M1 0W40 In 5W30 Rated Applications ?

[OVERKILL]

I never said it was too thick, but a 40 will be thicker than a 30 at temp, no? The maker of the engine perhaps says 40 is too thick by specifying use of a 20 with a 30 being "ok". Since 40 is not mentioned by the manual then perhaps they don't mention it for a reason?

Dude, you literally stated:

Won't the 40 be too thick

The fact it was a question doesn't change the fact that it was a proposition of possibility to which I answered.

A xW-40 will be slightly heavier at temp than an xW-30, but both will be massively thinner than they were at startup. The maker will have determined the minimum level of viscosity necessary to keep parts separated and things together until well beyond the warranty period in testing and have made that the spec. This allows them to get the best possible CAFE credit, which is one of the main drivers towards thinner and thinner oils as even a small fraction of a MPG gain over millions of vehicles is extremely significant.

 

[PimTac]

The diff is in the English though. I did not make the statement as a point fact, I asked a question, even used the "?" mark too.

Huh?

 

[53' Stude]

How many trolling user names have you had?

Is trolling Bitog your only source of meaning in life?

I did not make the statement as a point fact, I asked a question, even used the "?" mark too.

Some folks you will and cannot reach. Feels like a Monday all over

 

[350Rocket]

Any more I pretty much use M1 0w-40 in just about every car (or engine) that isnt under warranty, regardless of what it calls for. Mazdas, Toyotas, Nissans, GM's ... anything really. Push mowers and riding mowers too. The only thing that doesnt get 0w-40 is my diesel Kubota.

Not a fanboy or anything like that, I do use other brands and viscosities when appropriate to keep warranties intact. But M1 0w-40 is cheap, readily available just about everywhere, and it seems to work well in just about anything I throw it in to. By "seems to work well" I mean nothing leaks, no weird noises, and nothing has blown up. Also makes it easy to use up oddball leftovers without having to be concerned about mixing different types/brands/viscosities or whatever. Been doing this for the last 10-12 years or so.

I buy it because of that and I've decided to switch my truck to it as well so all my vehicles and lawnmower will be using the same thing.

I bought the 5L jug for $28.99 Canadian last week (already had some in my stash bought at $30.99). Compared to the deals I'm going to attach pictures of (Canadian tire flyer) it is a steal.

Right now the major sale is on Castrol but they never have the 0w40, so if you want the sale price it's 5w30 or 5w20.

I also attached partsource flyer(owned by Canadian tire). Out of all the choices I feel that m1 0w40 fs is the best value for the vehicles I run it in.

 

[walterjay]

Just bought a jug of M1 0-40 and feeling good. Going to use it in my water cooled 25hp Kawasaki garden tractor engine. Good stuff. I can't believe how much better my 2006 F-150 turns over in the winter with this stuff. That engine is specd for 5-20

 

[kschachn]

Just bought a jug of M1 0-40 and feeling good. Going to use it in my water cooled 25hp Kawasaki garden tractor engine. Good stuff. I can't believe how much better my 2006 F-150 turns over in the winter with this stuff. That engine is specd for 5-20

It must get pretty cold for a 0W-40 to be thinner than a 5W-20. -30F or below?

 

[OilUzer]

@dblshock said in the other thread:
"0/40 is the new 5/30".

Everyone is becoming thickie. That's a good news. Proceed with caution .⚠

 

[blufeb95]

@dblshock said in the other thread:
"0/40 is the new 5/30".

Everyone is becoming thickie. That's a good news. Proceed with caution .⚠

Eh, I don't really even consider 0w40 to be going up a grade where 5w30 is spec, M1 FS 0w40 starts just a hair over being a 30 and quickly shears back to being a thick 30. I'm not a fan of encouraging people to pour 10w40, 15w40, or 20w50 in cars that spec'd 5w30 unless it's got seal leaks that are uneconomical to repair or it's burning a ton of oil and tossing some molasses in it curtails the consumption by a lot.

 

[2EHA]

Euro 0W40 is a high performance oil and enthusiasts like high performance things, it’s a step above the average in-grade 30. Before the 0W40 price cuts T6 used to be the poor man’s performance synthetic and now nobody buys that overpriced stuff

 

[aquariuscsm]

T6 used to be the poor man’s performance synthetic and now nobody buys that overpriced stuff

I totally forgot about that stuff!! Back in the day it was the bees knees!!

 

[mahanddeem]

Realistically, is there a difference in reality between M1 0w40 vs Castro 0w40? Specs are 12.9 vs 13.7 at 100c
Will these serve my VQ well in teens F winter?

 

[blufeb95]

Realistically, is there a difference in reality between M1 0w40 vs Castro 0w40? Specs are 12.9 vs 13.7 at 100c
Will these serve my VQ well in teens F winter?

I doubt either would make a difference unless you live in the sub arctic.

 

[edyvw]

Current 0W-40 products have shown superior viscosity retention over the previous Mobil 1 0W-40.

Beyond that, if you're using Blackstone for a UOA they cannot tell the difference between fuel dilution and actual mechanical shear, any viscosity deviation they may point out is not something they can conclusively determine.

Actually Mobil1 0W40 is extremely shear resistant.

 

[Jimmy_Russels]

Actually Mobil1 0W40 is extremely shear resistant.

Holy Wombat. Says who the M1 0W40 is "extremely shear resistant"? Have some data to back that up?

 

[OVERKILL]

Holy Wombat. Says who the M1 0W40 is "extremely shear resistant"? Have some data to back that up?

You could probably figure it out yourself by looking at some of the UOA's and figuring out how to discern the difference between viscosity loss due to fuel dilution vs that via mechanical shear.

 

[OilUzer]

How do 0W40 (or high vm) oils perform as far as deposits? that's a very long term effect that for example no uoa would be able to show.

I've read threads and discussions that high mounts of vii is not a major issue and they are shear stable ... but does more vii (plastic?) lead to more deposits?

I'm just curious because I always select narrow spread oils. e.g. 10W30 over 5W30 as long as it meets the winter spec. I know 0W oils for example have a good base oil but require higher amounts of vii.

 

[OVERKILL]

How do 0W40 (or high vm) oils perform as far as deposits? that's a very long term effect that for example no uoa would be able to show.

I've read threads and discussions that high mounts of vii is not a major issue and they are shear stable ... but does more vii (plastic?) lead to more deposits?

I'm just curious because I always select narrow spread oils. e.g. 10W30 over 5W30 as long as it meets the winter spec. I know 0W oils for example have a good base oil but require higher amounts of vii.

This is tested for in the standards the oils meet. The long drain Euro oils, like Euro 0w-40's, have to meet extremely demanding deposit and varnish control specs as part of the OEM approvals.

 

[OilUzer]

This is tested for in the standards the oils meet. The long drain Euro oils, like Euro 0w-40's, have to meet extremely demanding deposit and varnish control specs as part of the OEM approvals.

Today at wm M1 0W40 Euro (a3/b4 MB stuff) was $22.xx for 5 qt. and the regular M1 EP 10W30 (jug says 15K miles) was $2 more.
I use M1 EP 10W30 in one car. Don't mind moving up to 40.

Curious why the non-Euro EP without any bells & whistles is more expensive. Do you know why? Marketing or does EP (15K) has more polyalphaolefin? ❄

 

[blufeb95]

Today at wm M1 0W40 Euro (a3/b4 MB stuff) was $22.xx for 5 qt. and the regular M1 EP 10W30 (jug says 15K miles) was $2 more.
I use M1 EP 10W30 in one car. Don't mind moving up to 40.

Curious why the non-Euro EP without any bells & whistles is more expensive. Do you know why? Marketing or does EP (15K) has more polyalphaolefin? ❄

Looking at the sds, it doesn't appear 10W30 EP has much of any PAO in it, not sure why 0w40 is less expensive than the EP formula, maybe the Euro oil market is much more price competitive pretty much any 0w40 Eurocar oil you get is gonna be a very good oil, price is probably one of the biggest deciding factors, most people that own European cars just have someone change their oil, the people that do it themselves are either looking for the best and they'll buy an expensive boutique oil or they're cheap and they'll buy the cheapest euro car oil they can find so pricing M1 0w40 at the price of Vanilla Mobil1 is probably advantageous.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I have a well maintained 2007 Kia Sedona 3.8L V-6 with 260,000 miles on it . I generally rotate around on sale 5W30 D1/G2 rated 5W30 synthetic oils at 5K ~ 6K mile / 6 month OCI's with a Fram Ultra filter. I was curious if there is any benefit to stepping up to M1 0W40 ? The Kia burns no oil and has no leaks on 5W30 synthetic now ... Your thoughts ?

You can't go wrong with the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It cleans really well and your engine will be very happy with it. My advice, if you're stepping up to it, stick with it. As for advantages, it has a boatload of detergents and dispersants and anti-wear additives. The only other oil that's a tad better if you have a GDI or TGDI engine is Castrol EDGE 0W-40. For your application, Mobil 1 0W-40 is the right choice. You will get even more life out of your motor.

A couple of years ago my local WM had a clearance on Castrol 0W40 oil. I think it was a EURO made oil. I bought the last 5 qt. container they had on the clearance shelf. Anyway, I was thinking about trying some 0W40 in my trucks engine again.
Opinions, suggestions on which name brand?
Try not to torture me too much.

Castrol EDGE 0W-40 at Walmart is still made in Europe (Belgium), and it's still an excellent motor oil. I just switched our 2017 SF to it, along with half a quart of Lubegard Bio/Tech. She purrs like a kitten.

Looking at the sds, it doesn't appear 10W30 EP has much of any PAO in it, not sure why 0w40 is less expensive than the EP formula, maybe the Euro oil market is much more price competitive pretty much any 0w40 Eurocar oil you get is gonna be a very good oil, price is probably one of the biggest deciding factors, most people that own European cars just have someone change their oil, the people that do it themselves are either looking for the best and they'll buy an expensive boutique oil or they're cheap and they'll buy the cheapest euro car oil they can find so pricing M1 0w40 at the price of Vanilla Mobil1 is probably advantageous.

I believe that the Euro oils at Walmart and other places are in the $22 per 5-quart jug price range for two reasons:

1. To be price competitive and get sales. I believe that Mobil and Castrol are aware that even people who don't drive a European vehicle will still buy the oil because of its excellent qualities.
2. The low price is subsidized by the people who buy one of the "holy trinity motor oils" at a premium price (0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30). I mean it costs a lot less to make a gallon of Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30 than a gallon of EDGE 0W-40. Add to that the fact that 0W-40 is imported from Belgium, so shipping ain't cheap. And you get all that for $22.38 at Waly World!!! Life is good!

It must get pretty cold for a 0W-40 to be thinner than a 5W-20. -30F or below?

It depends on the 5W-20. Some are really crappy and some will flow better than a 0W-40 at cold temperatures. Just to throw a wildcard in there, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 will flow a heck of a lot better than FS 0W-40 when cold. Castrol EDGE and EDGE EP 0W-20 and 5W-20 for example are nothing to write home about, just a waste of money.

Eh, I don't really even consider 0w40 to be going up a grade where 5w30 is spec, M1 FS 0w40 starts just a hair over being a 30 and quickly shears back to being a thick 30. I'm not a fan of encouraging people to pour 10w40, 15w40, or 20w50 in cars that spec'd 5w30 unless it's got seal leaks that are uneconomical to repair or it's burning a ton of oil and tossing some molasses in it curtails the consumption by a lot.

The startup rattle in our 2017 gave me plenty of headaches. I thought it was a timing chain tensioner, but it's actually CVVT related. I was considering trying 10W-40, but when I saw the specs, I backed off. 0W-40 is where I draw the line, and even there, I wouldn't go with something like Red Line 0W-40 because that's pretty thick for a 0W-40. It's more like something between 5W-40 and 10W-40. I guess, thank God that the spread is huge when it comes to xW-40 oils, otherwise Red Line might have to re-label a few of their motor oils. Speaking of 20W-50, about 16 years ago I tried it in a Mitsubishi Galant with a 2.4L engine. I also added a quart of Lucas to it. Amazingly, the engine ran just fine and it didn't grenade itself. I couldn't believe it. That car was a junker though.