Let’s Talk 5W40 4T oils - New BMW R1300GS

[donnyj08]

My 2025 R1300GS is still on the Factory fill. The dealer will do the break in oil change at 500 or so miles as it’s included in the purchase of the bike. OEM spec for the 1300 Boxer is 5w40 API SL or better and JASO MA2 rated

The dealer will put in BMW Advantec Ultimate which is a light 40wt GTL based oil with a Moly and Boron Additive package. I’ll attached a VOA in Russian (sorry) it’s the only thing I could find that shows any data at all on the oil. Interesting Additive package for a JASO MA2 oil with high Moly and Boron.

After the “included” dealer fill I plan to get a GS-911 tool and do my own servicing as I always do on my bikes.

There are several good 5w40s on the market to choose from.

I typically use Amsoil and that is one of my top considerations here.

The LC1300 Boxer uses a Shift Cam engine and Finger Followers like many high performance bikes these days do.

The oils I’ve found to consider are

BMW Advantec Ultimate 5W40 - 3.6-3.8HTHS - (guess)
Amsoil Metric 5w40 - 4.3HTHS - published
Castrol Power 1 5w40 4T - 3.8HTHS (guess)
Motul 7100 5w40 3.8 HTHS -published
Spectro Platinum 4 5w40 3.8HTHS - (guess)


I’m leaning toward the Amsoil for valvetrain protection but considered the factory oil that’s formulated by Shell.

My hesitation with the Advantec is it seems thin for a DLC finger follower valvetrain engine. I also expect a 5w40 to have some shear in service as well.

I’ll likely do 3K mile oil changes.

Bike has a 3 year 36k mile warranty so I’ll probably not consider Rotella T6 while under warranty since it lacks the Gasoline certification and only has the JASO MA/MA2 certification.

 

[TimeFlies]

I've been using Motul 7100 in several bikes, and like it.
Good shifting, and quiet engines.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The oils I’ve found to consider are

BMW Advantec Ultimate 5W40 - 3.6-3.8HTHS - (guess)
Amsoil Metric 5w40 - 4.3HTHS - published
Castrol Power 1 5w40 4T - 3.8HTHS (guess)
Motul 7100 5w40 3.8 HTHS -published
Spectro Platinum 4 5w40 3.8HTHS - (guess)

I’m leaning toward the Amsoil for valvetrain protection but considered the factory oil that’s formulated by Shell.

My hesitation with the Advantec is it seems thin for a DLC finger follower valvetrain engine. I also expect a 5w40 to have some shear in service as well.

If you want the best wear protection go with the highest HTHS. That's not everything in terms of wear protection, but a large factor as viscosity is the main mitigator of wear by keeping moving parts better separated. The other factor is the AF/AW additives that form the tribofilm which mitigates wear on parts in boundary lubrication, like the valve train.

 

[donnyj08]

If you want the best wear protection go with the highest HTHS. That's not everything in terms of wear protection, but a large factor as viscosity is the main mitigator of wear by keeping moving parts better separated. The other factor is the AF/AW additives that form the tribofilm which mitigates wear on parts in boundary lubrication, like the valve train.

Right,

The OEM Advantec is a “light” GTL 5w40 but it has a very interesting high moly 170ppm, high boron 125ppm additive package that has moderate ZDDP. Im sure it’s a fantastic product as it’s a Shell product designed for BMW. The only downside I can see is being a Thin 5w40 in a shared sump it will shear and “Possibly” rely heavily on those additives to provide the wear protection between the cam and DLC followers.

The Amsoil has a much higher HTHS which for a finger follower valvetrain would give a greater boundary film between the cam and followers. I took this approach with the KTM 790 and it turned out well.

That said I realize that the BMW Boxer doesn’t have a common issues the KTM engine had and thus it may not matter at all to use the BMW oil that is “light” but with a very interesting additive package.

The Amsoil being 20% thicker will provide a greater film barrier, but it will also provide a higher parasitic drag and consequently more heat which will naturally negate “some” of the difference in film strength I would assume…

 

[Bonz]

My riding buddy has an R1200RT. 2015 model. He's been running Shell Rotella 5W-40 in that for almost 90,000 mi. Changes the tires and changes the oil. That's it.

IMO, 3,000 mile oil changes is throwing away oil that's just a little bit more than half used. I'd be going for 5,000 Mi oil changes no questions asked.

I do not understand what you mean by saying T6 does not have a gasoline certification as it is clearly JASO MA/MA2. Realistically there is no such thing as a non- gasoline powered motorcycle. That does not compute.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The Amsoil has a much higher HTHS which for a finger follower valvetrain would give a greater boundary film between the cam and followers. I took this approach with the KTM 790 and it turned out well.

That said I realize that the BMW Boxer doesn’t have a common issues the KTM engine had and thus it may not matter at all to use the BMW oil that is “light” but with a very interesting additive package.

The Amsoil being 20% thicker will provide a greater film barrier, but it will also provide a higher parasitic drag and consequently more heat which will naturally negate “some” of the difference in film strength I would assume…

Did you use the 10W-40 Amsoil in the KTM 790?

I wouldn't worry about "parasitic drag and more heat" because if there is a hair more it won't outweigh the added engine protection. Even if the slightly heavier oil ran 10-15 deg F more in the shearing film thickness, it's still going to be real time thicker between the moving parts than an oil with much less HTHS at a slightly less shearing rate. But here is what most don't realize. A thicker film thickness has less shearing, so it won't heat up as much as a thinner film thickness of oil under shear - so that makes the real time shearing temperature cancel out to some degree. I highly doubt you'd notice any real measurable increase in oil sump temperature running a higher HTHS oil on a water and/or oil cooled engine.

 

[Bonz]

The parasitic drag and loss of power with a heavier grade oil is nonsense. Yes, it is real however the real world implications are splitting the hair after already splitting the hair.

I agree with Zee, I'll take better film thickness within reason each and every time given all else more or less equal.

Difference between a light 5W-40 and a heavy 5w-40 can vary from batch to batch and I wouldn't even consider that in the equation.

 

[donnyj08]

Did you use the 10W-40 Amsoil in the KTM 790?

I wouldn't worry about "parasitic drag and more heat" because if there is a hair more it won't outweigh the added engine protection. Even if the slightly heavier oil ran 10-15 deg F more in the shearing film thickness, it's still going to be real time thicker between the moving parts than an oil with much less HTHS at a slightly less shearing rate. But here is what most don't realize. A thicker film thickness has less shearing, so it won't heat up as much as a thinner film thickness of oil under shear - so that makes the real time shearing temperature cancel out to some degree. I highly doubt you'd notice any real measurable increase in oil sump temperature running a higher HTHS oil on a water and/or oil cooled engine.

Good information. I actually ran the 15w50 Metric Amsoil in the KTM. The Factory recommendation on the KTM was 10w50 MA2

 

[ZeeOSix]

I’ll probably not consider Rotella T6 while under warranty since it lacks the Gasoline certification and only has the JASO MA/MA2 certification.

Back of the Rotella T6 15W-40 bottle says it's "SN", which is an API gasoline certification.

 

[Bonz]

Back of the Rotella T6 15W-40 bottle says its "SN", which is an API gasoline certification.

Precisely. And Jaso MA/MA2 apply to gasoline motorcycle engines, unless there is a fleet of diesel motorcycles I'm not aware of...

 

[donnyj08]

My riding buddy has an R1200RT. 2015 model. He's been running Shell Rotella 5W-40 in that for almost 90,000 mi. Changes the tires and changes the oil. That's it.

IMO, 3,000 mile oil changes is throwing away oil that's just a little bit more than half used. I'd be going for 5,000 Mi oil changes no questions asked.

I do not understand what you mean by saying T6 does not have a gasoline certification as it is clearly JASO MA/MA2. Realistically there is no such thing as a non- gasoline powered motorcycle. That does not compute.

There are non gasoline powered motorcycles. There actually is a Diesel KLR . Rare, but it exists!

My point on the Rotella was that while under warranty I’m ruling it out since it doesn’t meet MA2 as well as SL or better. To be clear this is simply as a matter of “compliance” by the book while under warranty. I realize Rotella will work perfectly fine as will any of the oils I’m considering.

But this is BITOG so we split the Hairs…that’s the “almost” whole point of this site!

In fact Mobil 1 10w40 would probably be an oil that would make the most sense in almost every 40wt MC application, but it won’t meet my warranty requirements.

 

[Hermann]

used the Castrol 4T 5W-40 in my 1991 F900xr. Once I started using it the quick shifter worked 200% better. The motor was quieter especially the valvetrain.

 

[donnyj08]

Back of the Rotella T6 15W-40 bottle says it's "SN", which is an API gasoline certification.

Hmm Interesting. I looked at a jug of 5w40 T6 at Walmart this weekend and it didn’t have an “SN” on it, just MA/MA2

 

[Bonz]

Okay, talking about splitting hairs with non sequitur. KLR diesel. Let's keep it real.

I do see API Services CK-4, no SN on the back of the jug. However JASO MA/MA2 is a de facto representation it is suitable for a gasoline bike.

 

[ZeeOSix]

^^^ To add ... the Rotella T6 in 5W-40 and 10W-30 do not show the API SN rating. Only the T6 15W-40 does.

And the T6 10W-30 does not show the JASO MA/MA2 rating or the SN rating. Sure you wouldn't run 10W-30 anyway.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Hmm Interesting. I looked at a jug of 5w40 T6 at Walmart this weekend and it didn’t have an “SN” on it, just MA/MA2

See post above ... only 15W-40 in T6 is "SN".

 

[donnyj08]

Okay, talking about splitting hairs with non sequitur. KLR diesel. Let's keep it real.

I do see API Services CK-4, no SN on the back of the jug. However JASO MA/MA2 is a de facto representation it is suitable for a gasoline bike.

Oh come on, laugh a little man!

Regardless, I’ll likely rule out the Rotella based on its Foaming performance in a shared sump bike. It’s not really that much cheaper per OCI than other Motorcycle specific oils.

I just don’t see a benefit in Using T6 in my application VS the Castrol power 1 4T which is pretty much the same cost.

 

[donnyj08]

^^^ To add ... the Rotella T6 in 5W-40 and 10W-30 do not show the API SN rating. Only the T6 15W-40 does.

And the T6 10W-30 does not show the JASO MA/MA2 rating or the SN rating. Sure you wouldn't run 10W-30 anyway.

Thanks for that Clarification. I didn’t look at the 15w40 version.

 

[Bonz]

I was trying to keep it light by saying unless there are a fleet of diesels we don't know about. There were barely 200 of them made.

In any case, choose the oil you want, I suspect you already had your mind made up of one of the choices you shared in the first post, and are looking for validation to set your mind at ease.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I just don’t see a benefit in Using T6 in my application VS the Castrol power 1 4T which is pretty much the same cost.

I've used the Castrol Power 1 10W-40 in the XSR900. Works pretty well.