Life on the West Coast

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Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Sounds like Washington and Oregon are the 2 states we should focus on, then. We both want a change of seasons, and both want lots of outdoors. A smaller city would be a good compromise, although Seattle does sound pretty decent.

They sock it to us here in NY too, so it's not that much different.

You might consider BEND, OREGON in central OR (sits right up against the beautiful Cascade mountains). We're located in just about the center of the state. We have seven snow-covered mountains ranging from 8 to 10 thousand feet high, that can be viewed from most places in the city. Beautiful rivers and dozens of lakes within a 35 to 50 mile radius. (The beautiful Deschutes River runs right through town). River rafting, fly-fishing, hikeing, bicycling (Major bike races are run through here each year).

It meets your city size criteria with about 85,000 + or -, with an elevation of 3500 feet....and has all the shopping you need. We have four seasons....with clean and dry air (no humidity to speak of)....and very little rain (unlike Portland and Seattle). Average high today is 82...with lows in the low 50's (no matter how warm it gets...it always cools down in the evening). We get some snow in the winter....and Mt. Batchlor ski resort (about 10,000 ft.)... is less than a half hour drive away (many people come here from western Oregon and Washington to ski). Most winter days are sunny, but cold (average high in Jan. and Feb. would be in the high 30's to low 40's....but it can get down to 0 to 10 degrees on some winter days .

The real estate has gone down considerably...so the next year or two would be an ideal time to purchase....but rents of homes and condos are very reasonable.

Come out and visit us....and you'll be sold.

Check with the Bend Chamber....and they will send you a newcomers kit.


Are you sure you aren't in sales? That's a great pitch! Sounds ideal from what you're describing. Not too big, not too small, skiing nearby, lots of water, and gorgeous views.

Will indeed contact the Bend Chamber for that newcomer's kit. Thanks!
 
Bend is a nice place. A little dry for me.

I lived in Grants Pass, OR for 5 years. Summers are quite hot there. (90-100°F every day, but dry) But always a cool breeze coming down the valley in the evening.
 
Pablo, I know how you feel. It is becoming more difficult to have a discussion around here. There are some very intolerant people who probably consider the people in the main society to be intolerant but never look at themselves.

In the Computer section you have to be anti-Microsoft and anti-Windows and pro Open Source, pro Linux, and pro Mac.

I can think of a strange mountain community (well, it is actually two communities) in Colorado that I like to visit but I don't know if I would be able to live there. Sort of half hippie and half mountain town. I have been there 3-4 times for photography. It is beautiful and different with all kinds of temples, mountain peaks, strange beauty, etc. How it developed the way it did I have no idea. Seems really out of place in Colorado. Probably really cold in the wintertime also. I can get along with all kinds of people but I don't know if they would accept ME! So it would probably be a bad idea for me to try to live there.
 
There are loonies everywhere. We've got a ton of them here in NY. Fortunately they can be shut up pretty easily by talking about the latest weather calamity the local news is hawking (or hocking up, depending on point of view). Where the weather is nicer it takes a little more, such as removing oneself in extreme circumstances.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Sounds like Washington and Oregon are the 2 states we should focus on, then. We both want a change of seasons, and both want lots of outdoors. A smaller city would be a good compromise, although Seattle does sound pretty decent.

They sock it to us here in NY too, so it's not that much different.

You might consider BEND, OREGON in central OR (sits right up against the beautiful Cascade mountains). We're located in just about the center of the state. We have seven snow-covered mountains ranging from 8 to 10 thousand feet high, that can be viewed from most places in the city. Beautiful rivers and dozens of lakes within a 35 to 50 mile radius. (The beautiful Deschutes River runs right through town). River rafting, fly-fishing, hikeing, bicycling (Major bike races are run through here each year).

It meets your city size criteria with about 85,000 + or -, with an elevation of 3500 feet....and has all the shopping you need. We have four seasons....with clean and dry air (no humidity to speak of)....and very little rain (unlike Portland and Seattle). Average high today is 82...with lows in the low 50's (no matter how warm it gets...it always cools down in the evening). We get some snow in the winter....and Mt. Batchlor ski resort (about 10,000 ft.)... is less than a half hour drive away (many people come here from western Oregon and Washington to ski). Most winter days are sunny, but cold (average high in Jan. and Feb. would be in the high 30's to low 40's....but it can get down to 0 to 10 degrees on some winter days .

The real estate has gone down considerably...so the next year or two would be an ideal time to purchase....but rents of homes and condos are very reasonable.

Come out and visit us....and you'll be sold.

Check with the Bend Chamber....and they will send you a newcomers kit.


Are you sure you aren't in sales? That's a great pitch! Sounds ideal from what you're describing. Not too big, not too small, skiing nearby, lots of water, and gorgeous views.

Will indeed contact the Bend Chamber for that newcomer's kit. Thanks!

Use to sell real estate before I retired....

I moved here almost seven years ago....and like it real well
Glad I could be helpful....Look me up when you move here!
 
Here's my take, and though it may ruffle some feathers, it's good to have differing viewpoints...no?

If you're going to make a move like that, I'd take the time to explore beyond the national clichés (Seattle, Portland and everything west of the mountains). Granted, your wages will be higher...but real estate prices (even now) aren't proportional to the increased wages; in effect, you're going to pay a lot for a house, unless you want to live bunched together w/your neighbors. Also, don't brush off the stereotype of people from the westside being passive/aggressive (Google it); I don't find Seattle to be particularly child friendly, regardless of what is claimed. You bring a child into a restaurant or coffee house and things tend to get chilly. Portland is better in that regard (IMO), and their traffic infrastructure is far better than Seattle (good light rail, no tunnel/viaduct issues, easier & quicker to navigate). Also, if you want to get to the "real" ocean (and the Puget Sound isn't really the ocean), Portland is a better choice...you can get out to Cannon Beach or Astoria in about an hour and fifteen minutes; Long Beach & Ocean Shores (two popular tourist areas in S.W. WA) are another 30-45 minutes.

As far as weather, yeah...it doesn't rain as much as people believe. But boy is it cloudy in Seattle: 200 days a year (and partly cloudy almost another 100). I imagine Portland is similar, though you can't extrapolate from one place to another (there is a town called Sequim in the great Puget Sound area that is actually a sunny place to live). But in neither place will you find a true "four seasons"; I lived in MD & PA previously and that is nothing like Seattle/Portland. You'll have mild temps, a few snowy days where people drive like morons, a lot of winter/spring rain, and very moderate summer weather that makes people freak out when it occasionally reaches 90F. Seriously, you don't need A/C...maybe a heat pump, if you are quick to swoon...but no dedicated A/C.

Also, don't underestimate the local tax structures. Seattle will bend you over for any penny they can in order to fund various social causes; they'll also bait & switch on taxes, taking money earmarked for one cause and throw it at some other folly (hotel/airport/rental car taxes, stadium taxes, on-and-on). There's a serious debate right now in Seattle about adding $80-100 in car tab fees to fund bike lanes and trails (among other things). I can't speak about Portland in that regard, as I don't know enough about the city. But Seattle's leadership has a serious problem w/overestimating the affluence of it's residents and sees fit to tax people at will; listening to them, you'd think there are no ditch diggers, gas pumpers and burger flippers in the metropolis.

If it were me, I'd move to Vancouver, WA and take advantage of both states. You get the city-life and conveniences of Portland, but you don't have to pay Oregon income tax. Also, you do your big-ticket item shopping in Portland and avoid WA sales tax (8.1% or more). As stated earlier, you can get to the real ocean pretty quickly, you can readily ski/hike/mountain bike, you have world-class windsurfing just an hour up the Columbia River, good wineries and great local breweries are all over and you don't have to feel bad about your professional sports teams...as you don't really have any (which is still better than having the SeaChickens & SubMariners). My wife & I are thinking of retiring there some day (not retiring, but when the kids graduate and we're a DINK couple again); however, I was just down there last month on vacation and I was deeply disturbed by the numbers of men wearing capris. That will have to change before I move down there...

All of this said, I'm currently an eastsider and I don't want any more people moving over here (there are enough CA retirement transplants moving up here as it is). As such, there's an "us vs. them" mentality that runs from Canada down to the California border...even some nutty talk once in a while about forming a new state (I won't make jokes about where that state might rank after such a split). Personally, I think it's great that Pablo and the others fund our roads, parks, public works projects, dam maintenance, etc. Thus, I'm grateful for all their high-falutin ways, supposedly universal six-figure incomes and eastsider loathing (though they do seem to like Lake Chelan, Leavenworth and our numerous wineries).

BTW: If your political views tend to run upstream of the locals (either west or east of the mountains), you'd better be prepared to pull your hair out. It's an extremely partisan "herd mentality," w/east being conservative (not Republican, but "red meat" Tea Party) and west being liberal (not Democrat, but San Francisco-esque liberalism). I'm not going to get into my views, but I'm in the distinct minority where I live...thus, I can empathize w/some of the westside posters in this thread.

Whatever you do though, please expand your horizons by seeing everything you can in both states before moving out here. The Pacific Northwest is not just "Seattle & Portland"...regardless of what people in Seattle & Portland will tell you. You'd be amazed at how many of those people never stray from those places.
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Originally Posted By: Oregoonian


Come out and visit us....and you'll be sold.


Having visited Bend earlier this year, I must agree. I wouldn't mind moving there myself. Although from what I've seen, property prices are still fairly high, driven up by significant influx of fairly wealthy population moving up from Cali.
 
Originally Posted By: Mustang_Cougar
The Pacific Northwest is not just "Seattle & Portland"



Quoted for truth.

The best places I have lived in the PNW?

Lynden, WA and Grants Pass, Or

Worst Places? King County and Lynnwood (which is in Snohomish County, next to King County, WA).
 
I have not been to Oregon or Washington but I always heard that there is a huge amount of difference between the large cities of Portland and Seattle compared to the rest of those states. I would prefer a smaller city anyway, myself.
 
Been in the Seattle area many decades. Back in the 70's I really enjoyed the area. Now? Well, population has grown tremendously since then...along with all the related issues that entails (traffic, crime, costs, fees, regulation). The ethnicity of the area has also changed considerably. Large populations of Hispanics, Asians, African Americans and eastern Europeans. Not saying that it's a bad thing....just very diverse and as such one can expect occasional racial issues to crop up. As for the topography and weather? We have a real interesting state in that we can visit the Pacific ocean, the inland Puget Sound, the beautiful and wild Cascade mountain range, and finally....the dry desert region of eastern Washington. Canada is very close as well for those that enjoy Vancouver and/or Victoria. The weather here can get tiresome as in the form of endless clouds and gloom from November through March or April. Yes...it rains a lot during those months. But in the form of drizzle for the most part. Of course this creates a very green landscape (at least in western Washington). Seasonal changes however DO NOT compare to the east coast....if that is what you like. Fall is not nearly as spectacular unless you visit the higher elevations. On the plus side our winters....and summers, are very mild for the most part. No salt on roads either. Cars last a long time here.
And as for Bend, Oregon? Beautiful in the summer and hot and sunny as well. Colder winters with ice and snow. It's a higher desert elevation and has a rather short growing season....but it's still a very nice place. Most 'locals' are not really local at all. Most have moved there from California or someplace less desirable than Bend. A large amount of tourism prevails...winter skiing is huge....summer hiking,cycling, fishing and golf are equally in abundance. Employment in Bend? Not so good. They got hit REAL hard the past few years and it will be many years before they recover.
All in all the west coast has a more 'dynamic' (perhaps the wrong word) feel to it than the east. People are nice for the most part and not as group oriented as I've noticed in the east. No old biases about who you are or where you came from for the most part. Nobody really cares. Westerners seem a tad more forward thinking and maybe more active in many things outdoors including physical activities. Just my opinion though.
Good luck and I hope you find a nice place to live out here.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian


Come out and visit us....and you'll be sold.


Having visited Bend earlier this year, I must agree. I wouldn't mind moving there myself. Although from what I've seen, property prices are still fairly high, driven up by significant influx of fairly wealthy population moving up from Cali.

As a Bend-ite....who has lived here for over six years....and a retired Realtor....I must disagree with you regarding property prices. Prices have plumeted and are down to where you can purchase home at 2002 prices (I'm guessing 40 to 50% below what homes sold for in 07' & 08' highs)). There are real bargins out there....so I don't know how you can say that RE is "still fairly high". Just check with the local MLS (Multiple Listing Service) or a long time area Realtor...and you'll get the real picture of whats happening in the the Bend, OR RE market.

In fact you can buy a older home (5 to 10 Year old) much cheaper than you can build the same home today.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Lynden, WA and Grants Pass, Or

My brother (who also posts here) and I lived in Bellingham during the early-mid 80's and that whole area (Mount Vernon north to the border) was pretty cool, if not a little wet. You were on the ocean, it was easy enough to travel to the San Juan Islands and Vancouver/Victoria (this was obviously pre-9/11) and Mt. Baker was right at your doorstep. Alas, I've heard that it's gotten out of control (home prices, population, Seattle-area transplants) and that WWU has become a bigger version of The Evergreen State University.

As for Grants Pass, I have an employee who moved up here (Spokane) from there about a year ago...and she's pining to go back. I'm doing everything I can to trash Oregon in her mind, as she's a great employee. If this doesn't work, I'm going to have to pool my female staff together and have them get her a husband (one of them is married to a firefighter...and chicks love firefighters, right?). Let's hope I can turn her to the dark side!
 
The last few pages have been excellent for the on-the-ground information totally lacking on Web sites describing these places.

I think a trip out is in order to see the area. Now when that trip would happen is anybody's guess knowing my ever-changing work schedule.
 
Well actually the cool thing about Lynden is that it would clear much faster than B-ham in the AM, more inland. Ideal spot - with one problem. Every few years an arctic storm drops straight down with blizzard winds.....and sometimes combining right on my property in the form of 4 inches of ice on the north side of the house and/or encasing a car in ice (amazing!)

Grants Pass is pretty mellow, just hot as blazes in the summer.

Neither place has much for work, really. Hence my shlogging it out here. 10 years MAX baby.

My ideal spot? Just inland from Westport
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
The last few pages have been excellent for the on-the-ground information totally lacking on Web sites describing these places.

I think a trip out is in order to see the area. Now when that trip would happen is anybody's guess knowing my ever-changing work schedule.

I noticed on your profile that you live in the southern tier region of New York state. My father lives there as well (Cattaraugus County). I've visited him many times and spent summer and winter in that area. In general you'll find the west far different than where you live. Not a bad thing....just different. Our roads are generally in better shape as we don't have as harsh winters. The air here almost never gets heavy or as muggy feeling as I've experienced back east. Much 'fresher' here. The evergreens (Douglas Fir) stay green all year and we don't have that stark winter look so common back there.
Somebody mentioned that Seattle has hippies and such....kinda true. I would put it as liberal minded. I am the opposite and as such it can be trying at times. We do have many different groups here that can provide ample support no matter where you are on the spectrum. Portland, in my opinion, is even more progressive than Seattle. Anyway.....I'm rambling on an on here.
Take care.
 
Some of our friends who grew up nearby now live in Seattle and love it. Another lives in Palmdale, CA and doesn't like it so much. Plus I've always had a desire to visit the West Coast, so living/working there seems to be a good idea. Plus if my better half can find a job she likes, that makes things nicer. With the upcoming budget, NY is pretty bad for younger educators. At least Washington and Oregon have openings in our fields, compared to none here in NY.
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian

As a Bend-ite....who has lived here for over six years....and a retired Realtor....I must disagree with you regarding property prices. Prices have plumeted and are down to where you can purchase home at 2002 prices (I'm guessing 40 to 50% below what homes sold for in 07' & 08' highs)). There are real bargins out there...

I was basing my statement on what someone who's lived there for the past 3 years told me. But I just looked on MLS, and you're right... it seems like there are plenty of reasonably priced homes available there.
 
sciphi, Speaking as an outsider, I can say that after just one visit to Oregon (Portland), I can't wait to get back! After my visit there with the better half (she grew up there), I'm hooked and no longer have much (if any) urge to live in Iowa anymore.

I live just outside a small town (pop. 12500) that neighbors a bigger town and am accustomed to small town life. I was expecting a huge city and while it is huge, it doesn't "feel" huge. Like others have said, there are several little neighborhoods that don't feel "big".

Of course, the scenery is beautiful and your choice of recreation is no more than a few hours away.

As for weather, according to the wife, Portland isn't near as rainy as others say it is. In fact I can say that after talking to her mom who still lives there, that it's been pretty dry during the last couple of summers.
 
Yeah, the housing market in Bend has absolutely tanked, to the point where I've been looking at property to get as a rental--and possibly move there at some point.

I love Seattle, but the idea of somewhere with more sun has some appeal. The big issue there is the employment situation. Like a lot of the smaller cities in OR and WA, if you can find employment, there are some definite advantages over Seattle and Portland. There's no big university in Bend, which crosses it off the list for us r.e. employment for my wife. But it's a great place if you can get a job there.
 
We needed a change from the "southern Tier" of NY as well. Came here to VA Beach 6 years ago and never looked back. Sold the house and up and left. Simple as that. Started over again completely. I don't blame you one bit for wanting to leave.
If you are educators, you will not find the same pay or benefits level that you are currently getting in NY. I know for fact that there are thousands teachers in the state of NY that earn close to 6 digits a year, with incredible pension and health benefits. And thats not just near NYC, thats statewide where the economy sucks and you can pick up a 2500 sq ft house for 100k or less. Outside of NY it just doesn't happen.
But then again, I no longer pay $6000/year in property taxes to support the state and its school system.
So, if you want to get out of NY I applaud you. I think the left coast is a beautiful place as well. Good choice.
 
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