Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t

After kicking it around for a while and with intelligent and reasoned logic from @kschachn as well as discussing it with both my service advisor and my Technician, going to make the switch from Mobil1 0w20 EP to Mobil1 5W-30 EP. Can't come up with any reason not to. Mobil1 doesn't publish HT/HS numbers but should be enough difference to effect long-term wear. Other than a tiny difference in mpg, can't see any downside. Cost is the same and should be able to safely extend OCI's to 4-5k.
Great choice. I highly doubt that you will even notice that difference in MPG.
 
I'm kinda' surprised both the service advisor and technician gave you green lights. Usually they go by the book.
Smart choice for that 1.5 engine. It really was your call and you made the right one.(y)
 
After kicking it around for a while and with intelligent and reasoned logic from @kschachn as well as discussing it with both my service advisor and my Technician, going to make the switch from Mobil1 0w20 EP to Mobil1 5W-30 EP. Can't come up with any reason not to. Mobil1 doesn't publish HT/HS numbers but should be enough difference to effect long-term wear. Other than a tiny difference in mpg, can't see any downside. Cost is the same and should be able to safely extend OCI's to 4-5k.
I can think of a reason not to use
M1 5w30.
M1 0w40 api sp.
In the last 7 years I’ve bought three Toyotas that specified XW20 that made it all the way from the dealership to home before Xw40 went in.
I’ve also switched my 2022 Acadia 3.6L to xW40, and to the horror of some members, drain the oil hot, wait until it stops dripping and pre fill the filter.
 
So I finally got through my 5k intervals with 0w-20 and moved to 5w-30 with the same OEM filters. Need to drive a few tanks to get a better gauge for MPG changes but I did notice the engine get a bit quieter right away, even compared to 0w-20 when fresh. I don’t typically warm up my car but start it up, buckle up and start driving gently after 15 seconds or so. With 0w-20 there was a notable tapping/slapping noise for the first few minutes of driving, I assume this was piston slap since there’s some thermal expansion that needs to occur and is quite common on modern engines apparently (and my built turbo Miata with Wiseco low silicon pistons also slap pretty notably while warming up). The same noise would pop up briefly after sitting at a longer light with the engine off (yes I do like the stop/start feature). This noise is now gone completely and I’ll be curious to see if it comes back as the oil thins out over the course of this interval. The engine overall just sounds a bit deeper and smoother IMO, I’ve been watching the tach to see if the RPM is maybe higher to overcome the added oil viscosity but I feel like it’s one of those things that if I look for I’ll think it’s there.

Will update here as I get more miles in but so far I’m content. I went from Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE to Mobil 1 5w-30 EP so not sure if what I’m hearing is just in my head or there’s actually a notable difference between them
 
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Will update here as I get more miles in but so far I’m content. I went from Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE to Mobil 1 5w-30 EP so not sure if what I’m hearing is just in my head or there’s actually a notable difference between them
I noticed the same thing with my Civic. The 1.5T, mine anyway, is VERY quiet from a mechanical clatter perspective. The loudest thing is the fuel injectors clicking. Anyway, with the thicker oil, the sound is even more damped. I also notice that the engine is ever so slightly less responsive, particularly when cold. It revs slower. As stupid as this sounds, but I can hear and feel the thicker oil at work.
 
I noticed the same thing with my Civic. The 1.5T, mine anyway, is VERY quiet from a mechanical clatter perspective. The loudest thing is the fuel injectors clicking. Anyway, with the thicker oil, the sound is even more damped. I also notice that the engine is ever so slightly less responsive, particularly when cold. It revs slower. As stupid as this sounds, but I can hear and feel the thicker oil at work.
My 1.5 DI Honda is the same with thick oil.
Although I cannot tell much difference in fuel economy, the performance is also slightly affected.
 
With equal quality oil the 5W-30 will give a higher [head room ] of protection. An oil works by keeping the parts separated and the additives prolong the life of the oil , keep the engine clean of deposits [some what] and other additives protect when the oil layer gets too thin or the oil film is pushed away , [ I know it is a simple explanation.] but thicker is better until it is too thick.
 
I was going to comment that the car felt a bit slower to respond to throttle but figured that was in my head or due to me running AC this week, I normally just drive with windows down but been a wet week.
 
Except there is no evidence to make the broad claim that that’s the case. But if that were the case I’d just run a thicker oil or change it more frequently. I know filters can last 2OCI or more depending on mileage, but they are so cheap (I buy OEMs @ $7.50 a piece and there are cheaper options) I don’t feel like it’s worth keeping them on to save the money.
If you already knew all the relevant evidence and were already convinced, why’d you start this thread?

Cars of all makes, models, sizes, HP ratings, and dummies behind the wheel have been using 30 grade oil for decades. If your car calls for an Xw20, you can be 10000000000% certain that if the Xw30 you choose meets or exceeds the manufacturer’s requirements, that your engine will never know you cheated and put a slightly thicker oil in it. It will likely even last longer. The end. 👋
 
If you already knew all the relevant evidence and were already convinced, why’d you start this thread?

Cars of all makes, models, sizes, HP ratings, and dummies behind the wheel have been using 30 grade oil for decades. If your car calls for an Xw20, you can be 10000000000% certain that if the Xw30 you choose meets or exceeds the manufacturer’s requirements, that your engine will never know you cheated and put a slightly thicker oil in it. It will likely even last longer. The end. 👋
You managed to go 3 pages back and didn’t even bother to read for context of what I was actually saying (that there is no evidence of fuel dilution requiring someone to drain/siphon their 0w-20 out halfway through the OCI). However I’ve not had evidence of any fuel dilution in my car which sees 15k mi a year or my wife’s 1.5t which gets short tripped 4k mi a year
 
You managed to go 3 pages back and didn’t even bother to read for context of what I was actually saying (that there is no evidence of fuel dilution requiring someone to drain/siphon their 0w-20 out halfway through the OCI). However I’ve not had evidence of any fuel dilution in my car which sees 15k mi a year or my wife’s 1.5t which gets short tripped 4k mi a year
Actually how I got 3 pages back was I started from the beginning and read forward. You hadn’t quoted anything else before your post in point, so you gave no way for anyone to know what “context” you would have been referring to. But my statement about you knowing all the relevant evidence is still on point, because you claimed to have started this thread to gather advice; over 5 pages you’ve managed to argue with just about everyone; some who’ve been doing this stuff for decades and you’ve told them they’re all wrong, and you’re right.

Why do you drag yourself down to our level here if you’ve already got all the answers?

30 grade oil that meets the required approvals is fine in your Honda and will not be detrimental to engine life compared to 20 grade. The end…
 
Yes there are and they are valid reasons. Many new vehicles have fuel dilution, ranging from mild to ridiculous. A higher grade will help protect the engine when diluted with fuel.

It’s also beneficial to reduce wear even when not diluted. Plus many higher HT/HS oils carry European approvals that are superior to API licenses in terms of deposit formation, sludge resistance, ring deposits and other undesirable concerns.

When it comes down to it, unless fuel economy is your sole and overriding goal then there is no reason not to use a higher grade. Aside from a truly tiny fuel consumption increase the rest are benefits.

In your opinion, what are a few of the better (Amazon, Walmart, similarly available) high HT/HS 5W-30 or 0W-30 oils?
 
Due to fuel dilution in Honda turbo DI, 5w-30 viscosity will drop and will be equivalent to XW-20. 5w-30 is necessary just so you can stay within factory recommended viscosity. Take a look at viscosity drop in many UOAs for this engine.
 
Due to fuel dilution in Honda turbo DI, 5w-30 viscosity will drop and will be equivalent to XW-20. 5w-30 is necessary just so you can stay within factory recommended viscosity. Take a look at viscosity drop in many UOAs for this engine.
Except fuel dilution is only a problem for a very small percentage of cars driven a certain way in certain climates.
 
I’m pretty sure I have said this before but I think a lot of people make a bigger deal out of this than they need to. Just think about all of the Honda vehicles made with the 1.5T and I bet that 99% of them are running the specified 0w20, but yet we aren’t hearing about them failing in any huge numbers. In fact I have seen quite a few very high mileage Civics posted in the forums that I frequent. That being said, I like that my Civic has the 2.0 engine as I definitely don’t have to worry about any potential fuel dilution issues
 
I’m pretty sure I have said this before but I think a lot of people make a bigger deal out of this than they need to. Just think about all of the Honda vehicles made with the 1.5T and I bet that 99% of them are running the specified 0w20, but yet we aren’t hearing about them failing in any huge numbers. In fact I have seen quite a few very high mileage Civics posted in the forums that I frequent. That being said, I like that my Civic has the 2.0 engine as I definitely don’t have to worry about any potential fuel dilution issues
And even beyond that, think about how many modern cars in general are using only DI (with or without a turbo) and run 0w-20. Of course someone will come in and say well it’s on purpose because manufacturers only design cars to last through the warranty period, and as we’ve seen in society when absolutely asinine things are said the contrarians just gobble it up

I moved to 5w-30 just as an experiment, engine seems a bit quieter but as others mentioned a bit less responsive. May go back to 0w-20, I don’t think it matters much one way or another
 
And even beyond that, think about how many modern cars in general are using only DI (with or without a turbo) and run 0w-20. Of course someone will come in and say well it’s on purpose because manufacturers only design cars to last through the warranty period, and as we’ve seen in society when absolutely asinine things are said the contrarians just gobble it up

I moved to 5w-30 just as an experiment, engine seems a bit quieter but as others mentioned a bit less responsive. May go back to 0w-20, I don’t think it matters much one way or another
No it is not that at all. It is because that is the oil grade the manufacturer used during EPA testing, and as such is the oil which must be recommended in the owner's manual. The physics of the MOFT still apply however, fundamental physics of oil films hasn't been suspended because you think "absolutely asinine things are said and the contrarians just gobble it up".

Always better to stick to facts rather than allow yourself to get rattled and lash out.
 
Except fuel dilution is only a problem for a very small percentage of cars driven a certain way in certain climates.


Are you generalizing cars? Majority of Modern Honda DI turbos will have fuel dilution of 4-5% even if car is driven normally. Check out numerous UOAs posted with various driving conditions.
 
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