Is there an PCMO that you said you'd never buy again.

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Many years ago, I was given a gallon of Vulcan 15W-40 motor oil, made in the Middle East. It had been used in a photo shoot for advertisements, and the photographer didn't have any use for it. Never heard of that brand before, but it was free oil. I ran it in my 1998 CRV. No problems for 2800 miles, but the engine developed bent valves thereafter. Got a cylinder head job to fix it. It may have been coincidence, but maybe the oil had something to do with it. Timing belt was fine, it didn't get changed when the head was done. New Shell oil after the head was reinstalled, never had another problem with the valves thereafter.
 
I was not impressed with Mobil 1. In 2013 I got my first new car and thought Mobil 1 was one of the best choices for oil. It specd 0W20 so I used Mobil 1 EP. it made the worst noise I have ever heard at startup at -22*F Havoline was a solid second. Pennzoil and Castrol never made any noise so I have been using that ever since.
 
I had a weird experience with Castrol Edge in my old '03 Corolla. It caused some light varnish, which really surprised me. The next OCI, I put in Schaeffer 9000 and by the end of it, the varnish was gone. Very strange indeed, I know Castrol is good stuff but I won't likely buy because of that.
 
I had a weird experience with Castrol Edge in my old '03 Corolla. It caused some light varnish, which really surprised me. The next OCI, I put in Schaeffer 9000 and by the end of it, the varnish was gone. Very strange indeed, I know Castrol is good stuff but I won't likely buy because of that.
I had a weird experience with Syntec years ago. Did an oil change with it in my 98 3000GT. Made the lifters tick so bad and loud that it freaked me out! Cold starts were the worst. The engine literally sounded like it had no oil in it. Went back to dino and all was smooth and quiet again. Maybe that engine just didn’t “like” synthetic? Who knows!
 
I guess I don't buy the local Fleet Farm (big box farm and fleet store) brand called Resolut.
I did once buy a quart of the Resolut Type F ATF as I was draining and filling the hydro on my lawn tractor and wanted a cheap "final rinse" before installing the new. I switched it from Type F to low vis hygard.
 
Amsoil. I ran it two different cars 15 years ago. Valve train noise was too loud for my comfort. I went back to QS at the next oil change. Valve train noise vanished.
 
Years ago I rebuilt an engine for a guy that used Pennzoil. He did say it had been 11K miles since he changed oil. But that engine was completely sludged up. I had to literally scrape 3" of sludge out of the oil pan.

I never used Pennzoil after that until I came on this forum. PPPP and PUP was the nectar of the gods a few years ago. Ive been using it every since in a vehicle I had at that time and a newer vehicle we have since bought. Seems to be working good.
BTW my OCI on that first vehicle is 10K.....lol I guess Pennzoil has improved since the early 90's.
 
I don't think I've ever said that, but my old man swore he'd never use Quaker State. I had no prob with it.

I used supertech conventional 5w20 on my then-wife's 2010 Rav4 one time for 5000 miles and there were visible black sludgy deposits on the inside of the oil filter housing. Not a lot of them, but enough. I swore never again. I went back to group III synthetics.
 
I don't think I've ever said that, but my old man swore he'd never use Quaker State. I had no prob with it.
The Quaker State issue probably came from the 70's and 80's, the story is, quite a few engines were pulled apart with excessive sludge after using QS. I'm not sure how much was rumor, but many techs had the same story.
 
Amsoil. I ran it two different cars 15 years ago. Valve train noise was too loud for my comfort. I went back to QS at the next oil change. Valve train noise vanished.
Was the QS you went back to synthetic or dino?
 
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