Mobil 1 0w-40

What's the manual recommendation in USA? I believe 0w20? Any mpg hit with the thicker oil?
I also use M1 0w40 in the 2 Nissan VQ 3.5L
I really have not checked mileage. My wife now works from home, so it's driven little. Driveability wise, no difference.
 
What's the manual recommendation in USA? I believe 0w20? Any mpg hit with the thicker oil?
I also use M1 0w40 in the 2 Nissan VQ 3.5L
There will be a hit to MPG, but not enough to worry about unless you are worried about several tenths of a mpg for each grade you go up.
 
There will be a hit to MPG, but not enough to worry about unless you are worried about several tenths of a mpg for each grade you go up.
Not that I'm loosing sleep over mpg hit, but it's NOT like several tenths of a 1 mpg. I'm on my first tank with a fresh M1 0w40 and I'm already reaching half tank with like 50 miles less than the case with PUP 5w30 (very thin 5w30).
I suspect I'll end with 22mpg vs 23.5mpg plus.. (I log evey tank and mileage to a T). I'll certainly take it for a smoother idle and more engine protection. PUP also burns in my engine.
 
I’ve been using mobile 1 0w40 euro for 3 to 4 years now and love the stuff. I love older vehicles that were well maintained so drive a 1990 Toyota 4x4 22r Reg cab winter vehicle and a 1994 Ford E150 5.8l van for the summer/ vacation vehicle. I would use my van for vacation only but think it’s to hard on them sitting all of the time. The van never sees road salt but after a good hard rain to clean off the roads I’ll drive it some In the winter. The Toyota 4x4 gets treated underneath with woolwax and the stuff works. Think of all the old yotas with rusted frames. Not mine and they throw that treatment/salt down everytime we get a chance of snow or sleet. I can’t stand rust so it drives me nuts. The wife’s cars 09 Pontiac vibe AKA Toyota Matrix (for sale) and 2015 Toyota Yaris usually get a 0w20 in the winter and a 0w30 in the summer. I’ve considered just putting the 0w40 in them too.
 
Not that I'm loosing sleep over mpg hit, but it's NOT like several tenths of a 1 mpg. I'm on my first tank with a fresh M1 0w40 and I'm already reaching half tank with like 50 miles less than the case with PUP 5w30 (very thin 5w30).
I suspect I'll end with 22mpg vs 23.5mpg plus.. (I log evey tank and mileage to a T). I'll certainly take it for a smoother idle and more engine protection. PUP also burns in my engine.
I'm basing this on ample discussions about the mileage hit between 20 and 30 wt being almost inconsequential. There are also temperature swings, refueling errors, traffic and a host of other variables that may come into play when going for a clean comparison.

Theoretically, your estimations are very close to my estimations for MPG loss:

1.5 MPG going from a thick 20 your PU P5w30 likely was at end of its life up approximately two grades to a thin 40 would be about "several tenths per grade" right? :) There are so many variables, but I hope you get the friendly point I was making. Glad the M1 0w-40 is working out well for you, I just bought some for next OCI myself.
 
Several tenths MPG hit, like 1x 2.5/10 more MPG going from the 0w30 to the 0w20?

So in a vehicle that gets 30MPG hwy with a 18gal tank (manual says 0w20) = 540mi
With 0w30 you get 29.75MG hwy with 18gal tank = 535.5mi

That extra 4.5mi on a 30MPG vehicle = 0.15gal of fuel.
x say 1mil vehicles = 150,000 gal of fuel.

Across a fleet the -0.25mpg is significant amount of burned fuel.
 
Last time provided, it was 8.8%
Considering this in a unknown maintenance 3UZ-FE Lexus. Any issue with respect to SAPS and converter life? I figure from what I’ve seen this is a great oil to clean, is a lite 40wt and thinking impact to emissions is likely inconsequential. But wanted some reassurance. Thx
 
Considering this in a unknown maintenance 3UZ-FE Lexus. Any issue with respect to SAPS and converter life? I figure from what I’ve seen this is a great oil to clean, is a lite 40wt and thinking impact to emissions is likely inconsequential. But wanted some reassurance. Thx

No, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Many of the M bimmers drank oil and the high SAPS euro oils didn't seem to have any real impact on catalyst life.
 
Considering this in a unknown maintenance 3UZ-FE Lexus. Any issue with respect to SAPS and converter life? I figure from what I’ve seen this is a great oil to clean, is a lite 40wt and thinking impact to emissions is likely inconsequential. But wanted some reassurance. Thx
Only if it is DI without port injection I would be hesitant to use it.
Otherwise, it is as "greasy" package as it can get today.
 
Too much SAPS. M1 0W40 and 5W40 FS/FS X2 have extremely high SAPS levels. SAPS is one of the culprits behind intake valve deposits in DI engines (poorly designed PCV being the main culprit).
I don't worry about it much. A lot of it is down to the PCV design and whether or not your engine is burning a significant amount of oil vapor. M1 0w-40 may speed up the process but if you've got a badly designed intake/PCV system it's going to happen no matter what. Actually, even with a good design like my Gamma GDI carbon buildup is just the nature of the demon. Along with checking and replacing (if necessary) your PCV valve regularly just do a good induction cleaning with seafoam or CRC IVD cleaner or whatever cleaner spray you fancy every so often and then you won't have to worry about it.

NOACK is probably more important than saps, oil that doesn't evaporate and find it's way into the intake manifold can't carbon up the valves.

Same with the catalytic converter, if you're burning off the entire sump capacity every 3-5k then you're going to eventually ruin the catalyst, high saps or low saps. For a well designed engine that burns minimal to no oil it shouldn't be an issue at all.
 
Here's a bump.

I am running this oil in my 2006 330i with N52B30. Previously ran Castrol 0W40 until it wasn't sold in Canada anymore, so I went with the M1 0W40. Performance seems to be just fine. With the Castrol I was burning around 1qt every 2k miles, with the M1 perhaps 1qt every 2.5k miles.

However, I am starting to see some codes popping up in the DME. I had a Check engine light set a few weeks back, and am seeing the following codes intermittently:

- 29F4 and 29F5 Cat 1 and 2 below threshold
- 2C7F Lambda probe after catalytic converter 2 trim control (too lean)
- 2a2f mixture regulation 2 - Mixture too rich

Could this be a result of the higher SAPS (Sulfated Ash, Phosphorous, and Sulfur) in the oil? Or is it likely that my O2 Sensors are on their way out? Not sure if either of them has ever been replaced. I may change this oil out and run Motomaster OEPlus 5W30 which is rebranded shell oil, and LL04 approved.

What does the forum think?
 
Here's a bump.

I am running this oil in my 2006 330i with N52B30. Previously ran Castrol 0W40 until it wasn't sold in Canada anymore, so I went with the M1 0W40. Performance seems to be just fine. With the Castrol I was burning around 1qt every 2k miles, with the M1 perhaps 1qt every 2.5k miles.

However, I am starting to see some codes popping up in the DME. I had a Check engine light set a few weeks back, and am seeing the following codes intermittently:

- 29F4 and 29F5 Cat 1 and 2 below threshold
- 2C7F Lambda probe after catalytic converter 2 trim control (too lean)
- 2a2f mixture regulation 2 - Mixture too rich

Could this be a result of the higher SAPS (Sulfated Ash, Phosphorous, and Sulfur) in the oil? Or is it likely that my O2 Sensors are on their way out? Not sure if either of them has ever been replaced. I may change this oil out and run Motomaster OEPlus 5W30 which is rebranded shell oil, and LL04 approved.

What does the forum think?
Too lean and too rich? Sounds like the O2 sensors.
 
I was running 0w40 M1 for 80k miles or so on my 2L Gen Coupe turbo. Switched to M1 5w30 truck and suv for two changes just to see what it was like again, oil temp is higher which was one reason, but pressure was lower.. Now WM is selling 5w40 M1 so I'm going to try that. Fuel dilution is an issue with the turbo.
 
I was running 0w40 M1 for 80k miles or so on my 2L Gen Coupe turbo. Switched to M1 5w30 truck and suv for two changes just to see what it was like again, oil temp is higher which was one reason, but pressure was lower.. Now WM is selling 5w40 M1 so I'm going to try that. Fuel dilution is an issue with the turbo.
Fuel dilution is an issue bcs. direct injection not turbo.
 
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