Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t

That miniscule difference is pretty much the same difference there will be in wear. Is it real? Yes. Is it significant? No. The only real benefit for better wear results would be in stepping up to a Euro 30 or 40 with an HT/HS of 3.5. Not between a 20 and 30 API/ILSAC where the HT/HS difference is usually between 2.6 and 2.9.
Might REALLY be overkill for the type of driving I’m doing. I’d like to stick to the API stuff it calls for. Others may be willing to step outside of that, I don’t find it necessary.

Maybe in 6 months I’ll feel differently
 
No highway, I take all back country roads to work so there’s a good bit of pulse and glide and other techniques adapted from my Prius days where the only fun was seeing how high you could get the MPG number. There are some twisty fun parts of the commute and I do enjoy occasionally opening the car up too. I just try to keep a constant speed and throttle when I can and avoid braking and accelerating which inherently leads to pushing through some of the corners with a bit more haste than your typical commuter. If no one behind me I’m fine losing a few mph going up the hill knowing gravity will give me speed back for free on the other side

Okay, no highway, but a very light load type driving. That engine won't likely wear out from any sort of lubrication issues. You can use any sort of 0W-20 or 5W-30 you like. It won't matter. What we don't know at this point is what sort of issues kill a 1.5T when they reach high mileage. I saw an engine teardown video and the valves had some deposits on a lowish mileage engine. The head gaskets can fail prematurely. Fuel injectors. All stuff non oil related.
 
Okay, no highway, but a very light load type driving. That engine won't likely wear out from any sort of lubrication issues. You can use any sort of 0W-20 or 5W-30 you like. It won't matter. What we don't know at this point is what sort of issues kill a 1.5T when they reach high mileage. I saw an engine teardown video and the valves had some deposits on a lowish mileage engine. The head gaskets can fail prematurely. Fuel injectors. All stuff non oil related.
Yea they’re generally pretty reliable engines, carbon buildup and also injector issues I believe are going to be largely dependent on where and how you drive and maintenance habits (hence me cutting service intervals in half) and headgasket issues typically present on the Accord and CRV which both have a slightly more aggressive tune and are pulling around a heavier vehicle.

The upside is that the L15B7 is pretty old school in a lot of ways, and easy to work on. Turbo is mounted up front so removing that or associated lines should be easier than some cars, HP Fuel pump doesn’t interfere with valve cover removal, valve lash is still the old school adjustable kind and not a tappet design. It’s certainly not the same as my 97 civic but also a LOT more home mechanic friendly than a lot of cars
 
i thought honda solved the GDI carbon buildup issue by using valve overlap during the injection cycle so fuel hits the top of the pistons. I've seen some teardowns of higher mileage 1.5Ts and they had hardly any carbon buildup.
 
The only downside I see to using the 5w30 is if the car is under warranty. A friend with a Pilot (J35 with VCM had it serviced by a non Honda dealer that used 5w30). When the car suffered the oil ring blow by issue that is common with these cars, and they asked for service invoices in order to perform the campaign repair at Honda expense, they gave her a problem about the oil viscosity not being as specified (they saw it on the invoices). After a lot of back and forth I helped her get substantial coverage but not 100 percent like my wife had for her Pilot (dealer services with Ow20 as per manual). With my wife’s car, there were no questions asked they just gave her the keys to a loaner Pilot and told her it would be ready in 3-4 days.

To be clear, I think this was complete BS but not following service recommendations does potentially have risk in this sense and once you start arguing about what caused the issue, it is my view you have already lost.

But if the car is out of warranty, I see no downside whatsoever, in fact given the dilution motors those engines have it is a better choice. HTH and good luck.
 
they gave her a problem about the oil viscosity not being as specified
My Honda owner manual recommends motor oil viscosity, not specifies. It would be illegal to deny warranty because of that. ATF fluid on other hand is specified. Unfortunately, dealers are not educated and looking for any excuse to deny warranty. If they really want, they can question even legitimate receipts of DIY.
 
My Honda owner manual recommends motor oil viscosity, not specifies. ATF fluid on other hand is specified. Unfortunately, dealers are not educated and looking for any excuse to deny warranty. If they really want, they can question even legitimate receipts of DIY.
It’s not my intention to argue but rather to simply point out that under warranty there is a risk with not following owners manual service instructions, however they may be phrased. Lots of folks here, with all respect, seem to waive it away but it is a consideration. Have a good weekend.
 
It’s not my intention to argue but rather to simply point out that under warranty there is a risk with not following owners manual service instructions, however they may be phrased. Lots of folks here, with all respect, seem to waive it away but it is a consideration. Have a good weekend.
I agree that its a consideration. Did I say its not?
 
My Honda-Certified Master Technician and my dealers' service advisor both recommended 5W-30 as long as it's API SF GF-6A and energy conserving as is The Mobil1 5W-30 EP that i use. They indicated that it's helpful and what Honda is primarily concerned with is if the oil is changed regularly. Mine goes in every 3-4K and is changed by the dealer with my oil and their filter, Owner's manual RECOMMENDS 0W20, largely because of CAFE rules, doesn't REQUIRE it.
 
I agree that its a consideration. Did I say its not?
Begrudging between the lines acquiescence, but not agreement. Again, don’t want to argue with folks here, but just wanted to share this experience. Not you perhaps, but others dismiss warranty concerns but certain dealers, perhaps based on their experience obtaining reimbursement or the warranty guidelines from the manufacturer, will look at invoices. If you have to start explaining, then you are already losing, and quoting people from this forum who say contrary will not be persuasive (“This guy on a forum said the factory recommendation was BS and I should go with a higher viscosity because that is what is recommended with respect to a model sold in sub Saharan Africa that is a different car with the same motor.”)

Have a good weekend. Finally we have the nice fall weather.
 
Zero harm in going up grades especially with a DGI engine. The oil breakdown from fuel dilution from the direct injection fuel systems is a given.
 
Yea I don’t trust the dealers too much since they typically are instructed to parrot whatever the manufacturer wants, or just don’t know. You need to have a good trusting relationship with someone competent at the dealership and having worked at a dealer before I can tell you our “advisors” were just sales guys with their own quotas to meet.

I called a local dealer yesterday to get a quote for CVT fluid flush and asked about filters, after getting nowhere with 2 folks I got passed to some senior tech guy who said he’s never changed the filters in the transmission in 7 years and isn’t even sure they sell replacements for them (they do).
 
The probability of you needing engine warranty repair that is lubrication related is very low, but its not zero. A lot of things in life are about chances.
The manufacture has to have evidence that failure is oil related.
 
The probability of you needing engine warranty repair that is lubrication related is very low, but its not zero. A lot of things in life are about chances.
The manufacture has to have evidence that failure is oil related.
Problem is that you are now involved in a proverbial “pissing contest.” In the case of my friend, we had the burden of argument. This is, mind you, the same dealer that serviced my wife’s Honda and they were honest and did not upsell anything. You can quote Internet forums all you want, but the reality is they have something you want and the best, least aggravating way to get it is to not give them pretense to deny it.

Another quick story: wife now has a fairly new Subaru. Last time it was serviced, before she was going to go on a long trip to see her ailing dad and I couldn’t come, so I checked the car over. Noticed the dealer service sticker said the car was serviced with 0w30. Now the manual and the oil cap say 0w20. I was not alarmed at all, because the chances of this causing an issue are the same as Santa sliding down the chimney on Christmas Eve. But I was curious so I called the dealer and spoke to the service advisor. He sounded nervous and said he would call me back. Service manager calls me back and says bring the car in so they can put in the 0w20. I say thanks but no thank you that’s a waste of my time and their oil. He says he wants to check something else and will call me back. Calls me back in a few minutes and says he checked the service records and their record shows 0w20 was used. Sure enough, I check the receipt my wife received and it says 0w20. He said sometimes the stickers are printed incorrectly. No big deal I say, thanks for checking.

Now those of you who had cars serviced at a dealer know how hard it is to get a hold of a service advisor, never mind having the service manager call you twice in a 30 minute span. Based on this experience, does anyone think that the manufacturers aren’t checking what the dealers use? Or are these guys just really nice? Or perhaps I just have such a terrific personality that they like talking to me? Perhaps, I am pretty charming. Much more likely is that the manufacturers are looking as part of some sort of oversight for warranty or just general customer satisfaction. Now to be clear, do I think that 0w30 would cause damage? Absolutely not. Probably a better choice but irrelevant to the lifespan of the overall car. But my sense is that this experience is in accord with the Honda dealer experience, and if you show up looking for thousands of dollars in warranty work - I think the cost of the ring job required to fix the VCM related failure was most certainly a factor in their posture - and the service invoices do not show you have done what the owners manual says to do - irrespective of how it is phrased - you are courting needless aggravation. Life has enough unavoidable aggravation so I try to limit the needless. And none of this means dealer service is required, but the manual should be followed. And once it is out of warranty do what you like. But again, not following the manual and then telling the advisor that you read differently on an Internet forum is not a sound strategy.

Really just trying to help people avoid aggravation here. If the poster above still disagrees, that is fine. This is the last comment I will make, but people always make the “proof” point and it may be correct but also somewhat irrelevant in reality.
 
Maybe subaru manual is different, but Honda manual clearly recommends viscosity and not requires. It has a temperature chart that implies viscosity should be picked based on climate.

Never mention forums.
I would just stick to the story that you saw recommendation in manual, and also using viscosity that is appropriate for your climate and using API licensed oil as suggested by manual. Also, scanned the manual and found NO words that say “using non recommended oil viscosity may cause damage that is not covered by warranty”.


I get it that your friend had a bad experience with the dealer warranty, but there are other examples when engine warranty is provided without even asking for receipts. They typically only ask for receipts when they suspect neglect.

It all goes back to probability and your risk tolerance. Its probability is 0.01%, I am not going to obsess about “what if”
 
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Owner’s manual will state no additional additives are needed in the fuel and oil so why do dealer work try and sell additives flushes etc
 
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