I am a n00bish when it comes to actual matters of motor oil. I have a 10 Mazdaspeed3(2.3L Trbo.) I'm just over 700miles on the motor and i will be doing the initial oil change at 1K miles. This car is my daily driver and AutoX work horse. On my daily commute i do drive the car somewhat hard around corners, and WOT pulls after its been warmed up. I wanted to start using Redline oil in it but i'm not sure if i should user 0w30 or 0w40. From my brief time on her i know that heavier isn't always better. I just wasn't sure of going with the heavier weight because of driving habits.
Lube N00b needs help.
- Thread starter RacerX78
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Redline all the way!!
Here is a recent UOA, but I think 0-30 might be a good choice
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/redline-0w20-10-500-miles-2007-mazda-3.129804/
You can't deny how good redline is. Turboed Applications it really shines
Here is a recent UOA, but I think 0-30 might be a good choice
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/redline-0w20-10-500-miles-2007-mazda-3.129804/
You can't deny how good redline is. Turboed Applications it really shines
Originally Posted By: RacerX78
I am a n00bish when it comes to actual matters of motor oil. I have a 10 Mazdaspeed3(2.3L Trbo.) I'm just over 700miles on the motor and i will be doing the initial oil change at 1K miles. This car is my daily driver and AutoX work horse. On my daily commute i do drive the car somewhat hard around corners, and WOT pulls after its been warmed up. I wanted to start using Redline oil in it but i'm not sure if i should user 0w30 or 0w40. From my brief time on her i know that heavier isn't always better. I just wasn't sure of going with the heavier weight because of driving habits.
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
I am a n00bish when it comes to actual matters of motor oil. I have a 10 Mazdaspeed3(2.3L Trbo.) I'm just over 700miles on the motor and i will be doing the initial oil change at 1K miles. This car is my daily driver and AutoX work horse. On my daily commute i do drive the car somewhat hard around corners, and WOT pulls after its been warmed up. I wanted to start using Redline oil in it but i'm not sure if i should user 0w30 or 0w40. From my brief time on her i know that heavier isn't always better. I just wasn't sure of going with the heavier weight because of driving habits.
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
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Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
If Mazda says to do it at 1k, he'll probably want to wait that 1k. The engine will still be shedding break-in metals, and there's no sense contaminating good oil with them.
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
If Mazda says to do it at 1k, he'll probably want to wait that 1k. The engine will still be shedding break-in metals, and there's no sense contaminating good oil with them.
According to the owners manual, there is no special break-in process needed. Just be careful with how you drive within the 1st 600. I'm trying to see what i can get as far as oil now locally. We have a jegs here but i think they only stock 5w30 and 5w40.
Edit: They don't have any of the 0w in stock so i'm going to go with 5w30 for now, with a pureone oil filter.
Edit: They don't have any of the 0w in stock so i'm going to go with 5w30 for now, with a pureone oil filter.
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
If Mazda says to do it at 1k, he'll probably want to wait that 1k. The engine will still be shedding break-in metals, and there's no sense contaminating good oil with them.
Exactly, and anything large enough to cause damage will be picked up in the filter. Some of you guys make it seem as if the he's effectively sandblasting the lubrication system by not changing any earlier
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Do it now, don't wait any longer -- that oil is like silver paint, full of metal particles. Do you want that circulating in your new engine? I always do my initial change before 250 miles -- oil is cheap.
If Mazda says to do it at 1k, he'll probably want to wait that 1k. The engine will still be shedding break-in metals, and there's no sense contaminating good oil with them.
Exactly, and anything large enough to cause damage will be picked up in the filter. Some of you guys make it seem as if the he's effectively sandblasting the lubrication system by not changing any earlier
It is really one of silliest and oldest myths...
We just bought a Mazda 3 and I'm waiting till when they say, 5,000 miles. I did it that with the Rabbit and it is, has been, and most likely always will be fine.
After that change I most certainly will be switching to synth in the 5w20 flavor.
We just bought a Mazda 3 and I'm waiting till when they say, 5,000 miles. I did it that with the Rabbit and it is, has been, and most likely always will be fine.
After that change I most certainly will be switching to synth in the 5w20 flavor.
I'm going to be changing the tranny fluid to over to the motorcraft Syn tranny fluid too. Its it worth adding the maganets drain plugs; or does the filter do a good enough job of keeping the fine pieces of metal from going back into the engine?
They can't hurt but to quantify whether they help well no concrete study has been done.
I went to the store actually picked up some Mobile 1 0w30. Since the engine is still wearing itself in, i wanted it to do its thing. Its also half the price of Redline line and it gives me time to have jegs order the 0w30 in redline for the next OC. I'll probably keep the OCI at 3000miles.
Red Line says to wait until 3k miles before switching to their oil. Don't think I would run the M1 0W-30 very long either.
Check this PP UOA on an MS3.
-Dennis
Check this PP UOA on an MS3.
-Dennis
Thats good to know. I'll probably wont keep the M1 in too long, just enough time to let it finish braking in, about 3000 miles or so.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
No sense spending so much money on oil if you only plan to keep it in there for 3kmi. I run Rotella T6 in my STI for more than double that. I understand the DISI 2.3L is tough on oil, but still...
Well the M1 was cheap at 24 for a 5gl container. When i swtich to Redline i may run it longer. This is also one of two cars i have so i don't drive it everyday so i will take a while to rack up the miles.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Of course you should do what you want. I think the point of coming to a site like this for info is to get the best bang for you buck while still protecting your baby. "But, it only costs..." isn't a very good excuse, IMO. The large popcorn is only $1 more, but I'd rather get a small and throw away a handful than pay an extra $1 and throw out half a tubs worth.
Is syn required by the mfg?
it doesn't say its required, but i'm not sure why i would run anything else.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Of course you should do what you want. I think the point of coming to a site like this for info is to get the best bang for you buck while still protecting your baby. "But, it only costs..." isn't a very good excuse, IMO. The large popcorn is only $1 more, but I'd rather get a small and throw away a handful than pay an extra $1 and throw out half a tubs worth.
My reason from coming to this site was to get knowledge from others who knew more than me when it comes to oil & lubes. As far as bang for your buck i got the M1 because a Syn so i'll get more protection but while still letting the engine finish wear-in. By the time i hit 3K miles it should be worn in and ready for a higher grade oil.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Of course you should do what you want. I think the point of coming to a site like this for info is to get the best bang for you buck while still protecting your baby. "But, it only costs..." isn't a very good excuse, IMO. The large popcorn is only $1 more, but I'd rather get a small and throw away a handful than pay an extra $1 and throw out half a tubs worth.
My reason from coming to this site was to get knowledge from others who knew more than me when it comes to oil & lubes. As far as bang for your buck i got the M1 because a Syn so i'll get more protection but while still letting the engine finish wear-in. By the time i hit 3K miles it should be worn in and ready for a higher grade oil.
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