M1 0w-20 EP or a better value 0w-20?

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We have two of the newer generation Hondas with 1.5t engines in the household and despite the wife's 2023 CRV being driven only 5k a year she does not have any oil dilution and neither does my 17k a year 2022 Civic (I get the same 3.75qt out as I put in for both cars). I have been doing 5k intervals but recently decided to move to 3k after watching a few videos from Engineering Explained, Car Care Nut, and a few other. For her car it'll be good since I will basically change it every 6 months, and for my car I like the idea of running cleaner oil through the turbo and its associated systems to minimize potential for any contaminants to hang around long term. Filters on both cars are PLM-A02 changed at every interval.

Any reason to use Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum instead of M1 EP for our use case? Currently getting the M1 EP for under $5 a quart but would consider something else in this price range if its notably better. Not interested in spending big bucks on Amsoil or HPL etc. I went back and forth on whether to move to 5w-30 but seeing as neither of our cars has issues with 0w-20 I decided to stick with specced
 
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Our cars don't suffer from Dilution with 5k interval so at 3k should be even less of a concern. If I start draining more oil out than I put in, I will consider 30
 
Any reason to use Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum instead of M1 EP for our use case? Currently getting the M1 EP for under $5 a quart but would consider something else in this price range if its notably better. Not interested in spending big bucks on Amsoil or HPL etc. I went back and forth on whether to move to 5w-30 but seeing as neither of our cars has issues with 0w-20 I decided to stick with specced
No.
 
Can't see any real brand difference in oils that meet specs and don't understand dropping expensive oil at 3K. The M1 vs Kirkland thread came up as a related topic when this came up. It showed no meaningful difference, neither would your question comparing Mobil and Sopus (or Warren PP or anything else meeting spec).
 
Can't see any real brand difference in oils that meet specs and don't understand dropping expensive oil at 3K. The M1 vs Kirkland thread came up as a related topic when this came up. It showed no meaningful difference, neither would your question comparing Mobil and Sopus (or Warren PP or anything else meeting spec).
I like the idea of changing it more often since DI tends to run a little dirtier from what I've heard. I'm not saving much stretching it to 5k, but the peace of mind is worth the cost
 
If you are still witnessing a full dipstick mark just prior to your next oil change, that's not necessarily all oil on the dipstick. Owning engines notorious for fuel dilution, you need to get that oil analyzed, to gauge the amount of fuel dilution inside that drained oil. It's possible your engine may be consuming oil - then getting that volume replaced with fuel.

If you decide on a UOA, it's recommended by many here not to use Blackstone Labs.
 
If you're looking for a more cost effective 0w20 it's hard to beat Kirkland/Supertech for around $19-20 a jug, or for a few bucks more, Quaker State Ultimate Protection at just under $24. At the end of the day though, if you suspect fuel dilution to be an issue, you should be getting an oil analysis done by a lab that uses the proper GC method for fuel dilution. Then you aren't prematurely changing your oil just because you assume you've got a bigger problem than you might actually have.
 
Depending on your climate, the oil viscosity choice might matter. There is zero downside to a 30 viscosity oil in these engines. Also, it might be worthwhile to test multiple times for fuel dilution using a lab other than Blackstone. If not, you could possibly have unknown levels of fuel dilution that simply offsets oil use.

But back to the M1 question, I see zero advantage of using Pennz over M1, they are more similar than different. Of far more importance is regular maintenance.
 
Guessing if you have fuel dilution based on smelling oil, or not seeing the level rise is not a reliable way to tell at all. Why not get a UOA and let data tell you if you do or don't have a problem with fuel dilution? You might not have any problems at all, and can save yourself some time and money instead of relying on someone else, instead you'll have real world data from your car/cars.
 
It's currently $69 for 15 qt of M1 EP 0W20 at WM - can't beat the value of that:
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There is benefit to running a higher quality oil, even at short intervals.
 
It's currently $69 for 15 qt of M1 EP 0W20 at WM - can't beat the value of that:

There is benefit to running a higher quality oil, even at short intervals.

I'm not at all sure there is a higher quality oil available. That's about as good as it gets. Possibly there are 0W-20 oils with a wee bit more viscosity. But that's not related to quality.
 
It's currently $69 for 15 qt of M1 EP 0W20 at WM - can't beat the value of that:
View attachment 214690
There is benefit to running a higher quality oil, even at short intervals.
I just got 2 cases of that. Last time I bought they had $20 rebates on 2 jugs so they came down from $29 to $19 a piece. Still at $4.60 a quart that's a win and with my 3.75qt capacity it really makes changes cheap. Local dealer charges $8 per OEM filter

I heard that the 0w-20 EP specifically was one of their better offerings and since its worked well for me with no oil level rise I figured it was good. The question now is do I hoard a bunch before they change the formulation or not
 
I heard that the 0w-20 EP specifically was one of their better offerings and since its worked well for me with no oil level rise I figured it was good. The question now is do I hoard a bunch before they change the formulation or not
You keep mentioning no oil rise but that's not a proper test for fuel dilution. Too many factors involved to make it accurate unless the dilution is massive. The reality is that you don't know the level of dilution at this point, if any.

And why would you be concerned about a formulation change? Oils have formulation changes all the time, it doesn't make it automatically inferior.
 
If that’s a worry then buy an oil with verifiable performance such as one with VW 508 00 approval.

Even the one you’re mentioning has an API license which guarantees a certain level of performance.
 
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