Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t

Patman said:
That's a pretty bold statement considering there are likely thousands of Hondas on the road with over 300k on them that have been running 0w20 since new.
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I lost track of this thread some years ago, but I can't remember if this guy made it 600,000 + or more on an original engine in an R18 Honda Civic.

Either 5w-20 or 0w-20 for the duration:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/16100282/

This is the original thread and it goes on for a couple years with updates:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/2888746/
 
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SimpleSyrup said:
I lost track of this thread some years ago, but I can't remember if this guy made it 800,000 or 1 million on an original engine in an R18 Honda Civic.

Either 5w-20 or 0w-20 for the duration:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/16100282/

This is the original thread and it goes on for a couple years with updates:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/2888746/
Click to expand...

SimpleSyrup said:
I lost track of this thread some years ago, but I can't remember if this guy made it 800,000 or 1 million on an original engine in an R18 Honda Civic.

Either 5w-20 or 0w-20 for the duration:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/16100282/

This is the original thread and it goes on for a couple years with updates:

https://www.8thcivic.com/posts/2888746/
Click to expand...
Is it GDI Turbo ?
 
picklyrickly1073 said:
2022 Civic Sport Touring 1.5t currently running 0w-20 as the manual specifies and filling up with Top Tier 87 Octane but I've heard this L15B7 and variants do show 5w-30 in owners manuals in other parts of the world. However there may be other differences such as fuel which is more "potent" outside of the US which may be a factor in this (I don't know if it is or not but just thinking)

I'd like to keep the car for a long time as I'm already over having a car payment, curious if anyone has used 5w-30 long term in these engines and how they have been holding up. I don't have many short trips and drive pretty gently typically for MPG, but willing to trade off savings a few cents or a dollar per tank if it gives me a bit better protection. I'm doing 17,500 or so miles a year so getting to 200k would be nice, the car is really nice and versatile enough that I don't see a need for something bigger since we do have a CRV 1.5t in the house (which I'd put on the same diet if I make the jump to 5w-30)

Currently 5k OCI with factory filters and M1 EP 0w-20, would be using the same interval and filter but with M1 EP 5w-30. I know this has been covered here before but hoping to get some more feedback in one place or maybe someone has newer info to share.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind that about 60% of what you read is is smoke being blown towards your Wah-Zoo. Y%MV
 
tolian21 said:
So how is this relevant? Just because its Honda we need to expect same longevity with a new engine design? The non GDI version does not dilute oil with gas for one thing
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For the last 30 years people been saying the same thing.

"this time is different."

And I'm still waiting for that to come true.
 
SimpleSyrup said:
Brother it's just motor oil. If you want to be like the guy above that took a stock Honda Civic and ran it for 620,000 miles using exactly the oil Honda recommended at 12,000 mile intervals, go for it.

If you don't trust the company, don't buy the car. It's that simple.
Click to expand...

It might be simple for you, but not for others. If its so simple, why even discuss anything?
 
I was in the same camp of just trust the manufacturer, and while I do think Honda makes good engines modern engines as a whole are a lot higher stress than the old 115hp single cam D16 my old Civic used to have. Practically speaking going to the 5w-30 has not affected my drivability or MPG in any meaningful way, but if it helps me avoid some repairs down the road it’s worth it. That may not mean total engine failure but even doing a better job protecting the turbo, or avoiding deposits in the oil lines, etc. maybe it’ll help keep the piston rings clean and clear reducing blow-by down the road. I’ve also installed a catch-can as a preventative measure for whatever blow-by does occur, and to keep the valves clean.

My coworker told me to watch out for my oil seals blowing out from the added pressure, but pretty sure that’s not how that works.
 
Revving2Redline said:
theoretically...can having a fuel with too high cause problems say in the winter? Number indicates it detonation, but could too high be just as bad not getting complete burn off. For me, I get best from 89 e10 and 87 non ethanol at QT every other fillup. After doing all my math equations over the roughly 17.2 gallon tank, I get a mid 87.5 to 88 and some change. If I get too high of an octane it just doesn't seem to really make any returns on fuel economy or power
Click to expand...
Winter fuel is formulated differently than summer fuel.

I stored fuel for generators in 2.5 gallon red plastic gasoline jugs and rotated out old fuel and stocked new, every spring and fall. If I left winter gasoline in a jug in hot summer temperatures soooooooo much vapor pressures built up that the plastic jugs would have soooooo much pressure inside that instead of rectangular, they were more like red round basketballs that you could still make out wear the corners were.

Identical jugs with summer gasoline did not have deforming. The vapor pressure is much lower.

If one tries to run summer gasoline in cold winter temperatures, there may not be enough vapor given off when starting a cold engine, and the spark-plug may become wet resulting in shorting out the spark-plug and a no start.

Again, gasoline is formulated differently in winter, compared to summer.
 
picklyrickly1073 said:
I was in the same camp of just trust the manufacturer, and while I do think Honda makes good engines modern engines as a whole are a lot higher stress than the old 115hp single cam D16 my old Civic used to have. Practically speaking going to the 5w-30 has not affected my drivability or MPG in any meaningful way, but if it helps me avoid some repairs down the road it’s worth it. That may not mean total engine failure but even doing a better job protecting the turbo, or avoiding deposits in the oil lines, etc. maybe it’ll help keep the piston rings clean and clear reducing blow-by down the road. I’ve also installed a catch-can as a preventative measure for whatever blow-by does occur, and to keep the valves clean.

My coworker told me to watch out for my oil seals blowing out from the added pressure, but pretty sure that’s not how that works.
Click to expand...

I doubt it is as much stress as a F20C engine from 2000. 1990s engine design that rev'd to 9000 RPM, 2.0L N/A 240 hp. Known to be bulletproof on racetracks. Made by same Honda who tests and validates new engines.
 
Hopefully have solved the oil dilution issue in my wife's 2020 CRV EX-L 1.5t, which only gets 3500 short trips miles a year. Was changing every 6 months (about 1500-1700 miles) with Mobil1 5W-30 EP.
Traded it on a 2025 HRV EX-L 2.0NA, one of the few port-injected engines Honda still makes. By reputation, one of Honda's most reliable engines. My Service Technician actually drives a gen 10 Civic with the same engine, tells me after the first OCI (already bought 6 quarts of Mobil1 0w20 EP) an annual change would be just fine, this engine is very easy on oil. Only 158 hp, but runs very well but not a "hot-hatch" by any measure. It's quite pleasant to drive, quiet and seems lively enough. Had to lose the Hancook Synergy GT's it came with, they totally sucked. A set of Continental TrueContact Tour 54's made a world of difference, almost unbelievably good in the wet and very quiet. MPG is a bit less, but a decent trade-off to lose the direct injection, turbo and associated issues.
 
NorthernDriver said:
I doubt it is as much stress as a F20C engine from 2000. 1990s engine design that rev'd to 9000 RPM, 2.0L N/A 240 hp. Known to be bulletproof on racetracks. Made by same Honda who tests and validates new engines.
Click to expand...
That S2000 engine was just a regular punter when you drove it around town, in fact having driven both generations of the S2000 I can say the AP1 felt so gutless around town I thought something was broken when I drove it the first time after the AP2. That, the B16/18, K20/24 were all extremely underwhelming until you got past 5000-6000rpm so I seriously doubt they taxed the oil as heavily as modern engines with DI and turbos that spool almost instantly, both on track and during normal commuting. Just because the F20 was one of the highest HP/L engines of its time doesn’t mean it was high stress, if it was high stress stock then its doubtful people would have built them up to 600hp+ without ever opening up the engines
 
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