Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t

[Nessism1]

Moving from 0w20 to 5w30 with these fuel-diluting 1.5s and not exceeding 5k OCIs, should remind all-us Bitogers how smart many of us really are.

Agree...I think. So, for someone that commutes 6 miles each way, and doesn't drive much otherwise, what oil would you use? 0W-20 should flow better when cold, so I'm thinking that may be the play here? I've used both 0W-20 and 5W-30, and the thicker oil is noticeable from the drivers seat; the car is a little more sluggish when cold. And FYI, I've recently moved from 5k oil changes to 6 month. The smell of gas in the oil is strong at 5k, and noticeable at 6 months.

 

[Patman]

Agree...I think. So, for someone that commutes 6 miles each way, and doesn't drive much otherwise, what oil would you use? 0W-20 should flow better when cold, so I'm thinking that may be the play here? I've used both 0W-20 and 5W-30, and the thicker oil is noticeable from the drivers seat; the car is a little more sluggish when cold. And FYI, I've recently moved from 5k oil changes to 6 month. The smell of gas in the oil is strong at 5k, and noticeable at 6 months.

If you’re only driving 6 miles then your oil isn’t even getting fully up to temperature so I would stick with the 0w20. The 5w30 will be of no benefit in a situation like this.

 

[cryptolyme]

It might be simple for you, but not for others. If its so simple, why even discuss anything?

only 10w-60 in my turbo cars. thicker the better!

 

[picklyrickly1073]

only 10w-60 in my turbo cars. thicker the better!

I switched to 10w-60 for my bicycle chains and the shifting also immediately improved

 

[cryptolyme]

I switched to 10w-60 for my bicycle chains and the shifting also immediately improved

oh yea, well try a wax-based lube for ultimate performance. although, they don't last long at all.

 

[kschachn]

Now the comments are just being silly.

 

[Propflux01]

If you’re only driving 6 miles then your oil isn’t even getting fully up to temperature so I would stick with the 0w20. The 5w30 will be of no benefit in a situation like this.

This^^^^^

 

[cryptolyme]

Now the comments are just being silly.

my bad. currently running Mobil 1 EP 0w-20 in my Si.

crossing my fingers but think i finally fixed a weird rattly sound i was getting from the engine around 3k rpms with 75% throttle in 2nd/3rd gears. kinda sounded like pinging but i only run 93 octane and "knock control" is .49-.65 at the most. haven't heard it since adding a bottle of Gumout All-in-one to the fuel tank.

 

[picklyrickly1073]

my bad. currently running Mobil 1 EP 0w-20 in my Si.

crossing my fingers but think i finally fixed a weird rattly sound i was getting from the engine around 3k rpms with 75% throttle in 2nd/3rd gears. kinda sounded like pinging but i only run 93 octane and "knock control" is .49-.65 at the most. haven't heard it since adding a bottle of Gumout All-in-one to the fuel tank.

You don’t have to apologize to him, he’s not like an official around here

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I often wish that the chest-pounding members here that claim to know most everything, show us what engine they have and what oil / viscosity / oil filter, they're using.
Teach me something that way, or forever hold your quotes of my posts and your 'aimed at me' replies that I'm doing / using something wrong.

And please Moderators, please quit protecting and agreeing with supplier / sponsor associates here, when they're not seeing the entire picture of what I'm doing / using under the hood. Oil product blenders play frankenblend all the time while trying to form a recipe, but I can't because I threw away my Chemistry class parts in my senior year of high school?. I've been blending before some of these scientists were even born and never had an engine oil issue since I began driving in 1968.

Back on thread title....).....Those 1.5s will last a long-long time - similar to their GDI/ TGDIs they produce, should you keep the oil level full - use a thicker viscosity and change the oil more often, by only counting every 1k miles driven on your current OCI, using only one hand.

 

[picklyrickly1073]

I often wish that the chest-pounding members here that claim to know most everything, show us what engine they have and what oil / viscosity / oil filter, they're using.
Teach me something that way, or forever hold your quotes of my posts and your 'aimed at me' replies that I'm doing / using something wrong.

And please Moderators, please quit protecting and agreeing with supplier / sponsor associates here, when they're not seeing the entire picture of what I'm doing / using under the hood. Oil product blenders play frankenblend all the time while trying to form a recipe, but I can't because I threw away my Chemistry class parts in my senior year of high school?. I've been blending before some of these scientists were even born and never had an engine oil issue since I began driving in 1968.

Back on thread title....).....Those 1.5s will last a long-long time - similar to their GDI/ TGDIs they produce, should you keep the oil level full - use a thicker viscosity and change the oil more often, by only counting every 1k miles driven on your current OCI, using only one hand.

Yea I’ve kind of taken all of the precautions: catch can between the PCV and intake, 5w-30 and OEM filters every 5k miles, and top tier fuel.

 

[Astro14]

I often wish that the chest-pounding members here that claim to know most everything, show us what engine they have and what oil / viscosity / oil filter, they're using.
Teach me something that way, or forever hold your quotes of my posts and your 'aimed at me' replies that I'm doing / using something wrong.

And please Moderators, please quit protecting and agreeing with supplier / sponsor associates here, when they're not seeing the entire picture of what I'm doing / using under the hood. Oil product blenders play frankenblend all the time while trying to form a recipe, but I can't because I threw away my Chemistry class parts in my senior year of high school?. I've been blending before some of these scientists were even born and never had an engine oil issue since I began driving in 1968.

Back on thread title....).....Those 1.5s will last a long-long time - similar to their GDI/ TGDIs they produce, should you keep the oil level full - use a thicker viscosity and change the oil more often, by only counting every 1k miles driven on your current OCI, using only one hand.

The real chest pounding taking place here is you, or are you just yelling at clouds again?

You claim superiority on the basis of your experimentation, and you continue to bash moderators, oil, engineers, site sponsors, people who make oil and people who actually engineer engines.

The bashing, the chest pounding, is coming from you, and I am replying to you publicly, as a moderator, because you need to knock it off.

 

[Pablo]

I read his post. I went back to read what I posted. Thought for sure I was guilty. Now I am just confused.

PS Edit to add: Never confuse what people do with their own devices with a recommendation to do with your devices.

 

[tolian21]

Anyways, 5w-30 is perfectly fine in 2.0T or 1.5T Honda engines. Not really sure what is the argument about anymore…

 

[cryptolyme]

Anyways, 5w-30 is perfectly fine in 2.0T or 1.5T Honda engines. Not really sure what is the argument about anymore…

are we still arguing? maybe people should just post a side by side UOA of 0w-20 and 5w-30 under similar driving conditions.

 

[Patman]

are we still arguing? maybe people should just post a side by side UOA of 0w-20 and 5w-30 under similar driving conditions.

That wouldn’t tell the whole story because I’m sure both UOAs would be very similar in terms of wear numbers. The only true way to tell which oil gives you lower engine wear is to tear two engines down. And even then it really wouldn’t be accurate unless you had two drivers who drove the exact same route everyday and had the exact same driving style.

So in other words this type of comparison is very difficult to fully track.

 

[Rygrego]

2022 Civic Sport Touring 1.5t currently running 0w-20 as the manual specifies and filling up with Top Tier 87 Octane but I've heard this L15B7 and variants do show 5w-30 in owners manuals in other parts of the world. However there may be other differences such as fuel which is more "potent" outside of the US which may be a factor in this (I don't know if it is or not but just thinking)

I'd like to keep the car for a long time as I'm already over having a car payment, curious if anyone has used 5w-30 long term in these engines and how they have been holding up. I don't have many short trips and drive pretty gently typically for MPG, but willing to trade off savings a few cents or a dollar per tank if it gives me a bit better protection. I'm doing 17,500 or so miles a year so getting to 200k would be nice, the car is really nice and versatile enough that I don't see a need for something bigger since we do have a CRV 1.5t in the house (which I'd put on the same diet if I make the jump to 5w-30)

Currently 5k OCI with factory filters and M1 EP 0w-20, would be using the same interval and filter but with M1 EP 5w-30. I know this has been covered here before but hoping to get some more feedback in one place or maybe someone has newer info to share.

In other parts of the world they are recommending as high as 0W40 in all of their cars. 0W20 is for cafe standards.

 

[Jetronic]

I doubt it is as much stress as a F20C engine from 2000. 1990s engine design that rev'd to 9000 RPM, 2.0L N/A 240 hp. Known to be bulletproof on racetracks. Made by same Honda who tests and validates new engines.

did they run 0W20 in those?

 

[Jetronic]

That S2000 engine was just a regular punter when you drove it around town, in fact having driven both generations of the S2000 I can say the AP1 felt so gutless around town I thought something was broken when I drove it the first time after the AP2. That, the B16/18, K20/24 were all extremely underwhelming until you got past 5000-6000rpm so I seriously doubt they taxed the oil as heavily as modern engines with DI and turbos that spool almost instantly, both on track and during normal commuting. Just because the F20 was one of the highest HP/L engines of its time doesn’t mean it was high stress, if it was high stress stock then its doubtful people would have built them up to 600hp+ without ever opening up the engines

My experience with all the honda 16V engines summed up.

 

[cryptolyme]

did they run 0W20 in those?

10w30. was 0w20 even a thing back in 2000?