I have a Crosstrek that requires the use of 0W20, but I wanted to know if it is recommended and safe to use 0W30 in the Crosstrek engine?
What are the pros and cons of such a move?
What are the pros and cons of such a move?
Logic behind using 0W30 in a 0W20 vehicle
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JHZR2
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Why would you want to? The conditions that might warrant a higher viscosity lubricant are fairly well established. Which of them will you hit that would justify going higher viscosity?
AZjeff
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Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
OP - do you not have an owner's manual?
http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/114698/pdf/ownerManual/114698_2015_Impreza/MSA5M1513DSTIS_16.pdf
*: If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available,
5W-30 or 5W-40 conventional oil may
be used if replenishment is needed but
should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic
oil at the next oil change
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
OP - do you not have an owner's manual?
http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/114698/pdf/ownerManual/114698_2015_Impreza/MSA5M1513DSTIS_16.pdf
*: If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available,
5W-30 or 5W-40 conventional oil may
be used if replenishment is needed but
should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic
oil at the next oil change
Pro: Longer engine life (just MHO).
Con: I'm still thinking.......
Con: I'm still thinking.......
I thought 0W30 was a step thinner in base oil viscosity than 0W20.
If so, 5W20 would be the next thicker oil, and 10W30 the next thicker after 5W20.
Synthetic or synthetic blend 10W30, might be your best next thicker oil.
If so, 5W20 would be the next thicker oil, and 10W30 the next thicker after 5W20.
Synthetic or synthetic blend 10W30, might be your best next thicker oil.
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
No, but it exists in BITOG mythology
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
No, but it exists in BITOG mythology
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
No, but it exists in BITOG mythology
It's part of the same myth that the thicker oil works better.
I use what the OEM tells me to use but the I don't think that plus or minus one grade makes any difference.
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Are you under your warranty period? If so, stick to factory spec.
Has anyone ever witnessed a case where a warranty claim was not honored because of (slightly) out of spec oil use? Ever?
No, but it exists in BITOG mythology
It's part of the same myth that the thicker oil works better.
I use what the OEM tells me to use but the I don't think that plus or minus one grade makes any difference.
It's not about the owners manual or the warranty, although those things count for most folks. It's about the motor. You have to dig deeper. If the clearances call for 0.0015 for the bearings and the journals are less than about 1.75" diameter, you need a 20 grade oil. That's what fits the fluid space and is all that's needed.
If, OTOH you have 0.0025~35 clearances and your journals are around 2"~2.5" diameter you can easily run a 30 or even a 40 grade. The same holds for the wrist pins, cam bearings, etc. Modern motors out to about 80~100,000 miles are tight enough to run a 20 and get away with it. Beyond about 100,000 the clearances are starting to open up and a 30 grade is more in keeping with the fluid space ...
Sure, some folks go 20 grade to 175K and sell the car or truck. Me, I'm shooting for getting closer to 300,000 before an overhaul or a sale. so I chase the bearing clearances with viscosity. I do not want metal to metal contact in 99% of the engine. There are a few places like the valves and seat, the PCV check valve that you actually want a complete metal to metal contact. But not on rotating parts...
So use what fits the situation. That's why I always say listen to the motor with the hood up on a cold start after it has set for a week or so. If it rattles, clicks, clacks, or and knocks; your oil is wrong, or maybe your filter, or both ... A smooth quiet motor is a good goal. Won't always happen, but it's still worth trying
If, OTOH you have 0.0025~35 clearances and your journals are around 2"~2.5" diameter you can easily run a 30 or even a 40 grade. The same holds for the wrist pins, cam bearings, etc. Modern motors out to about 80~100,000 miles are tight enough to run a 20 and get away with it. Beyond about 100,000 the clearances are starting to open up and a 30 grade is more in keeping with the fluid space ...
Sure, some folks go 20 grade to 175K and sell the car or truck. Me, I'm shooting for getting closer to 300,000 before an overhaul or a sale. so I chase the bearing clearances with viscosity. I do not want metal to metal contact in 99% of the engine. There are a few places like the valves and seat, the PCV check valve that you actually want a complete metal to metal contact. But not on rotating parts...
So use what fits the situation. That's why I always say listen to the motor with the hood up on a cold start after it has set for a week or so. If it rattles, clicks, clacks, or and knocks; your oil is wrong, or maybe your filter, or both ... A smooth quiet motor is a good goal. Won't always happen, but it's still worth trying
Originally Posted By: CT8
I can't see using a 20wt unless you are in the Arctic.
Exactly.
I can't see using a 20wt unless you are in the Arctic.
Exactly.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
It's not about the owners manual or the warranty, although those things count for most folks. It's about the motor. You have to dig deeper. If the clearances call for 0.0015 for the bearings and the journals are less than about 1.75" diameter, you need a 20 grade oil. That's what fits the fluid space and is all that's needed.
If, OTOH you have 0.0025~35 clearances and your journals are around 2"~2.5" diameter you can easily run a 30 or even a 40 grade. The same holds for the wrist pins, cam bearings, etc. Modern motors out to about 80~100,000 miles are tight enough to run a 20 and get away with it. Beyond about 100,000 the clearances are starting to open up and a 30 grade is more in keeping with the fluid space ...
Sure, some folks go 20 grade to 175K and sell the car or truck. Me, I'm shooting for getting closer to 300,000 before an overhaul or a sale. so I chase the bearing clearances with viscosity. I do not want metal to metal contact in 99% of the engine. There are a few places like the valves and seat, the PCV check valve that you actually want a complete metal to metal contact. But not on rotating parts...
So use what fits the situation. That's why I always say listen to the motor with the hood up on a cold start after it has set for a week or so. If it rattles, clicks, clacks, or and knocks; your oil is wrong, or maybe your filter, or both ... A smooth quiet motor is a good goal. Won't always happen, but it's still worth trying
Just jump a couple weights right away and avoid the early unnecessary excessive wear...otherwise well said.
It's not about the owners manual or the warranty, although those things count for most folks. It's about the motor. You have to dig deeper. If the clearances call for 0.0015 for the bearings and the journals are less than about 1.75" diameter, you need a 20 grade oil. That's what fits the fluid space and is all that's needed.
If, OTOH you have 0.0025~35 clearances and your journals are around 2"~2.5" diameter you can easily run a 30 or even a 40 grade. The same holds for the wrist pins, cam bearings, etc. Modern motors out to about 80~100,000 miles are tight enough to run a 20 and get away with it. Beyond about 100,000 the clearances are starting to open up and a 30 grade is more in keeping with the fluid space ...
Sure, some folks go 20 grade to 175K and sell the car or truck. Me, I'm shooting for getting closer to 300,000 before an overhaul or a sale. so I chase the bearing clearances with viscosity. I do not want metal to metal contact in 99% of the engine. There are a few places like the valves and seat, the PCV check valve that you actually want a complete metal to metal contact. But not on rotating parts...
So use what fits the situation. That's why I always say listen to the motor with the hood up on a cold start after it has set for a week or so. If it rattles, clicks, clacks, or and knocks; your oil is wrong, or maybe your filter, or both ... A smooth quiet motor is a good goal. Won't always happen, but it's still worth trying
Just jump a couple weights right away and avoid the early unnecessary excessive wear...otherwise well said.
I'm sure you could run a 5w30 without worry either...
Running 0w30 M1 in my Cobalt now...pretty much anything else I have ever put in it-it runs just fine on it. Not going to hurt it with pretty much whatever I dump in there, provided I change it on time.
The only issue I have with the 0w30 is the noise-it's going to drive me nuts! Trying not to pay much attention, but on the next oil change it's going back to 5w30....
Running 0w30 M1 in my Cobalt now...pretty much anything else I have ever put in it-it runs just fine on it. Not going to hurt it with pretty much whatever I dump in there, provided I change it on time.
The only issue I have with the 0w30 is the noise-it's going to drive me nuts! Trying not to pay much attention, but on the next oil change it's going back to 5w30....
FWIW OP Mobil DOES show their 0w30 as being approved for the Subaru FA20 per their tech support.
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