04 Toyota Tacoma w/ V6 been using Mobil 1 ever since the first oil change at 3K miles... Will switching back to dino hurt at all? Would there be any advantages besides the cost? I've been changing at 5K intervals using Purolator Pure One filters... The truck is mostly driven around town about 20-30 mi a day, and a few long trips each month... should I stay with the Mobil 1 with the short in town trips??
Mobil 1 5w30 to Havoline 5w30?
- Thread starter MysticGold04
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Both oils are GF4, and thus cannot have a lot of overadditization and still meet GF4 specs. That's why Mobil's 15K oil (or european ACEA long drain oils) does not meet GF4.
So, a reasonable guess would be that the any differnces in addpacks do not matter in this choice.
Thus it is a qusetion of base oil differences. The PAO-based (guess) Mobil might be better at really really cold startups (flow) and might be a bit more resistant to oxidation.
However, you will probably never ever approach these limits (think Alaska in winter or turbo charged engines with hot spots).
Use a good major brand conventional oil (GF4 is a darn good spec if blended properly); Havoline is good (!) At 5K interval you will be very protected.
So, a reasonable guess would be that the any differnces in addpacks do not matter in this choice.
Thus it is a qusetion of base oil differences. The PAO-based (guess) Mobil might be better at really really cold startups (flow) and might be a bit more resistant to oxidation.
However, you will probably never ever approach these limits (think Alaska in winter or turbo charged engines with hot spots).
Use a good major brand conventional oil (GF4 is a darn good spec if blended properly); Havoline is good (!) At 5K interval you will be very protected.
Wouldn't hurt either way. The only advantage I can see to switching is cost. If you watch for sales and rebates you can sometimes get mobil 1 for a great price. When That happens stock up. The only reason I am leaning you towards stickking with M1 is when you are out of the warranty period.. or comfortable with the idea it will be no hassle to extend your OCI's with the M1 EP.
If you go to Havoline it should also be a very good oil for you.
On another note, If You plan on keeping the truck forever stay M1 if you rotate you plan on one day trading it in or selling it when it has plenty of life in it go with the Havoline, get good protection from it and keep more money in your pocket.
If you go to Havoline it should also be a very good oil for you.
On another note, If You plan on keeping the truck forever stay M1 if you rotate you plan on one day trading it in or selling it when it has plenty of life in it go with the Havoline, get good protection from it and keep more money in your pocket.
Hi,
If your changing every 5k and with your outfit and driving 20-30 miles a day, I'd be running the Havoline.
Your truck will run for a very long time with a good dino oil and 5k ocis.
I ran Mobil 1 for a few OCIs with my Silverado truck and went back to Pennzoil and everything is just fine. And the UOAs show my engine likes Pennzoil better than Mobil 1..
I know my Pocketbook does too!
Take care, Bill
If your changing every 5k and with your outfit and driving 20-30 miles a day, I'd be running the Havoline.
Your truck will run for a very long time with a good dino oil and 5k ocis.
I ran Mobil 1 for a few OCIs with my Silverado truck and went back to Pennzoil and everything is just fine. And the UOAs show my engine likes Pennzoil better than Mobil 1..
I know my Pocketbook does too!
Take care, Bill
Will it be okay to change even though I've been running Mobil 1 since 3k miles and now the truck has 22k on it?! -- Oviously I'm gonna have to find some GF-4 before it's all gone... what do I need to look for on the bottle? Thanks!!!
The oil choice makes no difference in the engine's metalurgy. Changing oil types will not bring down the wrath of the gods upon your house and all you own. What to look for? What part of "GF-4" can't you read?
Correct, just look on the label front and rear.
I've used Havoline sucessfully for the last 35 years and I'm a big fan. I'm also an advocate of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Meaning if you can afford it, I'd stay with what's working and what you're happy with. I rarely change brands midstream, but that's just me.
That can't be right, the OLM uses a maximum mileage of 12500 miles. Thus, you must have unknowingly and accidentally reset the OLM sometime after you did your oil change since your current setup is indicating for an oil change at 16000 miles.quote:
Originally posted by Mulaka:
Speaking of Mobil 1...I use M1 EP 5w-30 in my '05 Grand Prix. Well, I currently have 6,880 miles on my OCI, and my OLM says I have 58% life left. Looks like the 15,000 OCI should be easily achievable in my ride.
Michael
What, please pray tel advise me is a long drain oil?
Are you telling me a GF4 oil can not be a long drain oil?
So GF-4,3 etc is stated in the spec on the label, correct?
quote:
Originally posted by Michael Wan:
That can't be right, the OLM uses a maximum mileage of 12500 miles. Thus, you must have unknowingly and accidentally reset the OLM sometime after you did your oil change since your current setup is indicating for an oil change at 16000 miles.quote:
Originally posted by Mulaka:
Speaking of Mobil 1...I use M1 EP 5w-30 in my '05 Grand Prix. Well, I currently have 6,880 miles on my OCI, and my OLM says I have 58% life left. Looks like the 15,000 OCI should be easily achievable in my ride.
Michael
Nope, I didn't reset it...it's accurate.quote:
Originally posted by Michael Wan:
That can't be right, the OLM uses a maximum mileage of 12500 miles. Thus, you must have unknowingly and accidentally reset the OLM sometime after you did your oil change since your current setup is indicating for an oil change at 16000 miles.quote:
Originally posted by Mulaka:
Speaking of Mobil 1...I use M1 EP 5w-30 in my '05 Grand Prix. Well, I currently have 6,880 miles on my OCI, and my OLM says I have 58% life left. Looks like the 15,000 OCI should be easily achievable in my ride.
Michael
That is assuming that the Oil Life curve is linear throughout the OCI, it is entirely possible that the curve is actually one slope for the first 50% (40%, 60%, 70%) of the Oil life and then is on a steeper or progressively increasing slope for the last X% of the Ol, and that the OLM accounts for this.
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