M1 0W40 In 5W30 Rated Applications ?

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Just switched to 0w-40 in my VQ35...very early on but initial impression is it's a little quieter. Biggest factor for me was knowing the chains on the VQs are shear monsters. In my J35 that specs 0w-20 I am running 0w-30 for a little extra fuel dilution protection.
 
Just switched to 0w-40 in my VQ35...very early on but initial impression is it's a little quieter. Biggest factor for me was knowing the chains on the VQs are shear monsters. In my J35 that specs 0w-20 I am running 0w-30 for a little extra fuel dilution protection.
VQ's are not the quietest engines, and if are 'lucky' enough to drive a nissan manual transmission, you will be thankfully the engine isnt as loud as the trans. The nosiest 6MT I have ever driven.
 
I tried 0w40 in my Golf and Pathfinder. They call for 5w40 and 5w30 respectively, I didn't notice any difference at first, but the first time I started each engine on an extremely cold Ontario day (-25C), it rolled over like it was already warmed up. Huge difference in that aspect. So much so that my brother who has a 14 Jetta with the same motor asked me why mine starts so much easier in the winter, when he borrowed my car. And he is not a "car guy" whatsoever!
 
Been running 0w40 (M1 and PP Euro so far, about to try Castrol) in my 2010 civic Si that calls for 5w30 normally, but is rated for 40 weight in other markets. I drive the car very hard in a hot climate and wanted the added protection for such severe service. Aside from running with excellent UOAs so far, using that grade has also all but alleviated the cold start VTC rattle the car had when i first bought it which i can only assume is due to the fast cold start flow.
 
A 0w40 probably becomes a 5w30 in no time at all from shearing the VI's.

Run two tests. Run each for about 16km (10kmi), UOA them each, see where their final viscosity ends up.
 
A 0w40 probably becomes a 5w30 in no time at all from shearing the VI's.

Run two tests. Run each for about 16km (10kmi), UOA them each, see where their final viscosity ends up.
Current 0W-40 products have shown superior viscosity retention over the previous Mobil 1 0W-40.

Beyond that, if you're using Blackstone for a UOA they cannot tell the difference between fuel dilution and actual mechanical shear, any viscosity deviation they may point out is not something they can conclusively determine.
 
Current 0W-40 products have shown superior viscosity retention over the previous Mobil 1 0W-40.

Beyond that, if you're using Blackstone for a UOA they cannot tell the difference between fuel dilution and actual mechanical shear, any viscosity deviation they may point out is not something they can conclusively determine.

Exactly this. I remember sonofjoe speaking about this at some length. Also would be surprised to see any 0w-40 with a decent slug of PAO in the base oil blend slip a winter rating, perhaps 0w-40's in general, given they typically use a pretty light base oil blend.
 
Exactly this. I remember sonofjoe speaking about this at some length. Also would be surprised to see any 0w-40 with a decent slug of PAO in the base oil blend slip a winter rating, perhaps 0w-40's in general, given they typically use a pretty light base oil blend.
I assume Pennzoil is probably mostly GTL, and Mobil1 seems to be a blend of GTL with some PAO.
 
I assume Pennzoil is probably mostly GTL, and Mobil1 seems to be a blend of GTL with some PAO.

Yep, Castrol is like 50% PAO, Ravenol is majority, Valvoline is, IIRC, majority PAO...etc. Both PAO and GTL are excellent bases with very good cold temp characteristics, though PAO of course doesn't require the same level of dosing with PPD's. In either instance, I expect since the blend is light that they probably retain their winter rating even if they lose some of their KV100 due to fuel dilution or mechanical shear.
 
A couple of years ago my local WM had a clearance on Castrol 0W40 oil. I think it was a EURO made oil. I bought the last 5 qt. container they had on the clearance shelf. Anyway, I was thinking about trying some 0W40 in my trucks engine again.
Opinions, suggestions on which name brand?
Try not to torture me too much. ;)
 
I'm a user of the Castrol 0W-40 in a GM 2.4L DI Ecotec that calls for 5W-30, since about 36k miles. These engines consume oil and turn in lousy UOAs with fuel dilution taking down the viscosity, and are known for timing chain failures. The amount of Iron in the UOA directly tracks with fuel dilution in these engines.

At over 100k, timing chain is still quiet, and oil consumption has been steady since new. Even with significant 2% fuel dilution, viscosity stays above a cSt of 11.
 
Any more I pretty much use M1 0w-40 in just about every car (or engine) that isnt under warranty, regardless of what it calls for. Mazdas, Toyotas, Nissans, GM's ... anything really. Push mowers and riding mowers too. The only thing that doesnt get 0w-40 is my diesel Kubota.

Not a fanboy or anything like that, I do use other brands and viscosities when appropriate to keep warranties intact. But M1 0w-40 is cheap, readily available just about everywhere, and it seems to work well in just about anything I throw it in to. By "seems to work well" I mean nothing leaks, no weird noises, and nothing has blown up. Also makes it easy to use up oddball leftovers without having to be concerned about mixing different types/brands/viscosities or whatever. Been doing this for the last 10-12 years or so.
 
I've run 0W-40 in my 2017 Hyundai Elantra that calls for 5W-20 with 5W-30 being acceptable, my GM 3400 engine, as well as numerous Maximas which have all called for 5W-30. No problems in any of them.
 
I've run 0W-40 in my 2017 Hyundai Elantra that calls for 5W-20 with 5W-30 being acceptable, my GM 3400 engine, as well as numerous Maximas which have all called for 5W-30. No problems in any of them.
That's on the edge of cowboy, no? Won't the 40 be too thick at temp if the manual says to use 5w20 and 30 is "acceptable"?
 
How can the oil be too thick at temp if it thins with heat?
I never said it was too thick, but a 40 will be thicker than a 30 at temp, no? The maker of the engine perhaps says 40 is too thick by specifying use of a 20 with a 30 being "ok". Since 40 is not mentioned by the manual then perhaps they don't mention it for a reason?
 
That's on the edge of cowboy, no? Won't the 40 be too thick at temp if the manual says to use 5w20 and 30 is "acceptable"?

I never said it was too thick, but a 40 will be thicker than a 30 at temp, no? The maker of the engine perhaps says 40 is too thick by specifying use of a 20 with a 30 being "ok". Since 40 is not mentioned by the manual then perhaps they don't mention it for a reason?


Words have meaning.
 
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