Is there any reason I should NOT run 5w20 in 2011-
- Thread starter dwcopple
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You will hear as many reasons that it will be fine as reasons that you'll surely spin bearings. You'll find no consensus on this.
I'd stick with the 5W30.
I don't see why not. The manuals for my '14 & '15 Dodge say 5w20 is spec'd, but 5w30 can be used if 20w isn't available. I don't see why the reverse would cause an issue in an earlier pentastar. It's been mentioned on here before that the switch from 30w to a 20w was done for CAFE standards.
Call your local Dodge service department, see what their take on it is.
Edit: if you're still under the 100k power train warranty, I would stick with the 30w.
Call your local Dodge service department, see what their take on it is.
Edit: if you're still under the 100k power train warranty, I would stick with the 30w.
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
You will hear as many reasons that it will be fine as reasons that you'll surely spin bearings. You'll find no consensus on this.
Mostly this. I would run either 30 or 20, as long as both are quality oils.
You will hear as many reasons that it will be fine as reasons that you'll surely spin bearings. You'll find no consensus on this.
Mostly this. I would run either 30 or 20, as long as both are quality oils.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Pentastar? My oil cap says 5w30 but I know the newer ones are spec'd to 5w20. Any issue with me running 5w20 in the winter oil change?
It's coming into winter down here, summer up there, so not sure why this is on your radar.
The "winter" rating is the "W" spec of your oil, so not sure why you are interested in changing the operating range viscosity next winter, but not the winter spec.
As to reasons why you shouldn't do it...what are your reasons for wanting to do it ?
Pentastar? My oil cap says 5w30 but I know the newer ones are spec'd to 5w20. Any issue with me running 5w20 in the winter oil change?
It's coming into winter down here, summer up there, so not sure why this is on your radar.
The "winter" rating is the "W" spec of your oil, so not sure why you are interested in changing the operating range viscosity next winter, but not the winter spec.
As to reasons why you shouldn't do it...what are your reasons for wanting to do it ?
Is there any benefit to running a 0w20? Not the lower 48 there isn't.
+ 72,000
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
You will hear as many reasons that it will be fine as reasons that you'll surely spin bearings. You'll find no consensus on this.
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
You will hear as many reasons that it will be fine as reasons that you'll surely spin bearings. You'll find no consensus on this.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Pentastar? My oil cap says 5w30 but I know the newer ones are spec'd to 5w20. Any issue with me running 5w20 in the winter oil change?
It's coming into winter down here, summer up there, so not sure why this is on your radar.
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Pentastar? My oil cap says 5w30 but I know the newer ones are spec'd to 5w20. Any issue with me running 5w20 in the winter oil change?
It's coming into winter down here, summer up there, so not sure why this is on your radar.
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
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Xw20 is too thin, it's actually of such low viscosity that it weighs less than an equal volume of air at 1 bar.
Acknowledging that fact should help you see that it's actually better to run an engine without any oil than to run it with a 20, because the thicker air provides more protection for your bearings.
SAE 60 is probably your best choice for the winter
Acknowledging that fact should help you see that it's actually better to run an engine without any oil than to run it with a 20, because the thicker air provides more protection for your bearings.
SAE 60 is probably your best choice for the winter
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I thought about doing the same in our 2012, but the engine seems so happy with the 5w30 I don't want to disturb the force.
I can't see mileage improving significantly when we can get 28mpg on a highway trip.
I can't see mileage improving significantly when we can get 28mpg on a highway trip.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
while in the humour section...how exactly does 5W20 differ from 5W30 at -40 without windchill.
And while still in the humour section, explain how those oils (and the sump in which they are contained) respond to windchill (they don't...can't get cooler than the dry bulb temperature ever)...and how your -51C with windchill helps the OP's request regarding operating viscosity (the 20 versus 30 part).
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
while in the humour section...how exactly does 5W20 differ from 5W30 at -40 without windchill.
And while still in the humour section, explain how those oils (and the sump in which they are contained) respond to windchill (they don't...can't get cooler than the dry bulb temperature ever)...and how your -51C with windchill helps the OP's request regarding operating viscosity (the 20 versus 30 part).
If you're past warranty there shouldn't be any problem running the 20grade in winter. The engineers that designed that car came up with 5w-30....and it's on the oil fill cap. That's what I would stay with.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Xw20 is too thin, it's actually of such low viscosity that it weighs less than an equal volume of air at 1 bar.
Acknowledging that fact should help you see that it's actually better to run an engine without any oil than to run it with a 20, because the thicker air provides more protection for your bearings.
SAE 60 is probably your best choice for the winter
Xw20 is too thin, it's actually of such low viscosity that it weighs less than an equal volume of air at 1 bar.
Acknowledging that fact should help you see that it's actually better to run an engine without any oil than to run it with a 20, because the thicker air provides more protection for your bearings.
SAE 60 is probably your best choice for the winter
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
My oil cap says 5w30......
The oil cap always knows best. Unless specified by the manufacturer elsewhere, I'd stick to 5w-30.
My oil cap says 5w30......
The oil cap always knows best. Unless specified by the manufacturer elsewhere, I'd stick to 5w-30.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Danno
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
while in the humour section...how exactly does 5W20 differ from 5W30 at -40 without windchill.
And while still in the humour section, explain how those oils (and the sump in which they are contained) respond to windchill (they don't...can't get cooler than the dry bulb temperature ever)...and how your -51C with windchill helps the OP's request regarding operating viscosity (the 20 versus 30 part).
Well said Shannow. It's a common misconception here in the Great White North, though it's simple physics when people think about it.
For my northern brethren: our human bodies feel windchill because we're producing heat to keep our core body temperature in a narrow range. Faster wind velocity will remove heat from our body surface area at a faster rate than slower wind or no wind. We've all experienced this. Being outside on a sunny wind-free day at -30°C can be surprisingly pleasant. For anything not generating internal heat, windchill doesn't matter in the long term. Let's drive two identical cars to heat up their engines to the same degree. Park one outside on a windy day, one in an unheated garage. The engine exposed to wind will cool off at a faster rate, no question. But after several hours of being outside they're both at the same temp, the ambient temp. An engine can't get colder than ambient.
The only small issue is if you've plugged in a block heater. You're trying to raise the engine temp above ambient, so the car parked outside in the wind will not warm to the same temp as the one in the garage. But otherwise, windchill for vehicles don't matter.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Mods, please move this to humour section.
Let me know when you get to - 40 C without windchill.
We hit - 51 C with windchill last Feb.
while in the humour section...how exactly does 5W20 differ from 5W30 at -40 without windchill.
And while still in the humour section, explain how those oils (and the sump in which they are contained) respond to windchill (they don't...can't get cooler than the dry bulb temperature ever)...and how your -51C with windchill helps the OP's request regarding operating viscosity (the 20 versus 30 part).
Well said Shannow. It's a common misconception here in the Great White North, though it's simple physics when people think about it.
For my northern brethren: our human bodies feel windchill because we're producing heat to keep our core body temperature in a narrow range. Faster wind velocity will remove heat from our body surface area at a faster rate than slower wind or no wind. We've all experienced this. Being outside on a sunny wind-free day at -30°C can be surprisingly pleasant. For anything not generating internal heat, windchill doesn't matter in the long term. Let's drive two identical cars to heat up their engines to the same degree. Park one outside on a windy day, one in an unheated garage. The engine exposed to wind will cool off at a faster rate, no question. But after several hours of being outside they're both at the same temp, the ambient temp. An engine can't get colder than ambient.
The only small issue is if you've plugged in a block heater. You're trying to raise the engine temp above ambient, so the car parked outside in the wind will not warm to the same temp as the one in the garage. But otherwise, windchill for vehicles don't matter.
My 04 Camry V6 is speced for 5W-30. I use 0W-30 Mobil I in the summer and 0W-20 in the winter. Go for it.
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