JT20's Subaru

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I don't think it will be too big of a deal if you run it as is. Engines ran with carburetors that overfueled for years. Maybe just stick to 3000 mile intervals. This is why I was against the wrong engine swap in the start. Getting an EJ25 to work is a lot less work and cost.

Who originally pushed you into the 2.0L swap?

Yup, and the problem is that correcting it appears to approach the value of the car, so there's no easy workaround here. It doesn't appear to be like a Fox Mustang where you can relatively easily convert it to MAF with a chunk of harness, junkyard ECM and some fancy soldering.
 
Yup, and the problem is that correcting it appears to approach the value of the car, so there's no easy workaround here. It doesn't appear to be like a Fox Mustang where you can relatively easily convert it to MAF with a chunk of harness, junkyard ECM and some fancy soldering.

I mean,.

In some kind of extreme case.. maybe an EJ25 (Has to be something special about it. New, rebuilt, comes with its ECU for tuned, something) can go in.

I took the other job, OVERKILL.

And I drove about 200 miles today, another 200 by monday... got the Fram on it.. woo hoo..
 
Yup, and the problem is that correcting it appears to approach the value of the car, so there's no easy workaround here. It doesn't appear to be like a Fox Mustang where you can relatively easily convert it to MAF with a chunk of harness, junkyard ECM and some fancy soldering.

If you want to know why I came up with outside idea in above post, I would elaborate.
 
Yup, and the problem is that correcting it appears to approach the value of the car, so there's no easy workaround here. It doesn't appear to be like a Fox Mustang where you can relatively easily convert it to MAF with a chunk of harness, junkyard ECM and some fancy soldering.

Wonder if there's a possibility of swapping on a differently calibrated MAP sensor? With the old RENIX 4.0 Cherokees you can change out to a GM sensor and it will read a more broad spectrum and allow the computer to properly fuel you for boost.

It's just returning a voltage depending on the amount of vacuum present. I'm sure there's some sensor out there that would read the correct voltage so the computer would be fueling properly for a 2.0L engine over a 2.5L engine.

But the amount of time it would take to find that sensor, adapt it to both the mounting location and the wiring would make it 100% not worth it.
 
Wonder if there's a possibility of swapping on a differently calibrated MAP sensor? With the old RENIX 4.0 Cherokees you can change out to a GM sensor and it will read a more broad spectrum and allow the computer to properly fuel you for boost.

It's just returning a voltage depending on the amount of vacuum present. I'm sure there's some sensor out there that would read the correct voltage so the computer would be fueling properly for a 2.0L engine over a 2.5L engine.

But the amount of time it would take to find that sensor, adapt it to both the mounting location and the wiring would make it 100% not worth it.

I mean....

Is there a way I can voltage test this thing?

Should I get alligator clips for my DVOM?

If foolery will correct the issue (even somewhat) let's do it, I want my MPGs back.. got 20MPG two days ago and 23MPG today so I may as well be driving a Blazer or J30 so let's do it, I'm not out ahead yet I'm just on the road to it and I've been given the Green flag...

And I'm Racer X...
 
I was thinking maybe changing to a smaller injector same PW on less GPH should lean it out IF there’s a problem seems like vast majority just drive them.

I think he shouldn’t mess with it... it’s a rabbit hole...

But if it was mine and I felt I had to mess with it trying to put a MAF system on it would be my route... at least that’s where I’d concentrate my research if in fact some of these had MAF.
 
I was thinking maybe changing to a smaller injector same PW on less GPH should lean it out IF there’s a problem seems like vast majority just drive them.

I think he shouldn’t mess with it... it’s a rabbit hole...

But if it was mine and I felt I had to mess with it trying to put a MAF system on it would be my route... at least that’s where I’d concentrate my research if in fact some of these had MAF.

So let's circle back.. you think the EJ20 ECU "wouldn't even work" as-is??

I wonder if I really can get a Cobb port on mine. I never was able to look, I work so much now I have to budget every hour...
 
So let's circle back.. you think the EJ20 ECU "wouldn't even work" as-is??

The short answer is "No, i do not think it will work" in fact i'm almost certain it won't.

The only thing it might do for you after a truckload of "ifs" all going your way is let someone pull a base map to start with and i'd lay odds on that about 95% against it working.

I was going to bring up Fox mustangs... its true a lot of them get converted to MAF and thats the way to more extensive mods, but there also a group thats learned what they can get away with. I feel like this swap falls into the category of the group having basically figured out they can get away with it, go with the wisdom of the group.

There are some other things i was thinking about but i don't really have time to go into it, in detail - it might not even be the case here but - one of those guys found the EJ20 already had the right cam and crank pulley which got me to wondering if its along the lines of a 5.0 into a Ranger, which is to say if you're going to swap a 5.0 into a Ranger, you're looking at particular years of Explorer motors depending on what year your Ranger is... even if it is that way - figuring it out across the ocean and getting what you need is going to be a life's work.
 
The short answer is "No, i do not think it will work" in fact i'm almost certain it won't.

The only thing it might do for you after a truckload of "ifs" all going your way is let someone pull a base map to start with and i'd lay odds on that about 95% against it working.

I was going to bring up Fox mustangs... its true a lot of them get converted to MAF and thats the way to more extensive mods, but there also a group thats learned what they can get away with. I feel like this swap falls into the category of the group having basically figured out they can get away with it, go with the wisdom of the group.

There are some other things i was thinking about but i don't really have time to go into it, in detail - it might not even be the case here but - one of those guys found the EJ20 already had the right cam and crank pulley which got me to wondering if its along the lines of a 5.0 into a Ranger, which is to say if you're going to swap a 5.0 into a Ranger, you're looking at particular years of Explorer motors depending on what year your Ranger is... even if it is that way - figuring it out across the ocean and getting what you need is going to be a life's work.

Respectfully, I'm short on time ATM but there is another thing I keep thinking about. It is about the guy that put an EJ22 in his EJ25 car. He says he literally grinded off the top half of the ??? Too of the engine? Manifold??? And welded his thing with all his EJ25 stuff... and it ran really well. I'll look for that too.

Whatever the easiest thing to do is. The car runs well, but my MPGs are low.. like, Chevy Blazer low.
 
This isn't that one but.... .

Wow I wish someone would/could base fuel map this thing.

 
I may need to fire up my computer at home, I was going through videos rapidly when I saw it.

Older ? guy, talking about how he made his EJ22 work in an EJ25 Legacy Outback, which he was especially proud of because one is DOHC and one is SOHC, IIRC. Its been months.
 
Screenshot_20210129-181025_YouTube.webp
 
^ And yeah the video in Post #172 was the one I was seeking.

The EJ20.. just getting the fuel good and it should reflect in MPGs...
 
Respectfully, I'm short on time ATM ...

Me too, Me too.
My advice is:

First figure out if you have an actual problem and if it is a significant problem. Don't change the oil, just monitor it for rising levels or distinct smell of fuel. once you get a reasonable amount of miles on it pull a sample and have it tested to see if if has an inordinate amount of fuel in it.

If it does then set about figuring out why, is it the tune, or does it have leaking injectors or some other issue.

If it does not then keep trucking...

Thats my two cents.
 
Wonder if there's a possibility of swapping on a differently calibrated MAP sensor? With the old RENIX 4.0 Cherokees you can change out to a GM sensor and it will read a more broad spectrum and allow the computer to properly fuel you for boost.

It's just returning a voltage depending on the amount of vacuum present. I'm sure there's some sensor out there that would read the correct voltage so the computer would be fueling properly for a 2.0L engine over a 2.5L engine.

But the amount of time it would take to find that sensor, adapt it to both the mounting location and the wiring would make it 100% not worth it.

That's a bit of a rig though, but maybe a resistor mod or something so that WOT isn't WOT? That would lean it out a bit, but the risk would be that you'd lean it out where vacuum was high, which is where it doesn't need leaning out, it would need to be some sort of mod where the impact is the highest near WOT and tapers off as vacuum increases.
 
I was thinking maybe changing to a smaller injector same PW on less GPH should lean it out IF there’s a problem seems like vast majority just drive them.

I think he shouldn’t mess with it... it’s a rabbit hole...

But if it was mine and I felt I had to mess with it trying to put a MAF system on it would be my route... at least that’s where I’d concentrate my research if in fact some of these had MAF.

Yup, just wish it was as simple and well documented as on the EEC-IV Ford stuff, I've done two MAF conversions on that system and it's quite straight-forward for the most part.

MAF would be ideal, it would just "work".

If he downsized injectors he risks leaning it out at low load where fuelling requirements are lower and the maps will be closer.
 
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