Step up to 5w-40 or 10w-40 for summertime?

[Lockasiam]

3.8 Chrysler engine. Went up from 5w20 to 5w30 last fall and consumption slowed by a bit. WS thinking for the rest of the summer running a 40 weight next change (for wear and consumption), full synthetic preferred or if I should stick to a full syn 30 grade. I know this engine isn’t picky and the oil will be out before Indiana winter sets back in

 

[Lockasiam]

There really are very few choices for a full synthetic 10w40. Why is this grade disappearing?

 

[Lockasiam]

I was considering this, likely paired with the usual ST16 white can filter unless there’s an obviously better option

 

[facility1]

try a good 5w-30 high milage oil like what you may find at walmart or Valvoline restore and protect ,look over other posts on this site for info if this helps.

 

[Lockasiam]

try a good 5w-30 high milage oil like what you may find at walmart or Valvoline restore and protect ,look over other posts on this site for info if this helps.

I’ve heard mixed opinions on higher weights in the van, most competent people seemed satisfied with the 40 weight in their 3.8 while the people dissatisfied lived in cold areas or were trying to use it as a miracle cure for rod knock… so I guess I answered my own question. 3.8 needs a 30 weight at minimum though

 

[skyactiv]

There really are very few choices for a full synthetic 10w40. Why is this grade disappearing?

10W40 has far fewer people buying/seeking that viscosity and shelf space in retail stores has to cover a wider range of viscosities that weren't around 30 years ago. That along with fewer people changing their own oil.

Modern 0W40 oils marketed with Euro approvals like Mobil1 has a NOACK number reportedly of 8.8% which is better than many 5W30 synthetics. It would seem like a good 0W40 would work year round. Don't expect a miracle for something with high miles and/or doesn't have the best engineering.

Some 10W30 synthetics years ago had a steeler low NOACK number. I'd be interested in the NOACK of PUP 10W30.

 

[4WD]

I’ve heard mixed opinions on higher weights in the van, most competent people seemed satisfied with the 40 weight in their 3.8 while the people dissatisfied lived in cold areas or were trying to use it as a miracle cure for rod knock… so I guess I answered my own question. 3.8 needs a 30 weight at minimum though

You could likely run Mobil 1 0W40 year round - or was there some other reason to consider HM? (seal leaks etc) …

 

[ka9mnx]

Mobil1 Euro FS 0w-40 would be (is) my choice year round.

EDIT: M1 ESP 0w-30 is another choice.

 

[nbpt100]

I would think a HM oil would be your choice if consumption is your main concern. I can no longer find SAE40 which I use in some small engines in a retail store.

 

[dnewton3]

What I don't understand about these types of threads is the underlying intent, relative to the root of the problem ...

What's happening in the OP's engine that is inducing this oil consumption?
- is there a problem unique to this one engine?
- is there a trait of consumption which is common in these engines?
- is the oil consumption rate "normal" for these engines and the OP is just overly sensitive ?
- etc ...

Using a thicker lube may slow consumption a bit, but if it's a mechanical problem, it's likely to continue to get worse. Using a thicker lube won't stop the issue; it will only subdue the perception of the problem, whilst it continues to occur (and maybe get worse).

I'm not saying it's wrong to use a thicker lube; that's not my point. I just don't understand why folks think using a thicker lube stops the root cause of consumption. Certainly, using a lube with a better (lower) NOACK rating can help reduce consumption, but what potential problem are you ignoring by doing so?

Example ...
Honda J35 engines with the VCM. It's pretty well established that the rings will eventually clog/coke up and the use of oil will rise parabolically as the miles increase. Using a "thicker" oil may mask the problem for a while, but the root cause isn't going away, and in fact will get worse. The real solution is to use a lube with a very robust cleaning add-pack or ester cleaning base (HPL; VRP; ARX; etc ...) and see if the rings can be liberated.

 

[shortyb]

@dnewton3 hit the nail on the head. Seems you are trying to band-aid the consumtion issue with oil, rather than addressing the mechanical cause of it. While that may "work", and not have you expend lots of effort/money chasing/fixing the issue, have you thought about doing the Valvoline Restore and Protect regimen that EVERYONE seems to be doing? It's simply oil, but may solve the root cause of your mechanical issue such as carboned/stuck piston rings. I'd try that first before throwing a bunch of higher viscosity oils at it hoping something sticks.

 

[Lockasiam]

Thanks for the input guys, would a piston soak be the preferred first thing to do then and if so what product

 

[dnewton3]

I am not a fan of quick fixes. These flush/soak agents are very harsh and have the risk of releasing large amounts of sludge into the oil pan (to be picked up by the pump) in a short time frame.

Slow, methodical remedies are preferred. Multiple OCIs with a high quality lube with proven cleaning abilities.
- any HPL oil
- VRP
- Amsoil S/S
- a grp III with ARX added
These will slowly dissolve the potential sludge/contamination and allow the filter to catch the debris.

 

[userfriendly]

There really are very few choices for a full synthetic 10w40. Why is this grade disappearing?

In your case you don’t need a synthetic. Walmart 10w40 ST is good enough for an experiment and the price is right.

 

[perkz]

There really are very few choices for a full synthetic 10w40. Why is this grade disappearing?

I think the 5w40 Euro oils give the same performance at high temps and better and low temps. Just look at the 100 C specs.