JASO Wet Clutch Additive?

[Right-Handed Neutrino]

So I goofed up. I purchased four 2L canisters of Motul V300 Racing Line 10W-40 for my 2014 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 ABS. I bought I was buying the V300 4T. I usually run Kawasaki synthetic with a Kawi filter, but switched to Hi-Flo filter and Motul. 4 cans of this ran me $160. I just noticed on the can it said Car Racing Oil. I thought. Hmm. That's odd.
So I just listed the bike up for sale. It's been meticulously maintained & only 8500 miles. I'm 38 and too old for a supersport. Getting me a hypernaked.

So I took the bike out a couple weeks ago and the bike ran fine. I would have noticed if the clutch was slipping. I mean, I didn't WOT it, but a good 80% throttle several times. It was the longest ride I had on the bike in a while.

So my questions are... will it be OK till the next oil change? I always changed my oil at the end of the year, so 8500 miles & (2014) 10 oil changes lol I noticed today it was about half a quart low so I filled it with some Kawasaki Synthetic. There's definitely some wet clutch friction modifiers in there now. I hope I'm using that term right. I did some reading on the forum ahead of time prior to posting this. Lastly, are there any JASO certified additives I can use?
Now I don't know what to use the remaining 2 cans of oil for now. Guess I'll sell them?

 

[ZeeOSix]

I bought I was buying the V300 4T. I usually run Kawasaki synthetic with a Kawi filter, but switched to Hi-Flo filter and Motul. 4 cans of this ran me $160. I just noticed on the can it said Car Racing Oil.

Wow, $160 for how much oil? What specs are on the oil container? Any "meets JASO xxx" words?

I've never heard of any additives that make regular oil JASO spec oil. JASO spec oil has less friction modifier additives. If the clutch isn't noticably slipping then you'll probably be fine until the next oil change.

 

[SuperSalad]

No to the additives question. I suppose somewhere in the wild wide world, there is something like that, but the effort to find it wouldn't be worth the effort.

Doing an oil change with the right oil will go a very long way to correcting it. If you wanted to be extremely cautious, you could do another change after a short time running the engine. Two oil changes should be more than enough to remove/dilute any problem friction modifiers causing the slippage.

 

[Right-Handed Neutrino]

Doesn't have any JASO certification on the container. This is what I got.
$40 x's 4 = $160

 

[twX]

If the bike has good clutch feel, and the clutch doesn't slip at WOT, the oil is probably fine for continued use, but there's a chance your next motorcycle won't like it so much. I'd sell it and get something more suitable. Car racing oil will normally have a lot of friction modifier.

At 850 miles per year, I'd go 2-3 years between oil changes.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

My riding partner Marv is also known as Mr.Kawasaki... he prefers Motul 300V 5W30 in both of his homologated race bikes... namely 94 ZX7R and 2021 ZX10RR... Marv doesn't in moderation and yet reports no clutch problems related to oil...

My friend Joey works for Motul and reports "there is no additive in the 300V that will defeat a wet clutch in good working order."

 

[Right-Handed Neutrino]

My riding partner Marv is also known as Mr.Kawasaki... he prefers Motul 300V 5W30 in both of his homologated race bikes... namely 94 ZX7R and 2021 ZX10RR... Marv doesn't in moderation and yet reports no clutch problems related to oil...

My friend Joey works for Motul and reports "there is no additive in the 300V that will defeat a wet clutch in good working order."

I'm sure he runs Motul V300 4t and not the V300 Car Racing Oil I accidentally bought. The V300 4T is JASO MA2 Certified

 

[Mackelroy]

Mild clutch slippage systems normally happen full throttle under load, or thats how to test it, uphill /full throttle, and your tallest Gear , which loads the clutch the most.

 

[KrisZ]

There is no such thing as wet clutch friction modifiers for motorcycles. JASO is simply a test of the oil. If it passes the test it gets the stamp, if it doesn’t it won’t.

 

[BigCahuna]

When I had my kawasaki voyager, the manual said that you can use any mineral, blended, or synthetic oil you like. It doesn't say to only use their branded oil. Apparently they don't care which is used. It does say to use a JASO ma 2 rated oil or, an oil that carries the SL Api rating. The oil in the bike is used to lube the engine and the transmission. I haven't read or heard about any Kawasaki's having clutch problems, after reading several Kawasaki web sites. They also say that's it's recommended to use 10w40 weight oil year round. I'm guessing that's because the engine is water cooled. I have seen where guys have used 20w50 wt in their bikes. The manual says you can use that oil, but mostly if the bike is going to be used in hot areas, like Las Vegas. Nobody reported clutch issues that couldn't be corrected by flushing / bleeding the clutch master cylinder.,,

 

[ZeeOSix]

View attachment 213870

What's in the tube he's holding?

 

[KrisZ]

What's in the tube he's holding?

Looks like the motul chain grease/paste to me.

 

[Right-Handed Neutrino]

There is no such thing as wet clutch friction modifiers for motorcycles. JASO is simply a test of the oil. If it passes the test it gets the stamp, if it doesn’t it won't.

Thanks for the clarification. It helps

 

[Right-Handed Neutrino]

When I had my kawasaki voyager, the manual said that you can use any mineral, blended, or synthetic oil you like. It doesn't say to only use their branded oil. Apparently they don't care which is used. It does say to use a JASO ma 2 rated oil or, an oil that carries the SL Api rating. The oil in the bike is used to lube the engine and the transmission. I haven't read or heard about any Kawasaki's having clutch problems, after reading several Kawasaki web sites. They also say that's it's recommended to use 10w40 weight oil year round. I'm guessing that's because the engine is water cooled. I have seen where guys have used 20w50 wt in their bikes. The manual says you can use that oil, but mostly if the bike is going to be used in hot areas, like Las Vegas. Nobody reported clutch issues that couldn't be corrected by flushing / bleeding the clutch master cylinder.,,

Yeah, this isn't JASO certified. Doesn't have the certification anywhere on it. Yes, my bike is water-cooled; 2014 ZX-6R. Its has a cable-operated slipper-clutch with assist, so no clutch hydraulic fluid athough I don't know what bleeding that would do. It's the engine oil I would need to drain & replace.
I'll download the Tech & Certification sheet and see if any are JASO/MA2 compliant is in it. What chemicals/elements

With it not having any problems so far after putting 30 miles on it. I think the clutches being soaked in factory Kawasaki synthetic 10W-40 for the past 10 years has left whatever properties it needs for the clutch to keep from slipping.

I'm going to take it out probably tomorrow or Wednesday (only days it's 80° and not wind blowing 40mph.) I'll make sure to go WOT going uphill and see if there's any slippage.

And I do live in a hot climate. I'm in OKC. But I'm getting too old to be wearing full gear, including a black AStars leather jacket and riding when it's 100°+.

This is the bike incase anyone is interested. She's for sale!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yeah, this isn't JASO certified. Doesn't have the certification anywhere on it. Yes, my bike is water-cooled; 2014 ZX-6R. Its has a cable-operated slipper-clutch with assist, so no clutch hydraulic fluid athough I don't know what bleeding that would do. It's the engine oil I would need to drain & replace.
I'll download the Tech & Certification sheet and see if any are JASO/MA2 compliant is in it. What chemicals/elements

If it doesn't say anything about JASO on the bottle or something about "wet clutch compatible", then spec sheet for the oil probably won't say it either. Bike looks nice.

 

[KrisZ]

With it not having any problems so far after putting 30 miles on it. I think the clutches being soaked in factory Kawasaki synthetic 10W-40 for the past 10 years has left whatever properties it needs for the clutch to keep from slipping.

Nice looking bike

I don’t think you understand just yet.
The oil is there to provide cooling and actually reduces the friction when the clutch is disengaged so that the clutch pack doesn’t overheat and wear out the clutches prematurely. Motorcycle clutch pack design doesn’t guarantee equal separation of the plates when you pull in the clutch lever. Some may stay engaged and if there was no lubricant, they would burn up or simply wear out prematurely.

JASO test simply ensures that the additives in the oil don’t interfere with the friction the plates generate.

Your clutch doesn’t slip because there is some residual additive from the Kawasaki oil, it doesn’t slip because your current oil doesn’t have anything in it to make it slip.

I’ve used generic diesel oils for years that were not JASO rated and I never had issues with wet clutches. Not saying it cannot happen, but JASO is not some holy grail of oil for wet clutches like the internet makes it out to be.

 

[thastinger]

I would be worried about the Moly level if it is 700+ like above. The good news is that it takes a while to saturate the clutch frictions with it, it doesn't do immediate damage. I would drain it.

 

[Jay Freddy]

Add my voice to the drain ASAP and fill with an appropriate oil. I have no proof nor personal experience to back this up, but I have read that wet clutches don't like ester oils.

At the very least, tell the new owner that it needs an oil change since it accidentally got filled with car oil.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Auto Oil is serviceable... ride as is...

There is no such thing as "for wet clutch" oil... given that motorcycles are small
part of the main oil market share our motorcycle oil is chiefly reformulated Auto
oil... In fact we don't find sufficient differences in additive package between
Mobil 1 Auto (80% market share) or Mobil 1 4T MC (10% market share)...
However due to low quantities major difference is cost...

Here are virgin oil samples of $4.89 a quart Mobil 1 Auto Oil 10W40
and $9.98 a quart Mobil 4T Motorcycle specific oil... the additive packages
are so similar that our wet clutch wouldn't know the difference...

Technically speaking mileage not additives is the cause of our clutches to loose
grip...

 

[ZeeOSix]

There is no such thing as "for wet clutch" oil...

This must stem back to the "Oil is Oil" thread in the PCMO forum, lol.

If I was selling that bike, I'd just go to Walmart and get some Valvoline 4T motorcycle oil and change the oil before selling it. I've used it for many years in many motorcycles and it worked well, even in the Hayabusa.