Move to M1 FS 0W40 ?

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Sep 10, 2010
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Currently have been using M1 5W30 EP in my 2.0L Kia Seltos (non - turbo MPFI engine) and 2.4L Sonata (non - turbo GDI engine) . When I buy the above oil at WM , I always see the M1 FS 0W40 for about the same price and have been somewhat curious to try ? My OCI’s are average (5K miles max / 6 months) of mixed city / high way driving in temporate PNW temps. *I have no complaints with the current M1 5W30 EP but wonder if the M1 FS 0W40 beats it out for all the important specs that improve the life of an engine (wear , cleaning , performance , protection , etc. ) over the M1 5W30 EP oil ? Lastly , my vehicles don’t list a 0W40 being approved in the owners manual - while doubtful my engines will blow up running 0W40 , I have refrained from using any oil grades not listed in the OM (5W20 , 5W30) . Your experiences making the switch from 5W30 to the newer M1 0W40 oil with its even higher 13.2 cSt rating (probably higher HTHS as well) ?
 
I use it in my 2022 2.0 PFI Kia Soul with no issues. Not sure it's doing anything special and I'm not recommending you use it since it's not what is recommended by the manufacturer, but sure, it does what oil does and works fine.
 
Currently have been using M1 5W30 EP in my 2.0L Kia Seltos (non - turbo MPFI engine) and 2.4L Sonata (non - turbo GDI engine) . When I buy the above oil at WM , I always see the M1 FS 0W40 for about the same price and have been somewhat curious to try ? My OCI’s are average (5K miles max / 6 months) of mixed city / high way driving in temporate PNW temps. *I have no complaints with the current M1 5W30 EP but wonder if the M1 FS 0W40 beats it out for all the important specs that improve the life of an engine (wear , cleaning , performance , protection , etc. ) over the M1 5W30 EP oil ? Lastly , my vehicles don’t list a 0W40 being approved in the owners manual - while doubtful my engines will blow up running 0W40 , I have refrained from using any oil grades not listed in the OM (5W20 , 5W30) . Your experiences making the switch from 5W30 to the newer M1 0W40 oil with its even higher 13.2 cSt rating (probably higher HTHS as well) ?
M1 0W40 has European approvals BMW LL01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, VW 502.00. Those are most stringent approvals on the market.
HTHS will be min 3.5cP, as those approvals require min 3.5cP, and actual will be 3.6-3.7cP.
It is definitive upgrade over oils you used before, and theoretically you will take slight hit in mpg.
Engines will be fine.
 
whitnessed the neighbor start the lakehouse tahoe and throw it in drive within a matter of seconds and go to the floor towing his boat. M1 0w-40 is the only oil i trust to protect from that and i am a long time Valvoline fan. i use HPL products now but i wouldn’t trust anything other than a 0w-30/40 from them to protect from this abuse either.
 
M1 0W40 has European approvals BMW LL01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, VW 502.00. Those are most stringent approvals on the market.
HTHS will be min 3.5cP, as those approvals require min 3.5cP, and actual will be 3.6-3.7cP.
It is definitive upgrade over oils you used before, and theoretically you will take slight hit in mpg.
Engines will be fine.
I doubt anyone would notice a drop in mileage.
 
Also been thinking of switching to the M1, 0W40 in all my vehicles (2012 Tundra 5.7, 2020 Honda Pilot and 2022 Honda Accord Touring 2.0 Turbo). Currently using M1, 5WE30EP in all of them.
 
Try M1 EP 10W-30. I like it.

I still buy M1 0W-40 once in a while when on sale but I try to avoid oils with too much vm.
Recently bought last 2 jugs of M1 FS 0W-40 and M1 5W-40 (both have same Euro approvals iirc) left on sale at store. They were about $6 per jug cheaper than M1 EP 10W-30.
 
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Try M1 EP 10W-30 (Triple Action). I like it.
^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^^..... and you (Chris) failed to mention it's also acceptable by HyunKia Inc.
I've used it in the Kia and Hyundai and just like you, I also chose to experiment more and tried M-1 0w40. But the one I tried is the M-1 Euro 0w40. I got it at Walmart and it contains the SP Approval.

I found nothing wrong with the Mobil-1 EP T/A I was using and the Valvoline EP prior to that. I haven't a clue why I suddenly wanted to venture into Amsoil and HPL. Both are double the money and probably unnecessary.

I fell down and hit my head last year and don't remember the wife reaching for a big band-aid and there I was yelling from the mountaintop that I needed to get off the Mobil-1 and Valvoline - get on the real expensive stuff and call an Urgent One Center for a couple stitches.
 
M1 0W40 has European approvals BMW LL01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, VW 502.00. Those are most stringent approvals on the market.
HTHS will be min 3.5cP, as those approvals require min 3.5cP, and actual will be 3.6-3.7cP.
It is definitive upgrade over oils you used before, and theoretically you will take slight hit in mpg.
Engines will be fine.
It appears US oils favor MPG increases than Euro oils whereas Euro oils are beefed up in a number of other critical performance areas than SP / GM spec rated oils here in the US .
 
Also been thinking of switching to the M1, 0W40 in all my vehicles (2012 Tundra 5.7, 2020 Honda Pilot and 2022 Honda Accord Touring 2.0 Turbo). Currently using M1, 5WE30EP in all of them.
Could be that M1 0W40 FS is the best price / versus performance oil on WM shelves (always under $30 per jug nearby) . When it’s only $1 or $2 more per jug than M1 5W30 EP with all of those stringent Euro approvals - it’s more than a thin / thick debate .
 
^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^^..... and you (Chris) failed to mention it's also acceptable by HyunKia Inc.
I've used it in the Kia and Hyundai and just like you, I also chose to experiment more and tried M-1 0w40. But the one I tried is the M-1 Euro 0w40. I got it at Walmart and it contains the SP Approval.

I found nothing wrong with the Mobil-1 EP T/A I was using and the Valvoline EP prior to that. I haven't a clue why I suddenly wanted to venture into Amsoil and HPL. Both are double the money and probably unnecessary.

I fell down and hit my head last year and don't remember the wife reaching for a big band-aid and there I was yelling from the mountaintop that I needed to get off the Mobil-1 and Valvoline - get on the real expensive stuff and call an Urgent One Center for a couple stitches.
Great reply and right you are regarding the 10W30 being Hyundai / Kia approved . Yes , the M1 0W40 FS at WM is SP rated as you mentioned playing well with US sulphur content gasolines .
 
Could be that M1 0W40 FS is the best price / versus performance oil on WM shelves (always under $30 per jug nearby) . When it’s only $1 or $2 more per jug than M1 5W30 EP with all of those stringent Euro approvals - it’s more than a thin / thick debate .
I think so. Mobil 1 0w40 FS is a great all around, easily attainable oil.
 
I think so. Mobil 1 0w40 FS is a great all around, easily attainable oil.
Now that you guys are starting to see ESP 5w30 at Walmart and at the same price (or close) as M1 0w40, I think that ESP is actually the better option for most. Lower SAPS, more shear stable, has the same HTHS and would likely have a higher HTHS than 0w40 after a few thousand miles too. I also am assuming that ESP 5w30 has less VII as well. But then again I have never really been a big fan of M1 0w40 after running it in my ex wife’s BMW for a few intervals and seeing how much it thinned out. Long time users of this forum will know that one of my biggest concerns with an oil is that it needs to retain it’s viscosity over the course of a decently long interval. It’s one of the big reasons why I loved the original GC 0w30 so much! It would barely change viscosity even after 8 or 9000 miles.
 
Now that you guys are starting to see ESP 5w30 at Walmart and at the same price (or close) as M1 0w40, I think that ESP is actually the better option for most. Lower SAPS, more shear stable, has the same HTHS and would likely have a higher HTHS than 0w40 after a few thousand miles too. I also am assuming that ESP 5w30 has less VII as well. But then again I have never really been a big fan of M1 0w40 after running it in my ex wife’s BMW for a few intervals and seeing how much it thinned out. Long time users of this forum will know that one of my biggest concerns with an oil is that it needs to retain it’s viscosity over the course of a decently long interval. It’s one of the big reasons why I loved the original GC 0w30 so much! It would barely change viscosity even after 8 or 9000 miles.
Good points plus it’s still a 30 weight oil . Based on the key points you mentioned it would appear to be an excellent oil for the US market probably surpassing the M1 5W30 EP I’ve been using in most performance areas except long drain - which I don’t care about any way .
 
Good points plus it’s still a 30 weight oil . Based on the key points you mentioned it would appear to be an excellent oil for the US market probably surpassing the M1 5W30 EP I’ve been using in most performance areas except long drain - which I don’t care about any way .
The longest interval that I ran ESP 5w30 in the Vette was 7400 miles and the UOA looked good, so I feel safe running it up to that point. My oil life monitor was at 2% on that run so it’s nice to know that I can safely follow my OLM when using ESP 😎
 
Now that you guys are starting to see ESP 5w30 at Walmart and at the same price (or close) as M1 0w40, I think that ESP is actually the better option for most. Lower SAPS, more shear stable, has the same HTHS and would likely have a higher HTHS than 0w40 after a few thousand miles too. I also am assuming that ESP 5w30 has less VII as well. But then again I have never really been a big fan of M1 0w40 after running it in my ex wife’s BMW for a few intervals and seeing how much it thinned out. Long time users of this forum will know that one of my biggest concerns with an oil is that it needs to retain it’s viscosity over the course of a decently long interval. It’s one of the big reasons why I loved the original GC 0w30 so much! It would barely change viscosity even after 8 or 9000 miles.
Did you know the cause of the thinning? Was it fuel dilution or actual mechanical shear of the VM? Fuel dilution isn't necessarily a constant nor consistent problem depending on the weather and driving habits.

Lately it's been shown that M1 0W-40 is very shear stable, as you've probably seen in that other thread.
 
Good points plus it’s still a 30 weight oil . Based on the key points you mentioned it would appear to be an excellent oil for the US market probably surpassing the M1 5W30 EP I’ve been using in most performance areas except long drain - which I don’t care about any way .
Grade is pretty irrelevant given the minimum HT/HS, which is much more representative of the properties than grade.
 
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