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0w-30/5w-30 in a 2024 crosstrek and subaru timing chains
- Thread starter Redhawk454
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I would use what the manual recommends particularly during the warranty. If there are any issues under warranty, you don’t want to get into an evidentiary dispute about whether the oil choice (as shown in any receipts that would be required to verify service if the car is not dealer serviced) caused an issue. Note that I am not saying such a choice would be the reason for a failure (akin to as likely as Santa coming down the chimney) but as a customer you do not want to be in the position of having to argue with a company that is a lot bigger, and has a lot more money and resources, than the average person.
As far as those who think that Subaru, or any of the major manufacturers, would sacrifice their reputation with the consumer and offer a faulty oil recommendation, I would offer that buying a factory extended warranty out to 100k - 125k miles that covers just the powertrain is typically very cheap. No one has better reliability information that the manufacturer (they get to see the service and warranty claims, the parts demand, etc.) This tells me that the risk of serious powertrain issues on these cars is low, as reflected in the warranty cost. By contrast, it is when you add in coverage for gizmos and gadgets to 100k or longer that these warranties get quite costly. Again, that tells me where the actual risk is.
Fwiw, we have a 2023 Outback we bought last January. Factory recommended fill is 0w20. HTH and good luck.
As far as those who think that Subaru, or any of the major manufacturers, would sacrifice their reputation with the consumer and offer a faulty oil recommendation, I would offer that buying a factory extended warranty out to 100k - 125k miles that covers just the powertrain is typically very cheap. No one has better reliability information that the manufacturer (they get to see the service and warranty claims, the parts demand, etc.) This tells me that the risk of serious powertrain issues on these cars is low, as reflected in the warranty cost. By contrast, it is when you add in coverage for gizmos and gadgets to 100k or longer that these warranties get quite costly. Again, that tells me where the actual risk is.
Fwiw, we have a 2023 Outback we bought last January. Factory recommended fill is 0w20. HTH and good luck.
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I still don't know what engine is in the OP's car, and yet all these
"recommendations" ...
My family are on our second FB 2.0. Ours have run fine on 0W/5W-20 though past posts show I am not a proponent of 20 grade lubes.
I am not a fan of VM laden 5W30 lubes either. Less VM (aka: VII) the better for longevity and quiet running - though the temporary shear action improves economy purportedly, along with necessary CCS and product cost/pricing targets.
Got one in the Ford now (see my sig). Engine is not a happy camper.
"recommendations" ...
My family are on our second FB 2.0. Ours have run fine on 0W/5W-20 though past posts show I am not a proponent of 20 grade lubes.
I am not a fan of VM laden 5W30 lubes either. Less VM (aka: VII) the better for longevity and quiet running - though the temporary shear action improves economy purportedly, along with necessary CCS and product cost/pricing targets.
Got one in the Ford now (see my sig). Engine is not a happy camper.
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Subaru, like all manufacturers, knows that most people trade in before 100k miles, or when the warranty expires, or mayhaps they trade in every 10 years. I want 500k+ miles out of any vehicle I own. I'm looking at my roo long term.
500k miles is not a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle. The engine may last but literally every other system of the car will need to be overhauled to be reliable. This leaves to the side issues like the AC working, the seats being worn out, etc. 200-250k is a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle.
Looks like both the FB20 and FB25 recommend 0W-16 with "0W-20 conventional" being allowed for replenishment, and thicker viscosity being required in hot temps. That "replenishment" language as been around since ~2011 and the thicker viscosity language even longer than that. It was in my 2004 Forester XT manual. Several years ago, I was back and forth with a Subaru CSR asking them to find a conventional 5W-40 that I could use in FXT. They couldn't find one.
Pages 504 and 505.
The JDM Crosstrek e-boxer manual lists 0W-20 as a start and goes up to Euro 0W-30 (the Les Pleiades ZERO 0W-30 being recommended).
Page 711:
I believe that the FB20 is the only choice in Japan.
2023 Subaru Crosstrek launched in Japan – 145 PS 2.0L e-Boxer; AWD and FWD; priced from RM87k - paultan.org
Following its global debut in September this year, the all-new Subaru Crosstrek has now gone on sale in Japan. The name may be unfamiliar to us because we know the crossover as the XV here …
paultan.org
As for dealers using 0W-20 because it's easier to source than 0W-16, I wonder if SoA reimburses them on warranty claims when the dealers submit a claim for reimbursement? One would presume so. I know in DIY cases, the district Subaru rep always requests oil receipts.
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It won’t stop me from trying
Here is a 500,000 mile Ford Escape with a logbook of things...
2008 Ford Escape Hybrid: 500K Miles, Still In Patrol Service
If you ever had any doubt that hybrids were durable--and many people do--here's a case study to set your mind at ease. A white base-model 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid has just crossed 500,000 miles, which possibly makes it the highest-mileage Escape Hybrid on the road. That's much higher than the...
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Why? Just use the oil you want.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Applies to automation in general - commissioning and “getting the bugs out“ for a period - runs well for a long period - finally age starts to cause more and more NPT etc …Never knew of this terminology
What gives you the idea that thicker oil [0W-30] might be counter productive?
Isn’t the Subaru commercial all about they’re the longest lasting longest owned vehicles on the road?
Just wanted to share an interesting story: wife has a 2023 wagon. She takes care of it, including service, but every so often I will check it over for her, particularly if she is going somewhere longer distance. Car looked fine and she had it serviced a few days before. I see that little sticker the dealers put on the windshield and it says the car was filled with 0w30 synthetic. Now the manual and the oil cap both say 0w20. So I call the dealer and talk to the service rep. Tell him that I was curious why they appeared to use 0w30 when Subaru says 0w20. Tell him I am not panicked or thinking the motor will be damaged, just curious. He takes down my info and says he will call me back. Calls me back and tells me to bring the car back so they can drain it and refill with 0w20. I tell him that is not really necessary and likely a waste of my time and their oil. He agrees and we leave off politely. Few minutes later service manager calls me back and tells me he looked into the paperwork on the car and in fact 0w20 was used. I go upstairs to pull the receipt from the maintenance file and it says 0w20. He explains sometimes they make a mistake when making the sticker. I accept the story politely and wasn’t worried because it is a Subaru dealer, the car is under warranty, and I have an invoice saying they used the right oil so if so does unexpectedly go sideways it is their problem.
So no issue here other than I thought it was interesting that these folks called me back multiple times to make sure the Subaru specified viscosity was in the crankcase. Again, I would be really shocked if 0w30 would cause an issue, but my spidey sense and professional experience tells me Subaru likely looks if there is a problem or warranty claim, and the dealer doesn’t want to be on the hook, however small the likelihood. This experience, fwiw, counsels me to follow the Subaru viscosity recommendation during the warranty and any extended warranty because those of us who have experience servicing cars at dealers know how difficult it is to get them to call you so to get multiple callbacks, including one for the service manager, means someone is looking at whether the recommendations were followed. At least that is my hypothesis. Again, simply as a data point or ”fwiw.”
So no issue here other than I thought it was interesting that these folks called me back multiple times to make sure the Subaru specified viscosity was in the crankcase. Again, I would be really shocked if 0w30 would cause an issue, but my spidey sense and professional experience tells me Subaru likely looks if there is a problem or warranty claim, and the dealer doesn’t want to be on the hook, however small the likelihood. This experience, fwiw, counsels me to follow the Subaru viscosity recommendation during the warranty and any extended warranty because those of us who have experience servicing cars at dealers know how difficult it is to get them to call you so to get multiple callbacks, including one for the service manager, means someone is looking at whether the recommendations were followed. At least that is my hypothesis. Again, simply as a data point or ”fwiw.”
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should I run 0w-30 or 0w-20? I hate thin oil but still hesitant to run 0w-30.
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ex gf had a 2011 impreza that i think has the same natty 2.5 liter engine and it called for 5w-30. I'm not sure why that engine requires 5w-30 and mine calls for 0w-16/20. Other than CAFE reasons. i really wonder if the clearances became tighter.
A 20-grade oil is on the cusp of what most engines can tolerate without modification and not incur excessive wear under most circumstances. After that some design changes are typically incorporated to permit thinner oils, such as wider bearing surfaces, not clearances. It's also why ILSAC GF-6B uses a different logo.
But regardless, what the manual recommends must be what the fuel economy testing used to establish CAFE compliance. An automaker cannot recommend anything else. Prior year vehicles likely used a 30-grade for testing.
How do the clearances handle it?
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