN & TBN and post it in the Used Oil Analysis section of the forum. Thank you.
 
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