Kia optima sx 2.0 GDI turbo 5w-40

[timur38]

Hi everyone, I recently picked up a new car and plan to start using 5w-40 with OCI up to 5k miles. Kia dealer will do all the oil changes I will bring my oil. Can you please advise me what approved oils can I use that meet at least the following specs ACEA A5, ACEA A3, API SM, ILSAC GF-4. After reading the forum I'm thinking about Pennzoil Platinum Euro SAE 5W-40 or Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Improved ESP Synthetic Motor Oil but I'm not sure if they are good and approved for my car. Thanks!

 

[RooflessVW]

Just pick up one of the Euro 0W-40 oils from Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, or Valvoline. All are A3/B4 with a ton of other tough approvals.

 

[WhizkidTN]

I have the '12 Optima SX 2.0L (tuned and all). See my signature line for what I run now. I think the PP would be fine as well. Just seems that the Castrol Edge fits the bill for me.

 

[FermeLaPorte]

Go 0w40

 

[wemay]

I'm now buying STP Euro 5W-40 (ACEA A3-B4 / API SN) from Auto Zone, for our 2.0T SFS. $26 for 5qts. AZ often has combo sales where this oil plus a M1 or STP Extended Life oil filter will cost $29 For a viscosity in the Owners Manual, can't beat it.

 

[addyguy]

Any 5W-40 or 0W-40 would work well, as others have said.

 

[timur38]

I can't use 0w-40 because it's not approved for my engine and I'd like to maintain 10 years warranty. What is the best oil out of 5w-40? Thanks

 

[Garak]

The Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 you suggested would work just fine, being A3/B4 and the current API specification.

 

[jgscott]

I had a Thread about this same Kia Optima and motor. 2015 model. I was advised to make sure I was using a Dexos 1 Gen 2 because of the LSPI issues with those motors?

 

[Charlie2015]

Is there a widely available ACEA A5 oil in the USA?

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015

Is there a widely available ACEA A5 oil in the USA?

Offhand, I know that Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 is A5/B5...I'm sure there are plenty of others.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015

Is there a widely available ACEA A5 oil in the USA?

Only PP and VFS (per their website). I wouldn't concern myself too much concerning that recommendation, where A5/B5 is referened, they also say "or above". That can be interpreted many ways, i.e., as A1/B1 or A3/B4 as far as the average consumer that cares very little about oil is concerned. Nor do they offer an explanation.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: wemay

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015

Is there a widely available ACEA A5 oil in the USA?

Only PP and VFS (per their website). I wouldn't concern myself too much concerning that recommendation, where A5/B5 is referened, they also say "or above". That can be interpreted many ways, i.e., as A1/B1 or A3/B4 as far as the average consumer that cares very little about oil is concerned. Nor do they offer an explanation.

I didn't realize they were so rare here...thanks for the correction!

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: jgscott

I had a Thread about this same Kia Optima and motor. 2015 model. I was advised to make sure I was using a Dexos 1 Gen 2 because of the LSPI issues with those motors?

The OPer started off by saying he wanted to run a 5W40, so I didn't see a point in bringing up d1G2 as that grade is not covered by that standard.

 

[timur38]

I changed oil to PP 5w-40 few days ago and immediately noticed engine rattling at cord start. I also read that PP is not the best oil for the money. I plan to change it to motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 and send it to the lab next time. If the results are good I will stick with that oil. Otherwise, I will try Amsoil 5w-40 AFL. Thanks.

 

[Garak]

I don't mean to be argumentative, but if PP is not the best oil for the money, I'm not sure you'll improve your ROI by going to Motul.

 

[69Torino]

Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN

I have the '12 Optima SX 2.0L (tuned and all). See my signature line for what I run now. I think the PP would be fine as well. Just seems that the Castrol Edge fits the bill for me.

Sorry I'm late to the party on this post (10 days ago) but I thought it worthy of mentioning that I've replaced more than a handful of tuned 2.0 Theta T-GDI engines due to melting the ring lands off of piston #2. It begins by customer complaining of running rough and check engine light on. Cause is melting the ground electrode off the spark plug in cylinder #2. I put a plug in it and suggest the tune be removed. Customer then comes back a predictable amount of time later with lots of leakdown in #2. These ECU tunes tend to lean out cylinder 2 because # 2 is a straight shot from the throttle body to the head in the intake manifold. 2016 2.0 T-GDI intake manifold redesign has corrected this "design feature". These engines will lean out #2 in bone stock trim, and a hotter boost map will only exacerbate the problem. I can tell when there is a tune on the car because the ECU ROM ID reads XXXXXXXXXX instead of a serial number, and there are several PID's in Live Data that are obviously fudged numbers. Just a courteous advisement to Hyundai/Kia 2.0 T-GDI owners, especially 2011-2015 model years. 0w-40 or 5w-40 will not prevent this. 274 horsepower out of a Kia 2.0 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder is near the durability limit to begin with. May the odds be ever in your favor.

 

[jgscott]

Originally Posted By: 69Torino

Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN

I have the '12 Optima SX 2.0L (tuned and all). See my signature line for what I run now. I think the PP would be fine as well. Just seems that the Castrol Edge fits the bill for me.

Sorry I'm late to the party on this post (10 days ago) but I thought it worthy of mentioning that I've replaced more than a handful of tuned 2.0 Theta T-GDI engines due to melting the ring lands off of piston #2. It begins by customer complaining of running rough and check engine light on. Cause is melting the ground electrode off the spark plug in cylinder #2. I put a plug in it and suggest the tune be removed. Customer then comes back a predictable amount of time later with lots of leakdown in #2. These ECU tunes tend to lean out cylinder 2 because # 2 is a straight shot from the throttle body to the head in the intake manifold. 2016 2.0 T-GDI intake manifold redesign has corrected this "design feature". These engines will lean out #2 in bone stock trim, and a hotter boost map will only exacerbate the problem. I can tell when there is a tune on the car because the ECU ROM ID reads XXXXXXXXXX instead of a serial number, and there are several PID's in Live Data that are obviously fudged numbers. Just a courteous advisement to Hyundai/Kia 2.0 T-GDI owners, especially 2011-2015 model years. 0w-40 or 5w-40 will not prevent this. 274 horsepower out of a Kia 2.0 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder is near the durability limit to begin with. May the odds be ever in your favor.

Thanks. A few questions? I thought the 2015 was kinda revised? And are some of the 2.0T & 2.4 problems, not also due to the crank metal shaving problem also? Not saying increased Boost or ECU tunes may not have added to it. So what oil would you run?

 

[69Torino]

Yes, 2015 is revised internally. Connecting rods and bearings. Thus the Theta II connecting rod bearing recall is not applicable to 2015 models. Everything bolted to the outside of the 2015 engines are the same, intake and exhaust manifolds etc. Metal shavings are the result of the affected engines' flawed assembly, not the cause. It has been hypothesized among factory training center instructors and several Kia Master Techs (myself included), the problem is that selective size connecting rod bearings are used in these engines and the wrong size (thickness) were selected at assembly. I've torn down dozens of these engines after failure, and all of the failures are due to excessive connecting rod clearance. Hope this info helps. As far as oil selection, our dealership has used Valvoline Full Synthetic in both 5w-20 and 5w-30 for quite some time now to service all Kia and Mitsubishi cars. I personally use this in my 2015 Optima 2.4 lease, with a K&N HP-1004 oil filter and in my 2003 Mercury Marauder with a Ford Racing Performance Parts FL820S filter. This oil carries Dexos1 Gen2 approval for what it's worth. On another note, when Theta engines are replaced under the SC147 connecting rod recall, Kia mandates the use of Mobil conventional 5W-30 as the break in oil, in both the 2.0 Turbo and the 2.4. They keep track of this by sending it to us in 55 gallon drums and warranty admin requires it to be charged to the repair order when the engine connecting rod inspection or engine replacement is completed. So Kia likes and/or requires Mobil conventional 5w-30 to be in there at least one time. Kia does not require our bulk oil to meet any specs besides API current spec, but our service manager is an ex General Motors service advisor and prefers to carry Dexos approved oil in bulk, for which I do not blame him. Typically the cars that come to us with either a locked up engine or a connecting rod hammering have NOT been serviced exclusively by our dealership and either have no oil change sticker in the window, or a Jiffy Lube, Wal-Mart or Firestone sticker, and some aftermarket version of the downsized PH6607 equivalent oil filter. (Smaller Nissan Filter that aftermarket TLE places use interchangeably with the proper, larger PH9688 equivalent). Probably because it's cheaper. So I would venture a guess that most of the engines replaced are also mistreated to some degree. Sorry for the very wordy answer, but in conclusion I would, and do in fact use Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w-20 in mine and my customers' cars.

 

[timur38]

Thanks 69Torino, so there are no advantages of using 5w-40 in 2.0 turbo engine?